Bobs battle with PE, latest score PE 1 - bob 1

[boatman]

WELL come on Bobm8ty when are we gonna see 2 to 1 on your score then ?

[BattleshipBob]

WELL come on Bobm8ty when are we gonna see 2 to 1 on your score then ?

It's time for half time oranges

[Scratchbuilder]

Bob,
C/a applicator.... Get an old wooden clothes peg, take it apart and then shape one half to a wedge shape. In the end of this wedge drill a hole the size of a hat pin and then cut the top of the pin away, dip in c/a and insert into the hole. You should now have a sharp point ready to dip into c/a and locate as you wish. Now to apply along a line, use a #10A scalpel blade, dip into the c/a and then run the tip of the blade along the line you wish to join.
Fron the pics you have shown us it appears the c/a drying time is forever and actually dries out before it has had time to cure.... I use c/a purchased from Delux Materials, I usually buy a bottle of 'Rocket Rapid and a bottle of 'Rocket Hot' I then mix the two together which gives me a better product (my opinion). You know those milk bottle tops you throw away, keep them and use them to hold the c/a when taken from the bottle, and once used can be wiped clean with a bit of kitchen towel.
Hope this helps - I will put a pic up of my c/a tools for you later, just out of sick bed.
Cheers
Mike.

[Mr Bowcat]

Bob, I'll weigh in with my take on it.

I use this type of CA, it's fairly thick but being in a squeeze dispenser doesn't seem to go off. I don't keep it in the fridge and haven't had one stop sticking before it runs out.

I use an old glass Tamiya paint pot. Put some glue on the bottom and use a sharpened toothpick to apply. Once there are no more clean spots on the glass, the old glue just pops off (normally in one piece) with some help from a knife blade.

I've found this type of glue better than any other I have personally tried for PE.

[Dave Ward]

Fibre Glass pens work very well, but it seems I'm allergic to the dust & I come out in a red itchy rash within 20 mins of using - so it was binned. I use fine emery paper to roughen the surface, I cut wood stirrers/lolly sticks to shape, then CA small pieces of emery paper to the tip - tailor made for size & shape. The PE will be washed in IPA first & annealed if its' particularly big. I used to cut the PE on a ceramic tile, but now, courtesy of my sister-in-law, I use a pair of Surgical Gum Scissors - much easier. I just use Loctite CA, with an accelerator when needed ( rigging! )
Dave

[Ian M]

Bobm8ty

Do we have to have the sms texts? Always been a pet hate and so far the forum has been thankfully free of it. Is it so much harder to type matey?

One thing I cannot get on with is a cocktail stick, always seems to put a very small drop of CA, despite dipping it in a pool of CA, or am I missing the point ( boom boom )!

The wood ones soak it up Bob. I figured that one out while trying to glue plastic to cocktail sticks to paint them.. lol.

Use the brush damp Bob. Dip it in a dish of dilute washing up liquid before use and the fibres won’t fly……as a bonus it cleans the grease and grime off the surface at the same time it removes the oxide layer :thumb2:

Im trying that one! I (foolishly) sweep things aside with my hand and end up with several of those little fibers embedded in my skin!!!

[Tim Marlow]

For cocktail sticks, let a drop of CA soak in and dry. Polish with fine Emery paper, and they will be good to go. The first coating seals the surface…….after that they work like a non porous implement :thumb2:

[boatman]

Do we have to have the sms texts? Always been a pet hate and so far the forum has been thankfully free of it. Is it so much harder to type matey?


The wood ones soak it up Bob. I figured that one out while trying to glue plastic to cocktail sticks to paint them.. lol.


Im trying that one! I (foolishly) sweep things aside with my hand and end up with several of those little fibers embedded in my skin!!!

OK Ian matey it is hows that ?

[boatman]

Fibre Glass pens work very well, but it seems I'm allergic to the dust & I come out in a red itchy rash within 20 mins of using - so it was binned. I use fine emery paper to roughen the surface, I cut wood stirrers/lolly sticks to shape, then CA small pieces of emery paper to the tip - tailor made for size & shape. The PE will be washed in IPA first & annealed if its' particularly big. I used to cut the PE on a ceramic tile, but now, courtesy of my sister-in-law, I use a pair of Surgical Gum Scissors - much easier. I just use Loctite CA, with an accelerator when needed ( rigging! )
Dave

AN Thats how i do Dave simple an easy

[BattleshipBob]

First up!

Thank you all for the excellent advice, tips and hard earned experience. Finally, finally got to use a cocktail stick right, one end for applying CA and the other to move the PE into place and yes folks all without swearing lol, thanks Ian / Tim!

Do not feel 100% today but spent 30 mins again practicing. Plastic card and scrap PE, used Mig CA, put the zap stuff for house use only.


Tried wicking CA using both loopers, and the applicator. Bit messy, but it stuck well.

2nd go

Very pleased with the PE stuck edge on to the card, much better, stronger grab as well. played with the looper by wasting the 1st and 2nd larger deposits, then using the smaller drops to wick in, much neater. Round hatch cover, messy but getting there.

I am now much more confident, thanks to you chaps, much appreciated all. Real test coming up in battleship form!

Latest score PE 1,Bob 2!

[Tim Marlow]

First Saudi Arabia, then Japan, then Bob……..things are getting better and better…….

[Scratchbuilder]

Bob,
C/a applicator.... Get an old wooden clothes peg, take it apart and then shape one half to a wedge shape. In the end of this wedge drill a hole the size of a hat pin and then cut the top of the pin away, dip in c/a and insert into the hole. You should now have a sharp point ready to dip into c/a and locate as you wish. Now to apply along a line, use a #10A scalpel blade, dip into the c/a and then run the tip of the blade along the line you wish to join.
Fron the pics you have shown us it appears the c/a drying time is forever and actually dries out before it has had time to cure.... I use c/a purchased from Delux Materials, I usually buy a bottle of 'Rocket Rapid and a bottle of 'Rocket Hot' I then mix the two together which gives me a better product (my opinion). You know those milk bottle tops you throw away, keep them and use them to hold the c/a when taken from the bottle, and once used can be wiped clean with a bit of kitchen towel.
Hope this helps - I will put a pic up of my c/a tools for you later, just out of sick bed.
Cheers
Mike.

Here are the pics of my tools for c/a Bob....

And a close up of the main 'applicator'...

Mike.

[JR]

Bob you forgot to say how the Zap stuck to your fingers or anything else that you had it on. I find a woollen jumper is superb, regardless of what type or age is being used, I have found many pieces of "lost " pe when taking my jumper off.