Etch Help please.....

[Ian M]

One of the best things I have found those fiber pencils for is removing glue marks... after having brushed my hand over the work top to move the junk heap after a clean up. I found out the BEST thing is to let it stay in the tool box!

[minitnkr]

CA works fine for me. I use the thicker type that gives more work time & will fill small gaps. I also have 'kicker' to cure it immediately, but seldom need it. Works metal/plastic & metal/metal.

[Jim R]

Hi Andy
PE can be extremely time consuming and frustrating. I find that having a dictionary of swear words and a bin handy is a great help regardless of what glue you use! :rolling:
Jim

[JR]

I just use sandpaper or a diamond file. You can just carefully sand the whole side of a sheet of etched brass, before removing any parts from it, but only do that if you’re sure that that side is the one that (nearly) all parts will be glued on. Reading Steve’s comments makes me think I don’t want to use a fibre-glass pen at all :smiling3:


But also makes the bond weaker, because it prevents the glue from forming very long polymers. Breathing on superglue has much the same effect, though not as quickly: superglue sets through the action of water vapour in the air, so if you breathe out onto drying superglue, you speed up its setting. But again, this weakens the bond compared to letting it dry normally.

Used the activator for years before I returned to modelling, it was the go to thing to use after fixing a cornice in Kitchens and Bedrooms, never had any problems with it being weaker , also used it it in joinery with out any mishaps. If it makes the bond weaker why recommend it, it would soon be with drawn if professional users complained .


Cyanoacrylate (CA glue) is made out of 91% ethyl 2-cyanoacrylate (ECA), 9% polymethacrylate, <0.5% hydroquinone, and a hint of natural sulfonic corrosive. More tender pastes are usually nearer to 100% unadulterated ECA.

CA glue is reactive, which is the reason the stabilizer remains in a fluid state. It sticks the second that moisture deactivates its stabilizers, and the bond starts to polymerize in lasting security.

The bonding reaction is consolidated by a water fume on the outside of two substrates. The quicker the glue is caught between these two surfaces, the faster it activates. The equivalent goes for moisture – the more damp the substrate is, the quicker the super glue will activate it.

Since curing begins at the surface and moves toward the middle, thick creases or huge dabs of the paste may solidify gradually or not in any way. Maintain a strategic distance from wrinkles thicker than.25mm if you need protected security.

CA glue’s quickening agents are ordinarily CH3)2CO based, utilizing CH3)2CO is the essential dissipating specialist. This implies that once applied, the CH3)2CO vanishes leaving a functioning quicke

[Tim Marlow]

Wow, every day is a school day John……I thought it set in the absence of air and the presence of moisture. Perhaps I’ve confused it with locktite bearing retainer? I’m also surprised it’s used that much use in kitchen fitting to be honest. My experience is that CA doesn’t have much in the way of sheer strength, unlike alternatives such as epoxy.

[Isitme]

Hello Andy,
Etch - the bane of many a poor life....
When I start work with etch the first thing after removing it from the packaging is to turn it over and gently sand the back side with some 600 wet n dry, this entails stroking the 600 across the brass, although larger bits can be sanded by rubbing. The idea is to score the brass so that the c/a (superglue) will have something to key onto.
C/a (superglue) I use a mix of DeLuxe materials Rocket thin and medium, mixed 50/50 from each bottle which I find gives me the time to locate and hold in place. For an applicator I use a standard sewing needle with the tip sanded into a chisel shape and for the 'holder I drill a hole into an old wooden clothes peg half and c/a the pin into this. When you have glued a piece wipe of the excess from the pin onto tissue, and to clean the pin I scrape the old c/a off with a knife blade and reshape on wet n dry. If yo find you have put too much c/a onto your piece, just remove the c/a by gently dabbing it with a bit of toilet roll tissue.
Hope this helps. Mike.

[scottie3158]

Hello mate,
First I always wash carefully with some soapy water and dry. Then as Mike has said roughen the surface, I also for large pieces lightly scratch both the PE and the plastic with the tip of a sharp blade. Next is to study the part carefully and work out how it should look when done and a logical folding sequence. A normal rule of thumb is to fold towards the mark on the etch if that makes sense. And finally and most importantly don't just use the etch because it is there a lot of times the kit part or a scratched alternative are better as PE is 2 dimensional. for example tie downs and handles are better made from wire. HTH.

[Isitme]

Hello mate,
First I always wash carefully with some soapy water and dry. Then as Mike has said roughen the surface, I also for large pieces lightly scratch both the PE and the plastic with the tip of a sharp blade. Next is to study the part carefully and work out how it should look when done and a logical folding sequence. A normal rule of thumb is to fold towards the mark on the etch if that makes sense. And finally and most importantly don't just use the etch because it is there a lot of times the kit part or a scratched alternative are better as PE is 2 dimensional. for example tie downs and handles are better made from wire. HTH.

Fully agree, except for the part about washing in soapy water, I like a good shower:tears-of-joy: - ok time to get my coat.....

[The Smythe Meister]

Used the activator for years before I returned to modelling, it was the go to thing to use after fixing a cornice in Kitchens and Bedrooms, never had any problems with it being weaker , also used it it in joinery with out any mishaps. If it makes the bond weaker why recommend it, it would soon be with drawn if professional users complained .


Cyanoacrylate (CA glue) is made out of 91% ethyl 2-cyanoacrylate (ECA), 9% polymethacrylate, <0.5% hydroquinone, and a hint of natural sulfonic corrosive. More tender pastes are usually nearer to 100% unadulterated ECA.

CA glue is reactive, which is the reason the stabilizer remains in a fluid state. It sticks the second that moisture deactivates its stabilizers, and the bond starts to polymerize in lasting security.

The bonding reaction is consolidated by a water fume on the outside of two substrates. The quicker the glue is caught between these two surfaces, the faster it activates. The equivalent goes for moisture – the more damp the substrate is, the quicker the super glue will activate it.

Since curing begins at the surface and moves toward the middle, thick creases or huge dabs of the paste may solidify gradually or not in any way. Maintain a strategic distance from wrinkles thicker than.25mm if you need protected security.

CA glue’s quickening agents are ordinarily CH3)2CO based, utilizing CH3)2CO is the essential dissipating specialist. This implies that once applied, the CH3)2CO vanishes leaving a functioning quicke

Erm.... You lost me at "Used the activator" !!

[Jim R]

...... gently sand the back side with some 600 wet n dry,

Isn't that rather painful. :rolling:

[adt70hk]

Used the activator for years before I returned to modelling, it was the go to thing to use after fixing a cornice in Kitchens and Bedrooms, never had any problems with it being weaker , also used it it in joinery with out any mishaps. If it makes the bond weaker why recommend it, it would soon be with drawn if professional users complained .


Cyanoacrylate (CA glue) is made out of 91% ethyl 2-cyanoacrylate (ECA), 9% polymethacrylate, <0.5% hydroquinone, and a hint of natural sulfonic corrosive. More tender pastes are usually nearer to 100% unadulterated ECA.

CA glue is reactive, which is the reason the stabilizer remains in a fluid state. It sticks the second that moisture deactivates its stabilizers, and the bond starts to polymerize in lasting security.

The bonding reaction is consolidated by a water fume on the outside of two substrates. The quicker the glue is caught between these two surfaces, the faster it activates. The equivalent goes for moisture – the more damp the substrate is, the quicker the super glue will activate it.

Since curing begins at the surface and moves toward the middle, thick creases or huge dabs of the paste may solidify gradually or not in any way. Maintain a strategic distance from wrinkles thicker than.25mm if you need protected security.

CA glue’s quickening agents are ordinarily CH3)2CO based, utilizing CH3)2CO is the essential dissipating specialist. This implies that once applied, the CH3)2CO vanishes leaving a functioning quicke

Thanks John for the info.... Not that I understood most of it to my shame...... Will have a proper read through again when I get a moment.

[JR]

Wow, every day is a school day John……I thought it set in the absence of air and the presence of moisture. Perhaps I’ve confused it with locktite bearing retainer? I’m also surprised it’s used that much use in kitchen fitting to be honest. My experience is that CA doesn’t have much in the way of sheer strength, unlike alternatives such as epoxy.

Used for none load bearing jobs Tim, such as the corners on mouldings because of the speed it sets at. Don't know anything about Locktite.

[rtfoe]

Well CA works on tensil strength so its not easy to pull apart but the joint can easily be separated if twisted. Very good for closing wounds that don't hold together.

Cheers,
Richard

[The Smythe Meister]

Well Guys.......
What a fantastic response,thanks to ALL who made their suggestions and offered their advice:thumb2:,
I`ll be writing all hints and tips into a "Little Black Book" for reference,i think your input will also come in handy for many others on the site too...... so it`s win-win!
Cheers all,
Andy (Now setting off to Super Glue some brass to my fingers!! :tears-of-joy::tears-of-joy