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  • zuludog
    SMF Supporters
    • Mar 2015
    • 239

    #16
    Alright, here's what I do with sticky stuff --

    Tube glue, the traditional 'polystyrene cement' isn't a popular as it was, but I still prefer it for large joints like wing halves and wing - to - fuselage

    Liquid glue - I prefer Tamiya or Mr Hobby as -
    The bottles are squat and less likely to be knocked over
    The brushes are fine
    They don't have those irritating & fiddly tamper proof caps
    I just top them up with bulk liquid glue

    My own mixture, which is a bottle of liquid glue with a few pieces of clear sprue dissolved in it
    This makes it slightly thicker, but not as thick as tube glue; I use it for most small & medium parts
    There's no recipe, just add a few pieces of sprue till it's right for you, remembering, of course, that you can add the sprue but you can't take it out

    Canopy glue - I still have some Kristal Klear, but there are other types, or PVA wood glue

    Tube putty/filler - I still have some Squadron Green Putty, not sure what I'll use when it runs out, so any recommendations would be appreciated

    Mr Surfacer & Mr Dissolved Filler - as far as I can tell, they're more or less the same
    They are fillers, but thinner than tube putty, and you paint them on with a brush
    The problem is that just like paint, the filler will dry & harden on the brush, so there are some options -

    Clean the brush in a suitable solvent, which is fiddly
    Use a disposable brush or a cotton bud
    Use an empty liquid glue or nail varnish bottle - apply the filler with the cap brush, then return the brush to the bottle, which acts as a keeper
    Don't worry if the bottle is not absolutely clean & spotless as all these solvents can be mixed with each other

    I keep my tubes of glue & filler in a glass jar such as a tall one that has held pickles or posh jam, to reduce any drying out of the tube if the fit of the cap isn't too good.

    Comment

    • Modler bob
      SMF Supporters
      • May 2022
      • 277

      #17
      Looking at putty filler, there are a lot out there.
      So I would like a recommendation, please?
      I made a bit of a mess trying to cut a hole into both fuselage halves, for a transparent Light ( I assume?) I had to cut & file the two half holes ready to join. :flushed:
      Is water-based essential/preferred?

      Comment

      • BarryW
        SMF Supporters
        • Jul 2011
        • 6010

        #18
        We all have our favourites.

        Personally I use three types.

        Vallejo Plastic Putty. Needs to be left plenty of time to fully cure, how long depends on humidity. If it is properly cured it is hard and can easily be sanded to a feathered edge. I use this for wider gaps and where I need to build up to level up to a ridge.

        Mr Surfacer 500. This is what I use on medium gaps. It is lacquer based and very plastic like when fully dried off.

        Mr Dissolved Putty. I love this stuff and this is what I use most of the time. It is very finely pigmented and it self levels brilliantly. Great for fuselage seams, very small gaps, and most of all for smoothing a rough surface, perhaps a glue finger mark. If you have, say, a gluey finger mark, we all get them! First lightly sand it, then brush on Mr Dissolved Putty, let it cure down overnight, the carrier will evaporate leaving the fine pigment in any ‘dips’, lightly sand again and you get a beautifully smooth surface. Sometimes you need to do another application.

        It is very much horses for courses. Incidentally, I sometime combine them, perhaps finishing off with the MDP.

        Comment

        • stillp
          SMF Supporters
          • Nov 2016
          • 8091
          • Pete
          • Rugby

          #19
          I've never found Vallejo putty to be any good, however long I leave it to cure. I prefer Perfect Plastic Putty by Deluxe Materials. Like Vallejo, it can be smoothed with a wet cotton bud.
          I agree with Barry's recommendation of Mr Dissolved Putty for small gaps and sink marks.
          For bigger gaps I like Humbrol Model Filler, which sands well.
          The last two are not water based and are a bit smelly.
          Pete

          Comment

          • Tim Marlow
            SMF Supporters
            • Apr 2018
            • 18900
            • Tim
            • Somerset UK

            #20
            If the gap is relatively large I’ve been known to glue slivers of plastic card or stretched sprue in first to strengthen it.

            Comment

            • Modler bob
              SMF Supporters
              • May 2022
              • 277

              #21
              thanks guys.
              I've ordered two and will try them out....



              Comment

              • Modler bob
                SMF Supporters
                • May 2022
                • 277

                #22
                no text.

                Comment

                • Tim Marlow
                  SMF Supporters
                  • Apr 2018
                  • 18900
                  • Tim
                  • Somerset UK

                  #23
                  Originally posted by Modler bob
                  erm...I'm still abit confused with this forum.
                  I posted yesterday thanking you guys for all your info, but it doesn't show on my PC (is that the problem, my PC?)
                  I've never noticed this in any other forum I frequent :surprised:
                  Anyway I have purchased two different puttys and will try them out.....

                  And...

                  Haven'yt got them yet though
                  Bit strange. Your “ thanks” post shows as the one above this. Posted yesterday at 10.34 pm. Have you tried refreshing your browser?

                  Comment

                  • Modler bob
                    SMF Supporters
                    • May 2022
                    • 277

                    #24
                    Originally posted by Tim Marlow
                    Bit strange. Your “ thanks” post shows as the one above this. Posted yesterday at 10.34 pm. Have you tried refreshing your browser?
                    Cheers, Tim.
                    I've deleted one now. The trouble was that I didn't have a "next page" showing at the top or bottom of the page, seems OK now though.
                    Stange, as this happened once before

                    Comment

                    • Modler bob
                      SMF Supporters
                      • May 2022
                      • 277

                      #25
                      oK, so I've started on the Seafire FR 47, just painted several bits b/4 building
                      I'm finding a big difference with the instructions compared to years ago.
                      Obviosly instructions nowadays are designed for all countries, and it's fairly straightforward, apart from having to cut/drill out openings for the transparent pieces/windows?
                      I dfon't ever remember having to do anything like this before. Are Airfix getting lazy? :astonished:

                      Comment

                      • Guest

                        #26
                        It’s probably because they (intend to?) release different versions of the plane that don’t need all of those holes.

                        Comment

                        • JR
                          • May 2015
                          • 18273

                          #27
                          Originally posted by Jakko
                          Over 30 years ago, my best friend at the time used Contact with that needle applicator for his models, and despite not smoking, always kept a cigarette lighter handy to unblock it :smiling3:

                          As for what I use to glue with, maybe a little under 30 years ago, someone tipped me to buy 250 ml tins of a thinner/degreaser commonly sold in hardware stores here in the Netherlands, as that works very well to glue model kit parts. Pour it into an empty bottle with brush, that liquid model cements normally come in, and you can just keep refilling the bottle any time you need it. The tins cost (back then and now) about as much as a 40 ml bottle of model cement.

                          I used that for decades and am very happy with it. Maybe two years ago, I decided to buy a bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin, and found it works better for some things and not as well for others, so now I have two bottles of glue. Mainly, the TET doesn’t evaporate as fast, so it’s better for glueing small parts together where I need to put a dot of glue on one side and then press the other part to it. When the TET ran out, I found out what it’s actually made of, and decided to buy 100 ml bottles of the two ingredients, mixing them 50/50 when needed. Again, because I’m cheap in this regard: those two bottles including postage set me back about as much as a bottle of TET with postage but hold about five times as much :smiling3:
                          This type of stuff .

                          Click image for larger version

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ID:	1182063

                          Cost £6.67 or 7.98 €. Often thought would this be any good or is it very strong ? It's used by plumbers to join PCV pipes .

                          Comment

                          • Tim Marlow
                            SMF Supporters
                            • Apr 2018
                            • 18900
                            • Tim
                            • Somerset UK

                            #28
                            If it’s like the polypipe glue I’ve used John, it’s quite thick and extremely hot so will melt plastic very quickly. Even on polypipe assembly you only get one shot at the joints……best dry fit the plumbing and mark the orientation with a pencil line, put on the glue, and push together….job done. Great for waste pipe systems, not so good for models…..

                            Comment

                            • Guest

                              #29
                              Originally posted by John Race
                              This type of stuff .

                              [ATTACH=CONFIG]n1182063[/ATTACH]
                              No, this:

                              [ATTACH]460256[/ATTACH]

                              According to the MSDS, it’s basically 25–50% naphtha, 10–25% ethyl acetate, 10–25% more naphtha (but treated differently from the other), 10–25% methyl ethyl ketone (MEK), <1% n-hexane and <1% cyclohexane.

                              Originally posted by John Race
                              Cost £6.67 or 7.98 €. Often thought would this be any good or is it very strong ? It's used by plumbers to join PCV pipes .
                              The kind of glue used for plumbing pipes is normally thick and gloopy, AFAIK, and applied with a stick or a spatula — not the kind you’d want to use on a model kit I think But if you happen to come across an opened jar/tin/etc. you could always take a peek at what it’s like, I suppose.

                              Comment

                              • JR
                                • May 2015
                                • 18273

                                #30
                                Originally posted by Tim Marlow
                                If it’s like the polypipe glue I’ve used John, it’s quite thick and extremely hot so will melt plastic very quickly. Even on polypipe assembly you only get one shot at the joints……best dry fit the plumbing and mark the orientation with a pencil line, put on the glue, and push together….job done. Great for waste pipe systems, not so good for models…..
                                Yes Tim, was a thought as my plumber used to use it. No good for us then, oh well will continue to use Tamiya

                                Comment

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