Removal of Shoe Goo 2 spillage

[John Smith]

Hello

Can any of you recommend a good solvent for the removal of Shoe Goo II that has set?

For example I currently have the following solvents on my shelf:

• Acetone (Also Known As: propanone or dimethyl ketone)
• IPA (AKA "Isopropyl alcohol")
• PERC / PCE (AKA "TetraChloroEthylene" or "PerChloroEthylene)",
• Toluene (AKA "toluol" or "methylbenzene")
• Xylene (AKA "xylol" or "dimethylbenzene")
• White Spirit (AKA "mineral spirits" or "mineral turpentine"
• Product "Goo Gone – Goo & Adhesive Remover" made by CC Holdings Inc

Would any of the above work on Shoe Goo 2?
Please note that I need whatever solvent I use to NOT dissolve the Natural Rubber (RL) sheet behind the spillage of Shoe Goo II.

With thanks

J

[JR]

John found this on E HOW

Shoe Goo is a versatile and effective adhesive that is typically used to rebuild worn-out soles, seal rubber shoes and boots, repair damaged heels and glue down loose insoles. When you get Shoe Goo where you don't want it, it can be complicated to remove. Shoe Goo has been formulated to remain flexible after being completely cured (24 hours after application) but it is possible to remove no matter when you notice it.

Dampen a clean dry cloth with a small amount of acetone.

Rub the acetone dampened cloth over the Shoe Goo. Wait five minutes while the acetone is absorbed by the adhesive.

Rub the shoe glue off with a paper towel. The Shoe Goo will ball up and brush off, onto the paper towel.

• Shoe Goo is a versatile and effective adhesive that is typically used to rebuild worn-out soles, seal rubber shoes and boots, repair damaged heels and glue down loose insoles.
• The Shoe Goo will ball up and brush off, onto the paper towel.

Insert the edge of a paint scraper between the spilt Shoe Goo and the surface you want to remove it from.

Gently exert pressure on the paint scrapper until the adhesive is separated from the surface, then lift up on the scrapper.

Insert the edge of a fine razor blade between any remaining Shoe Goo and the surface and gently lift away any of it remaining on the surface.
Any use ?

[John Smith]

Nice try but please note that I am using Shoe Goo II (moisture cure) and not Shoe Goo original (which cures by evaporation of solvent).

Fwiw, the model is made from an "ABS mimic" plastic that was specially vacuum formed for me by a model-maker, at no little cost! He was worried that (e.g.) Acetone might be too strong for the plastic, but said that IPA would be fine. The problem is that IPA isn't working very well at dissolving the Shoe Goo 2. Also I worry that once softened slightly by whatever solvent I use, that the remaining ShoeGoo 2 might become permanently softened...

Any further thoughts?

[Ian M]

Abs mimic plastic? Have you considered trying Tamiya's ABS glue?

[John Smith]

Abs mimic plastic? Have you considered trying Tamiya's ABS glue?

Interesting suggestion. I think I used to have some of that stuff... It's like a fairly strong solvent that dissolves the ABS and then evaporates off leaving almost a weld of plastic, yes?

My problem has been that I am bonding the ABS mimic to pretty thin (1mm thick) natural rubber sheet, that is extremely also extremely soft (40° shore), and this means all "solvent-cure" type of glues tend to almost instantly dissolve into and swell the rubber, which immediately wants to curl up!

And in my experience this swelling makes getting the rubber sheet to lie nice and flat becomes almost impossible, even if you try to work quickly and clamp the rubber flat.

e.g. I have tried using various adhesives such as Shoe Goo (original) and also E6000 (original) glue [both of which are solvent-cure adhesives, and both from Eclectic Products] and although they can both form a remarkably strong bond onto natural rubber, they both cause a painful amount of curling of the rubber, due to their high solvent content.

For this reason, I have ending up using Shoe Goo II which is a moisture cure, and which does not cause any significant curling of the rubber.

J

PS Truth to tell, after various experiments, because Shoe Goo 2's bond to rubber is not great, I am now using a very thin layer of a solvent cure adhesive (called Alpha - S1358-TF) which I paint very quickly (using a spatula) onto a pre-stretched sheet of the 1mm thick rubber and let it more or less dry. And this layer can be used as a bad for the Shoe Goo 2 to bind onto.

tldr; I am using a solvent cure adhesive to act as a primer layer for ShoeGoo2!

[JR]

Hope that works John.

[stillp]

Have you tried using cyanoacrylate?
Pete