Another newbie asking for advise....please

[rtfoe]

The guys are right Stu, some of the things we do in weathering now are just the same as when we were doing ages ago. They now just come in bottled packages for the quick and easy learners but I bet you if you develop your own method and concoction is so much more fun. Yes the number one must is have fun. So don't be afraid to experiment and find your own way to apply a method of your own. Example a wash mix everybody seems to say is 10% paint to 90% thinner but you might find it more comfortable with 10.1% paint to 89.9% thinner. Whichever suites you.

It's also comforting to see someone applying weathering methods with a paintbrush and simple strokes. I know many think they have two left hands and we also assume that everyone can just pick up a brush and paint. Take a look at Michael Rinaldi's weathering on Youtube. He does it with brush and oils panel by panel...nothing fancy.

Cheers,
Richard

[Stubod]

OK, so my acrylics have arrived....I will do some googling as I have only used Humbrol enamels before....should acrylics be "watered down" before use...or do I need to get some thinners?

[Guest]

OK, so my acrylics have arrived....I will do some googling as I have only used Humbrol enamels before....should acrylics be "watered down" before use...or do I need to get some thinners?

Speaking as a Vallejo user, I would suggest thinning model color with water is fine for brushing. No need to thin model air.
For airbrushing you might want to thin (I do) and I would suggest sticking with branded thinners. I recently started to use flow improver instead of thinners which works better.
I have found that vallejo thinners work well with humbrol acrylics for airbrushing.

The problem is that thinning and ratios depends very much on your setup, so trial and error and making small adjustments will get you there.

[Dave Ward]

OK, so my acrylics have arrived....I will do some googling as I have only used Humbrol enamels before....should acrylics be "watered down" before use...or do I need to get some thinners?

Stu,
before you get to actually applying paint - it can be helpful if you wash the plastic surface ( with soapy water ) & dry - this should remove any surface grease ( from your hands etc ), which could cause adhesion problems - this is the same for acrylics, or enamels. If a sprue feels particularly greasy - I dunk the whole lot in the sink with warm soapy water, rinse & air dry before taking any bits off, not only paint adhesion can be improved, but gluing as well. With some of the older models, especially the old Eastern Europe variety, I used an uktrasonic bath to get them really clean ( OK, a bit OOT! )
Dave

[Stubod]

Hi Dave, and many thanks for the top tip, I will wash the sprues first!! I will ask er indoors if I can borrow the hairdrier!!

I am hoping I can find something to practice painting on first....

[Guest]

I have ordered a few basic tools as well.

Whatever you do, invest in good-quality basic tools: knife (and spare blades), tweezers (both pointed and flat or rounded), a cutter (for removing parts from sprues) and a set of modelling files will get you a long way and last almost forever.

However, don’t make the mistake of thinking that good, expensive or exotic tools will make a good modeller. There are all kinds of additional tools you could buy, but most are only useful if you actually know you’ll use them. Stuff like punch-and-die sets, grab handle makers, photo-etch folding tools and rolling aids, seam scrapers, choppers, and all kinds of other stuff is out there, but you don’t need most of them — certainly not if you’re only just beginning to build models straight from the box. It helps to be aware they exist, so when you figure out that your current method is cumbersome, you may buy a tool to do it more easily. For example, if you find you regularly have to cut dozens of bits of plastic strip all to the same length, and are struggling to get them exactly the same by hand, a copper tool may be a good purchase for you. But until then?

[Stubod]

Hi Jakko, I found a basic set on Amazon for around £12 on Amazon that arrived today and seem pretty good (certainly good enough for me), includes cutter, knife, one file+ a couple of sanding boards, and 2 tweezers....hopefully enough to get me started.

[Guest]

That’s good advice re: tools.

You’ll realise quickly EXACTLY the tools you need once you get started, the. you’ll be able to make sure you only buy what you’ll need.

[Guest]

Hi Jakko, I found a basic set on Amazon for around £12 on Amazon that arrived today and seem pretty good (certainly good enough for me), includes cutter, knife, one file+ a couple of sanding boards, and 2 tweezers....hopefully enough to get me started.

11PCS Gundam Modeler Basic Tools? Regardless, it sounds like you’ve got most of the bases covered by what you say is in it.

[Gern]

Hi Dave, and many thanks for the top tip, I will wash the sprues first!! I will ask er indoors if I can borrow the hairdrier!!

I am hoping I can find something to practice painting on first....

Old plastic pop bottles and food containers make excellent practise objects - and they're free! It's worth your while to get them clean first though as that will give you a better indication of how well the paint sticks and the finish you get.

[Stubod]

Hi, I got the 8 piece Gundam toolkit as it seemed to have everything I thought I might need, also got a (cheap) 6 piece brush set, 6 Different Sizes: Artist brushes set includes 6 types for different styles,Size: 5/0, 2, 6, 1/4, 8, 3/4 .......hope they will be OK, but cheap enough at under fiver, so may need to buy another set at some point.

Not sure whether I need one of the "fine" triangular handle brushes???...but will see how I get on once I start messing things up good and proper!!

[Tim Marlow]

Plastic cutlery is also useful for spray practice. The shapes and edges help develop trigger control.

[Tim Marlow]

Sounds like the brush set is a good starter. When you clean them rinse them well, then swirl them on a bar of soap to get a lather. Once you’ve done that, rinse them well under the cold tap, remove excess water and restore the point, then store them in the brush protectors (clear tube) they came with until next use. They should do a good few models for you then. When they start to get tired ask again and we can point you at better quality replacements that will last longer.

[Del640]

The only expense on a basic modelling tool for me was a Swann Morton scalpel knife.

Absolutely sublime.

Not such a shoddy price either!

Del

[Tim Marlow]

Completely agree Del, they eat all modelling knives for breakfast! I acquired about half a dozen handles when the safety elves at work said we had to get rid of them and replace them with safety knives.....I use all sorts of blades, but 15a and 11are my favourites. I have two retractable handles that hold these and keep them pristine. That’s only an advanced purchase though. A number three handle and a pack of 11s will get you a long way. Worth spending a couple of pounds on a used blade remover/bin as well.