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Another thing that may help is to use a tiny bit of PVA glue,or even spit,to hold the part in place before applying the CA.
Jon.Comment
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If you do use a fibre pen use it wet! I always dip the fibre pen in a saucer of dilute washing up liquid before use. It stops the fibres flying. I would still wear a mask though, the fibres are horrible. I would also cover my worktable with a sheet of news to aid clean up.
I don’t do much etch these days, but when I did I mostly soldered it. Obviously this is only any good when sticking etch to etch
For fitting etch to plastic small bits get superglued, and large bits get stuck on with epoxy, usually held in place while it dries with tacks of superglue.Comment
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Forgot to say, when using superglue I always put a scrap of double sided tape on a block, leaving the waxed paper on it. Drop the superglue on it and it remains workable for ages if you transfer the glue to the joint with a pin.Comment
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What a great day on the forum….I was earlier told I was right, and now I’ve been accused of genius. Would that all days were like this LOLComment
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Cripes I'm a slob never washed photo etch or kit parts let alone all this ruffing up the surfaces stuff but hey work's for me ,but for what its worth I use two of the super glues from Deluxe the yellow labled one gives five to ten seconds grace the blue lable a gel one ten to twenty plenty of fiddle time ,I also find its easier to put a tiny dot on the kit where the peice is to be fitted this I'll do with old scaple blades ,cocktail sticks ,piece of old sprue sharpened to a point ,syringe needles (also good for drilling out small barrels or use as a bradle to make sure you start drilling in the right place)old airbrush needles loads of stuff you can use as a aplicator. I'm with Steve with the lid thing bisto lids as Steve said pringles lids the good thing is when there's no space left flex the lid all the hard bits of glue just pop off leaving you to start again. Just remember less is more a small dot glues as good as a blob ,that's like me but with a s. DaveComment
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All covered above but to hold some really small parts is have them on a bit if blu tac on a tooth pick. To stop shacky hands try as much to tack the parts down with tape or a pair of extra hand clips then apply the CA carefully not touching the tape or blu tac.
Cheers,
RichardComment
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For some parts on AFVs, eg tool clamps and mesh, I use an AK chemical that blackens the brass; that way interior surfaces of the clamps, or chips and scratches acquire a 'natural' appearance without too much work!
SteveComment
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Some great advice there guys, thank you.
I will take all of what has been said on board for my own modelling as well.Strength isn't about what you can do, rather it's about overcoming what you thought you couldn't do.Comment
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Indeed lots to think about!!
Ian's point about keeping it in the fridge is well made....I heard it a while ago...I think on here and it does seem to keep much better.... At least in my experience!Comment
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I just use sandpaper or a diamond file. You can just carefully sand the whole side of a sheet of etched brass, before removing any parts from it, but only do that if you’re sure that that side is the one that (nearly) all parts will be glued on. Reading Steve’s comments makes me think I don’t want to use a fibre-glass pen at all
But also makes the bond weaker, because it prevents the glue from forming very long polymers. Breathing on superglue has much the same effect, though not as quickly: superglue sets through the action of water vapour in the air, so if you breathe out onto drying superglue, you speed up its setting. But again, this weakens the bond compared to letting it dry normally.Comment
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