I need another filler

[zuludog]

For most of my modelling career I've used Squadron Green Putty, and I've been happy enough with it; unfortunately I hear it is no longer available
But besides that, as I haven't been making as many kits as I used to, my current tube of Green Putty is drying out in the tube, despite keeping it in an old jam jar

So what to do now? - it would be annoying to have to throw out that tube and buy more
But I've had an idea - I've seen a video about making your own filler by mixing/dissolving sprue in liquid glue and keeping it in a glass jar
Do you think If I emptied my tube of Green Putty into a jar and added some liquid glue and perhaps a bit of scrap sprue that would work?
I don't suppose I've got anything to lose

Failing that, what are the current favourites to replace Green Putty please?

[JR]

Zuludog, I tried with little success the chopped up sprue in TXT , at the moment I use Tamiya and Deluxe Materials .Both have good points and bad .

[Tim Marlow]

Hi mate.

These days there are far better options than sprue goo. Like John, I’ve tried it, but found it hard to work with. It is also inconsistent in use, drying quickly in the bottle so changing over time.

For areas that need high adhesion and good sanding ability, such as shallow knockout pin depressions, both Tamiya (if you can get it) and Mr Color stuff (can’t remember its name, but it’s probably Mr Putty) are very good. They are cellulose based. They stick really well and can be sanded to a glass smooth finish without crumbling. I would say these are the closest to squadron green stuff, and are in fact superior in use these days.

For filler that doesn’t need strength, for wing root joins and such, Deluxe materials perfect plastic putty is excellent. It is acrylic based, so has the added bonus that wiping it with a damp cotton bud before it dries will clean the joint right up without sanding. It doesn’t work well for shallow filling or any areas that need a lot of sanding though, because it doesn’t have the adherence of the cellulose types.

There are plenty of other makes around, but I’ve only tried the stuff from AK, so will only comment on those. The acrylic putty they make is quite poor, with little adhesion or sanding ability. You cannot put it into a joint then wipe it clean (as you can the PPP stuff mentioned above) because it all just comes out again. The “traditional” cellulose putty from the same company is OK, but shrinks more than the others I’ve mentioned and doesn’t really have the same adhesive or sanding qualities I require. They are both also quite “wet” so are sloppy to use, which probably contributes to the shrinkage I’ve noticed.

[Guest]

I always liked Revell Plasto, but quickly discovered that it does require that you squeeze out all the liquid goo first so that what’s left in the tube is a drier paste. However, for years now (since my last tube of Plasto ran out), I’ve been using a car body filler from a tube. It works just as well as modelling putty, including that it can be thinned with liquid cement.

[Tim Marlow]

I always liked Revell Plasto, but quickly discovered that it does require that you squeeze out all the liquid goo first so that what’s left in the tube is a drier paste. However, for years now (since my last tube of Plasto ran out), I’ve been using a car body filler from a tube. It works just as well as modelling putty, including that it can be thinned with liquid cement.

I used to use knife stopping, basically cellulose filler in a tin. Great stuff, especially on etch kits because it stuck so well. Unfortunately the wide shallow tin gave it a short shelf life for modelling because the solvent evaporated quickly. Tube stuff is much more convenient.

[zuludog]

Yes - as I understand it, plastic modelling putty was developed in the USA by Custom Car enthusiasts and car body repairers

To repair car bodywork you use a 2 part epoxy filler, but this is a bit coarse and tends to leave air bubble holes and other minor imperfections and unevenness, so they are filled with a softer ready to use filler known as knifing stopper or knifing putty
The workers on full size cars often made models so they used the knifing stopper for their modelling, and later this was developed into the modelling putty that we know & use today

I had thought of just buying a small tin of knifing stopper from Halfords, and also there is still a proper model shop not too far from me so I could see what they have, possibly Humbrol
But first I thought I'd see if I could resurrect my tube of Green Stuff.

[Jim R]

.... and Mr Color stuff (can’t remember its name, but it’s probably Mr Putty) are very good.

This is the stuff ....
[IMG width="220px"]https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/1630067253-42788700-800x800.jpg[/IMG]
They also do a Mr Dissolved Putty and a thinner version of the above called Mr White Putty R

[Tim Marlow]

This is the stuff ....
[IMG width="220px"]https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/1630067253-42788700-800x800.jpg[/IMG]
They also do a Mr Dissolved Putty and a thinner version of the above called Mr White Putty R

Cheers Jim. Surprised they didn’t call the thinner version Mr Runny putty……..but yes, that’s the one. Great stuff it is, as good as the Tamiya putty though slightly different in texture and handling from the tube, it is able to take a very fine sanding. The Tamiya putty is just like cellulose knife stopping in a tube.

[Andy the Sheep]

Zuludog, I use Tamiya filler too but if you want to try to save some of your already dried old putty, then I can suggest to use Tamiya airbrush cleaner as dissolver: it comes in larger bottles and works as good as their liquid cement (in fact they are almost the same thing, made with the same components with just a slight shift in % between the two main components).
I have a small glass pot of that home made liquid filler and when it gets too dry, it needs just a few drop of cleaner to become usable again.