Weathering will be a long process. 
First step done.
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More progress on this base. I cut down some long woodscrews and inserted the smooth end into holes drilled the depth of the MDF
Then I glued the container at an angle, protecting the base so that it and the screws could be removed from the wood later. I used 5 minute epoxy, but even after 3 hours it was still soft and couldn't even support it's own limited weight. After a bit of heat it stiffened up enough for me to remove the assembly and reinforce it with more epoxy
I'll keep adding more epoxy, but because it flows so much I can only add a bit at a time or it would be all over the place.Comment
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Nice start on this Andy, Iโm sure it will turn out as well as your other buildsโฆ.
Iโve been using epoxy on and off for over forty years now, and if you are interested, here are my thoughts on thisโฆ..
Epoxy can be weird stuff, especially the short acting five minute sort. It seems to be extremely reliant on exact proportion and a perfect mix between adhesive and hardener to set like itโs supposed to. It will completely dry with time (usually about 24 hours) though, and just get harder as it ages. I think the chemical reaction takes a while to propagate through the material if the mix is even a little uneven, making the five minute epoxy react more like the 24 hour variety. I think what may happen is that the well mixed parts go off quickly, and the less well mixed parts have to wait for the catalyst in the hardener to permeate through the set areas before the reaction is complete. Warming it will speed the reaction up, but will make the epoxy more fluid to start with. Personally I use the ten minute variety if I can get it because you get slightly more working time and a more reliable set.
The most reliable make Iโve found is Devcon. Never found a problem with the components ageing but I always use the stuff in two tubes and keep in at room temperature in the dark. Araldite used to develop a crust on the adhesive with age, so wasnโt so good for long term storage between uses. Not used Gorilla glue so canโt say how that alters over time, but I would certainly keep those clear tubes in the dark. Itโs not something I use much these days, but Iโve probably only bought half a dozen packs in my modelling โlifetimeโโฆComment
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Thanks Tim. I use a fair few 2 part adhesives and sealers in the day job so I'm usually pretty good at ensuring even quantities and thorough mixing, but something sure went awry with this.
As I've just said to Jim above, it could be how poorly it was stored. I'll pay more attention to that in the future.
Thankfully it's gone rock solid now, so all's good in the end.
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Great idea and brilliantly executed.Comment
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Wow now thats inovative.ImpressiveComment
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Thanks guys.
I've still got the tricky part to fully work out, but I'm waiting on a delivery of brass strip (cheers Paul for the details), before I can go much further.
Thankfully the belly of the model is a separate piece and fits wonderfully, so I can crack on with the rest of it and join it up later.Comment
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Nicely done.Looks excellent.
RichardComment
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Following the way I believe they were painted in real life, I gave the Chinook a very quick & dirty camouflage:
The after a protective coat of clear I sprayed the desert pink, adding some variation with bits of US desert sand and Middle Stone. I've gradually started abrading the pink away, as if sand blasted by the rotor downwash etc, to reveal some of the camo underneath. The picture doesn't show it well and it still needs more work, but it's getting to where I want it to be.
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M1 is going from the bench to the shelf waiting for its final destination at my late friend's son home.
Still pondering about the aerials, which should be there but in my models they seldom last more than 15 minutes...
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That has turned out great.Comment
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Super doopah Andrea.Looks mighty fine fella.
RichardComment
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Very, very nice indeed!
SteveComment
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Very well done.Comment
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