annealing photo etch

[Jim R]

I am working with some rather awkward PE and according to some internet research things would be improved by annealing. I looked this up and I am now more confused than when I started!!! :rolling:
I am sure lots of you understand annealing so HELP please :tongue-out3:

What does annealing achieve?
How hot do you have to get the piece of PE?
Do you let it cool naturally or put it into cold water?
What is the difference between annealing and tempering?
Any tips and advice gratefully received.

The internet is good but the knowledge of forum members is better :thumb2:
Jim

[Mark1]

Anealing will make things softer,more easily bendable, tempering will make things harder,stronger.

[Ian M]

For PE In brass you just need to show it a flame from a lighter. It just needs to get to a dull red colour.
Do it in a shadow or dark space as it is hard to see in daylight or under a work lamp. Then let it cool down.
To be honest I have never met a bit of PE that needed this to be done for normal bending work. It can help if you need to roll a part to make it round though.
Brass used for PE is normally quite soft and heating it to bright red will suddenly end by it dripping off and landing on your fingers, your feet or some critical part of your model, like a clear part or the top of the wing.

[Modler bob]

What is PE guys

[Tim Marlow]

In addition to Ian’s excellent summary, Annealing can also make the part too soft to handle nicely. It will literally bend under any pressure you put on it so can be hard to manipulate. It will harden up a bit (called work hardening) as you bend and shape it which can result in the part behaving unpredictably. I worked with etch a lot in my railway days, and only ever used the technique half a dozen times. I’ve never used it while working on plastic models.

[Tim Marlow]

What is PE guys :smiling3:

Photo Etch Bob. It’s a medium used to produce detailing parts.

[Ian M]

What is PE guys :smiling3:

Photo Etch Bob. It’s a medium used to produce detailing parts.

Dont panic Bob no need to find your plimsoles and shorts.

[Jim R]

Thanks guys. Not only thanks for the info but also for a good laugh :thumb2::tongue-out3:

[Guest]

The only times I’ve found PE parts in need of annealing is for things like bending them into neat rings, and if the part needs to be bent tightly around a plastic part, both of which often don’t work well without annealing. Otherwise, it’s usually unnecessary, IMHO.

[Modler bob]

i'm sitting here with my shorts on (no plimsolls afraid)and learning all the time.

[stillp]

If you need to anneal PE, remember the small details will heat up quicker than the bigger bits, so it's very easy to melt the fine parts. It's safer to put the part you want to anneal on top of a piece of brass sheet such as the PE frame, and heat that to dull red so the heat transfers evenly to the smaller parts.
Pete

[BattleshipBob]

Very interesting discussion, thanks Jim, great thread

I too have got my shorts on and yes, the ladies are queuing up to point and laugh. I have feelings you know!!!

[rtfoe]

I don't anneal my etch parts as they are already soft enough for bending. I would prefer them tempered to avoid damaging them after all the intricate bending.

At least you guys are proper in shorts, the late good old Tim used to sport PJs, bathhrobe and a large brimmed floppy hat.

Cheers,
Richard