Decent modelling tools.

[Roadie]

At the moment I seem to be crawling around the floor lock for components that have jumped out my tweezers or cutters. Even found parts in a different room where part has landed on dog who then clears off.
So can you guys recommend good tools that parts won’t jump out of, or modifications to tools that keeps hold of the little parts that don’t want glueing.
Also another tools that you have found useful
Secondly I’m doing a model that has PE parts involved but no alternative, what glue is best and how to stop them breaking all on folding lines.
Thanks Steve

[The Smythe Meister]

I'd love to help with this one Steve...... And I'm sure that EVERYONE on the site wish they could too....
...... after all,if we could,then at least one of would be millionaire !!!
I'm afraid that,apart from the occasional,"cleverdick" suggestion,(which will work for a while,and then retire from the fray !!),it goes with the territory and crawling around on your knees,only to wonder days later,"how the hell did that end up there?!" is just as part of the hobby as is sanding,gluing etc!!!
Andy

[stillp]

A cocktail stick with a bit of blue-tack on the end is good for holding small parts. Cheap too!
Pete

[rtfoe]

We have all been on bended knee whenever a part goes "plinggg" but a blutac tipped toothpick for small parts is one way to prevent that as has been suggested.
Have you ever chased a pet for your kit part...I have. :smiling6:

Cheers,
Richard

[Jim R]

Hi Steve

Secondly I’m doing a model that has PE parts involved but no alternative, what glue is best and how to stop them breaking all on folding lines.

Most of the time PE is fixed with CA glue (super glue). Rough up/clean the brass to help the glue to stick. Gel CA give a little more wriggle time to position the part although not by much. Thin CA wicks into the join but sets very fast. I like to place the part with white glue/PVA, cleans up with water and allows time to position the part. A join with PVA will not be very strong so when the part is correctly placed wick in thin CA along the join.
Buy the best quality tweezers you can. Make certain the points line up perfectly. When holding parts don't squeeze too hard. As others have said despite everything you'll still end up crawling around the floor looking for the tiny part.
PE won't break along the fold unless it is weakened by repeated folding. Check and double check which way the folding goes so you only have to bend it once, correctly. Then you won't have to risk it snapping by unfolding and refolding.
Jim

Have you ever chased a pet for your kit part...I have. :smiling6:

Yes :tongue-out3:

[eddiesolo]

You will never, ever not loose bits...it is like taxes and death, inevitable. All you can do is damage limitation, trays, crocodile clips, white tack and cocktail sticks, in my case I just use a hammer and finish off using a roller, models look fine to me.

[PaulTRose]

best way of finding those dropped parts is to get a decent torch and go all CSI.......turn the light out and use the torch low down, even tiny bits show up

[Tim Marlow]

Plus one on the blue tack and cocktail stick. I use it all the time. The problem is actually getting the part to stay there and not come away again with the tool after you place it. Just use a very small speck, just enough to hold the part.
Never got on that well with tweezers. The problem with them is that you inevitably try to hold the part too tightly, so it then pings away. It’s counter intuitive, but the lighter you hold something with them (obviously up to a point) the better the grip is….Quality tools do help, look for jewellery tool suppliers.
The torch idea really works as well…..because you will lose parts sometimes….I lost one for a number of years once, and found it somewhere I’d looked several times…..and somebody on here looked for ages, gave up, and found the part CAd to his dog…..
As to sticking the PE on, I’m old school and use five minute epoxy where I can…….but CA and PVA also work, and I have used them both. In fact, on larger parts I’ve sometimes used epoxy for the majority of the joint, with a couple of CA spots to hold it in place while the epoxy dries.

[eddiesolo]

I will add, if you do models with a lot of small pieces invest in some watch repairers equipment, a compartment jar with clear bell lid and, if you use PE get a couple of membrane boxes, these are used to hold watch hands so are great for small PE parts. Another plus is to get the best tweezers you can get, forget the cheap ones they twist over time and that is the major cause of the dreaded 'ping'.

[Gern]

You could try fixing strips of fine sandpaper/emery cloth to the inside tips of your tweezers to give them a better grip. I've also heard of fixing pieces of sponge - ideally cut from a mouse mat. Fixing a piece of cellotape or masking tape onto the back of a PE fret will hold smaller parts as you cut them free.

Alas, none of these are foolproof. Andy and Si are right - losing parts to the carpet monster is just one part of our hobby we all have to live with.

[eddiesolo]

losing parts to the carpet monster is just one part of our hobby we all have to live with.

Alas, this be true...shakes head and sighs

[zuludog]

I'm still using some tools & tweezers that I bought & acquired when I was a teenager, and changed from making kits as toys to making them as models

I have scrounged some tools off my dentist - can you still do that? - including a good curved tweezer and a few probes

A couple of pairs from Boots - a first aid type, but I've fettled the tips to be less pointed, though still fine; and some eyebrow tweezers that have small flat pads on the end (steel of course), not just narrow flat tips

I did biology at school & university so I still have a couple of pairs of small/fine tweezers from my dissecting kit; I amuse my friends by calling them forceps

But that was years ago, and though it doesn't help you directly, it shows what I use, and might give you some ideas

I've just had a quick Search of t'Net for 'flat tipped tweezers' and there are lots of references & suppliers; mostly for eyebrows but also for placing small components in engineering & electronics

So play around with Google Search for tweezers, including flat tipped, rubber tipped, watchmakers, curved, reverse action, and so on, there are loads to choose from
Also look at suppliers of surgical & dental tools
The best watchmakers tweezers are Swiss, as you might expect, but they are also the most expensive, though if you are only buying one or two pairs it might not be so bad
Otherwise Chinese or Indian made tools would probably be OK as plastic parts won't wear the tips as much as steel components
Search YouTube for tweezers for model making, and for watch making; there are a few videos

As I've implied, feel free to fettle/modify the tips to suit yourself

As EDDIESOLO suggested, browse YouTube for repairing watches, watchmakers tools, & similar, and you will see the tools needed and in use, which might give you a few ideas

[Tworrs]

Just recently I lost yet another part to the carpet monster, and my wife suggested using a vacuum cleaner with the hose attached, and a stocking over the end held on with a rubber band.
Well I have to tell you that I managed to find parts that had been missing for a month, as well as the one that I was looking for.
It does take a bit of sorting through all the fluff that gets picked though, but emptied onto a sheet of paper makes it easier.

[SteveH]

Hi Steve
Only some suggestions from a tangential perspective.
Keep the pets away from the bench.
I have a piece of light coloured lino under the bench and extending a few feet away on all sides
Wear an apron whilst modelling as it catches all those things that you drop and loose off the bench too.
Finally and almost certain to work
Start to scratch a replacement part and you will find the lost bit just after finishing your scratchery!
HTH's?
Regards
Steve H

[rtfoe]

Finally and almost certain to work
Start to scratch a replacement part and you will find the lost bit just after finishing your scratchery!
HTH's?
Regards
Steve H

That also works with scratchbuilding an obscure subject and a new kit comes out.:confounded:

Cheers,
Richard