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Tow cables ...sorry dad.

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  • David Lovell
    SMF Supporters
    • Apr 2018
    • 2186

    #1

    Tow cables ...sorry dad.

    Thoes that saw the the KV2 build will know I still had the tow cables to go ,these aren't supplied in the kit they recommend using cord wich is pretty naff all hairy so was going to do some skip diving at work this only produced single strand wire so forgot about it. Now SHIMBO wanted a reworking of the back court yard so whilst ripping out putting back we had to move the fountain a bit like a jardinare? with a chrome ball in the top wich the water bubbled out of the top ran down the sides through some pebbles and cycled back through again ,this was bought to remember my late dad(passed away about fifteen and a half years ago)sorry to say it hasent even been switched on for a few years we cut the electric cable :sleeping2: it was then I had the eureka moment :surprised:and pulled up about three foot of it.
    Stripping some off found it to be just the stuff for 35ers way to heavy for 72nd so stripped off six strands put one end in a pin vice drill held the other in a pair of pliers and under tension twisted it up good stuff a little thin maybe but having to drill out the loop ends dictated size as well.
    Click image for larger version

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    There be ok with a coat of paint im sure . As for the fountain chrome ball and pump etc gone the thing now houses a rose bush so sorry dad but your never forgotten. Dave
  • Airborne01
    • Mar 2021
    • 3964
    • Steve
    • Essex

    #2
    Dave,
    I often use good quality rigging cord from model ship suppliers; there is a range of sizes/diameters, it's inexpensive, and doesn't go 'hairy' when painted or washed. The black and dark brown cord is particularly effective with some (old school) dry brushing! I also find whipping twine to work well - especially the non-waxed types. My problem with using copper and other soft metals is that the 'lay' does not often appear correct and doesn't take paint well. I have used a mini-version of a traditional rope walk with 'travellers' and spinning heads etc but they tend to require a disproportionate amount of effort and well-researched, appropriately sized threads to produce a relatively short tow cable. I don't know if you agree but sometimes kit-supplied metal cables are not particularly realistic, and don't conform to the stowage requirements of the vehicle portrayed.

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    • JR
      • May 2015
      • 18273

      #3
      Originally posted by Airborne01
      Dave,
      I often use good quality rigging cord from model ship suppliers; there is a range of sizes/diameters, it's inexpensive, and doesn't go 'hairy' when painted or washed. The black and dark brown cord is particularly effective with some (old school) dry brushing! I also find whipping twine to work well - especially the non-waxed types. My problem with using copper and other soft metals is that the 'lay' does not often appear correct and doesn't take paint well. I have used a mini-version of a traditional rope walk with 'travellers' and spinning heads etc but they tend to require a disproportionate amount of effort and well-researched, appropriately sized threads to produce a relatively short tow cable. I don't know if you agree but sometimes kit-supplied metal cables are not particularly realistic, and don't conform to the stowage requirements of the vehicle portrayed.
      Very true about the kit supplied cables Steve.

      Comment

      • Jim R
        SMF Supporters
        • Apr 2018
        • 15679
        • Jim
        • Shropshire

        #4
        Hi David
        Well found. Us modellers really are good at finding uses for all sorts of stuff.
        Steve's idea of using rigging cord sounds worth remembering.
        Jim

        Comment

        • David Lovell
          SMF Supporters
          • Apr 2018
          • 2186

          #5
          Originally posted by Airborne01
          Dave,
          I often use good quality rigging cord from model ship suppliers; there is a range of sizes/diameters, it's inexpensive, and doesn't go 'hairy' when painted or washed. The black and dark brown cord is particularly effective with some (old school) dry brushing! I also find whipping twine to work well - especially the non-waxed types. My problem with using copper and other soft metals is that the 'lay' does not often appear correct and doesn't take paint well. I have used a mini-version of a traditional rope walk with 'travellers' and spinning heads etc but they tend to require a disproportionate amount of effort and well-researched, appropriately sized threads to produce a relatively short tow cable. I don't know if you agree but sometimes kit-supplied metal cables are not particularly realistic, and don't conform to the stowage requirements of the vehicle portrayed.
          Hi Steve I'll have to have a mooch on the net do you purchase it by diameter, its not uncommon with the Ukrainian manufacturers to have to supply your own though they do kindly supply a diameter. Never forget the first one I built you had to supply your own brass rod for the axels ,thanks for the heads up will keep informed with outcome. Dave

          Comment

          • Airborne01
            • Mar 2021
            • 3964
            • Steve
            • Essex

            #6
            Dave,
            As I recall I googled 'x diameter rigging thread ..,' and a West Country retailer popped up. I can't recall the name because I bought shed loads at various diameters but ' The truth is out there ... '.

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