Question about varnishes

[SUBSIM]

I'm getting comfortable painting my models, using an airbrush and masking off parts. I've read that after painting and applying decals, I should spray on a few coats of varnish, that locks in the color and decals? Is there any downside to doing this? Such as Vallejo Matt Model Color Varnish ?

After applying varnish, I can then use a "wash" to make the rivets and welds stand out better, right? I ordered some AK-Interactive Wash for Grey Decks Naval Ship Weathering Color and PLW Deep Grey Wash for a U-boat model. From what I've seen I apply it liberally and then blot it off with a Q-tip. Am I on the right track?

[Jim R]

Hi Neil
I think it is a good idea to add a varnish coat after putting on the decals. It protects the decals and also helps to hide the edges of the decal film. Whether gloss, Matt or satin will depend on the model and what processes you intend to do next.
Can't help with the AK wash as I've not used it.
Jim

[Dave Ward]

Neal,
I usually add a full gloss varnish coat before washes/weathering - if you make a mess of it, you have a fighting chance of being able to remove some, or all of the bad finish. When I'm satisfied, I'll seal it all in with a coat of matt/satin/gloss varnish to protect it
Dave

[Guest]

I don’t normally varnish anything unless I need to alter the shine of the model — that is, if it needs to be matt but the paint I used is gloss or semi-gloss, I put on a coat of matt varnish.

As for washes, it depends a lot on what you use. Pre-mixed washes are often very strong, in my experience, but you can also make your own by thinning paint very heavily (and, of course you can thin pre-mixed washes too). Just put a few brushfulls of paint onto a palette of some kind (a lid from a jar will do), add at least as much water and thoroughly mix the two. This assumes you’re using water- or alcohol-based acrylic paints, of course; with other types, you need to use thinner instead of water, but will have to be careful that the thinner won’t affect the paint that’s already on the model.

Regardless of which you use, it’s best to test it out first on a part of the model that won’t be in view. This is easy if you’re building things like tanks: just use the bottom. For ships, it will be a bit harder to find a spot where you can test it without being visible, I suppose. In any case, if the wash seems to cover the paint underneath completely, add some water to it with your brush, straight on the model (and, if you made your own wash, to the what’s still on your palette). On the other hand, if it doesn’t cover enough, let it dry on the model while you add a little more paint to the mixture on your palette, then just go over it again with the thicker wash.

[rtfoe]

If you don't want thinners reacting or lifting off the base paint when doing a paint wash then a layer of acrylic varnish will help protect it. The layer of varnish also helps flatten the decal film on your painted surface to a certain degree so you see less of it.

Cheers,
Richard.

[Tim Marlow]

There are almost as many ways of doing this as there are modellers Neal. A coat of gloss acrylic varnish before adding decals is usually a good idea. It protects the paint from further handling damage, and seals the surface as Richard says. It also allows decals to bed down better with less chance of trapping air and causing silvering. I would also spray over the decals when they are dry and you are happy with them because, again as Richard says, it beds in the edges and protects them from future stages. I find there is another bonus to this approach as well. Most modellers get issues with matt varnish clouding or going white at some time, and the previous gloss coat, if properly dried, seems to eliminate this, at least in my experience.

As to washes, well I use them a lot, especially on small scale figures. My current favourites are the Game wash line from Vallejo. They flow well, are very easy to mix to vary the colours, and unlike some acrylic ranges they don’t dry too quickly. When they dry the edges feather out really well so they do not tend to leave coffee stain rings around things.
I have also used oil paint washes made from artists oils and Sansodor thinner, and some from the AK line. The oil washes are the most flexible of all because they are able to be moved around and removed easily until you are happy with the result. They are also great for streaking, but they do take a long time to dry.
The AK stuff I have found OK when you first open them but it does seem to go off quite quickly. And, being enamel based they do smell quite a bit. You can make your own from paint and thinner, as suggested by Jakko, but in my experience you also need to add a little flow aid to home made acrylic washes break down surface tension in the water.
Lastly, when you come to use washes, don just slap them on all over. Try to use a fine brush and just touch the edges of what you are trying to define. Going over things twice is better when you are learning what works for you. This will also minimise the unsightly coffee staining effect you can get from all over washes. After a while you will instinctively know how much to add, but it’s better to err on the side of caution in your first attempts.

[stillp]

I usually use a gloss varnish before applying decals, then a matt varnish when I've finished decalling and any washes. Sometimes I've use pigments on top of matt varnish.
Pete

[Panzerwrecker]

A varnish coat seals in all previous layers and modellers use varnish coats for different reasons. Without opening the 'should you gloss before and after decals debate' one thing to be mindful of is, you are essentially laying down another coat so the more you put down the more you hide. As for after paint and decals, then yes, it can aid blending in decals to the surface and protects them from further weathering. It will also aid in applying pin washes as a shiny surface will break any surface tension and allow the oil/enamel/acrylic to flow much better. Although you can add pin washes to a matt surface, application needs to be more precise and clean-up is more difficult, as the wash can 'stain' the underlying paint surface.

Many modellers add a little varnish to their final base coats to avoid adding one before laying down decals. In my experience this works extremely well with Tamiya paints.

As for a wash application I would try and work in small areas with a fine brush. If the surface is shiny, capillary action will let the wash medium flow into all the small nooks and crannies for you. As for clean-up, different mediums require different methods. Acrylics dry quickly so clean-up needs to be almost immediate. Enamels can be cleaned with white Spirit, Turps or thinners and clean-up is usually carried out after completing a small section of the model. You can leave oils for days should you wish, as they have an added benefit of being able to be blended into the surface which creates an altogether different effect.

[SUBSIM]

Ok, thanks so much for the useful help. So, first I paint the model with acrylic paints, apply decals.

Then I will coat the model with gloss varnish, like Mr. Super Clear Gloss Spray or Tamiya USA TAM85013 Spray Lacquer TS-13 Clear, for example,
then add the enamel wash for effect, clean it up, then top it off with a matte varnish.

[Tim Marlow]

Ok, thanks so much for the useful help. So, first I paint the model with acrylic paints, apply decals.

Then I will coat the model with gloss varnish, like Mr. Super Clear Gloss Spray or Tamiya USA TAM85013 Spray Lacquer TS-13 Clear, for example,
then add the enamel wash for effect, clean it up, then top it off with a matte varnish.

Sounds like a plan Neal :thumb2:

[rtfoe]

Neal, if the coat of acrylic paints is smooth and with a drop of gloss before application of the decals then should be fine but to avoid silvering I'd still gloss the surface. Do not try to decal on a matt surface...either the decals will have a hard time sticking or you will get silvering of the carrier film.
Sounds a bit if a chore but after a few kits it becomes second nature or a habit.

Cheers,
Richard