Superglue question

[Tim Marlow]

I just buy superglue in a hardware store, Bison if I have to buy it where I live, but Pattex/Loctite (same actual glue) if I have time to go into town to get it. I always buy fairly small tubes — any more than 3 g and I waste far more of a tube/bottle than I use from it.

Talking of wasting glue, I find these:

… work well to prevent that. I clean the nozzle with a rag every time before I put the cap on, and because the whole thing stands upright, glue is less likely to clog up the nozzle anyway. (Inside is just a 3 g tube of glue, BTW.)

That’s my go to type. Once it doesn’t dispense glue, take the tube out of the holder and you’ll find there is about 1g remaining that can still be used.

[Tim Marlow]

Its not so much a can of worms as I'm sure all the recommendations here are sound but in the end it comes down to personal choice ,you might well go through two or three of these before you find the one that works for you ,super glue /CA call it what you want its still super glue/CA at the end of the day but and there's a load of butt's in this hobby your find one that your totally confident with despite the fact that its another man's poison.
I dont usualy like bandying brands about but I've used Deluxe Rocket max for a few years now the blue labled one gives you 10-20 secs wriggle time so panic doesn't set in youd be surprised how long 20secs is.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1216732[/ATTACH]
You only ever use very small amounts each time these I put on a plastic lid (think this ones from a Bisto carton/tube)it will stay workable there for your session at the bench once no room left turn over and repeat and if you haven't got a replacement give it a good flexing and flick off bits with a finger nail.
As Jakko says keep the nozel clean and store upright.
Well good hunting Ralph at the end of the day confidence in what your using not the brand is the key. Oh yes and for the minute please don't ask about storing the stuff that's asking for trouble mythical ain't the word for it. Dave

That’s a good tip Dave. If you stick a scrap of double sided tape on something (I use a scrap of 2x1 wood) it will do the same job. All you do then is peel the tape off and replace it once used. Stays workable for ages because there is no moisture incorporated into the surface.

[rtfoe]

Its not so much a can of worms as I'm sure all the recommendations here are sound but in the end it comes down to personal choice ,you might well go through two or three of these before you find the one that works for you ,super glue /CA call it what you want its still super glue/CA at the end of the day but and there's a load of butt's in this hobby your find one that your totally confident with despite the fact that its another man's poison.
I dont usualy like bandying brands about but I've used Deluxe Rocket max for a few years now the blue labled one gives you 10-20 secs wriggle time so panic doesn't set in youd be surprised how long 20secs is.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1216732[/ATTACH]
You only ever use very small amounts each time these I put on a plastic lid (think this ones from a Bisto carton/tube)it will stay workable there for your session at the bench once no room left turn over and repeat and if you haven't got a replacement give it a good flexing and flick off bits with a finger nail.
As Jakko says keep the nozel clean and store upright.
Well good hunting Ralph at the end of the day confidence in what your using not the brand is the key. Oh yes and for the minute please don't ask about storing the stuff that's asking for trouble mythical ain't the word for it. Dave

I use a Pringles cap...works the same too.

Cheers,
Wabble

[Scratchbuilder]

I buy the Delux materials c/a, but I buy a bottle of the 5 sec and the 10 sec, I then mix both together which gives me a workable material. This is just my preference for sticking etch brass or aluminium to the model.
I have also found that the VMS products work but at a slower rate.
I do not use the 'blaster' as I find the clean up a waste of time.
Application - It is either a dress pin that has had the head cut off (flat bit) and c/a'd into the end of half a wood peg or old paintbrush handle. For applying along say a corner joint I use a #10a scalpel blade, dipped into the c/a and then run along the joint.
I do not pour c/a direct from the bottle unless I need gallons of the stuff in one place, I use an old rattle can paint cup that has had the middle heated over a candle to soften the plastic and then a small dip is pushed into it, then I put the c/a into that and prevent a lot of waste. And for cleaning up or dabbing away any excess I use the ever faithful cheap tiolet roll....

Tools of the trade????
Hope this helps.

[Andy T]

I'm another that dispenses a bit onto a cap. I save the green tops from milk cartons. We get through so much milk I'm considering buying our own cow!

[Scratchbuilder]

I'm another that dispenses a bit onto a cap. I save the green tops from milk cartons. We get through so much milk I'm considering buying our own cow!

You cannot have a cow, Saint Greta claims they polute the air - she needs to sit next to our Basset after she has had a good feast.....

[stillp]

I put a scrap of masking tape in the corner of my cutting mat and use that.

[Mr Bowcat]

I have an old empty Tamiya paint jar, superglue goes on the upside down (glass) end. After a month or two the resulting disk of dried glue pops straight off.

Been using Bob Smith Industries for a while now, I particularly like the Gold variant which can be used on clear parts without causing any fogging.

[Guest]

Once it doesn’t dispense glue, take the tube out of the holder and you’ll find there is about 1g remaining that can still be used.

That’s exactly what I did last month. Though I had to cut apart the holder to get to that point, but I’m sure there’s a better way I haven’t discovered yet

[Tim Marlow]

The black bit comes out of the bottom of the grey bit if you pull it a little.

[Guest]

That bit I had also worked out, but the tube seems to be held in the grey bit with some kind of snap ring around the neck of the tube. I ended up sawing the grey bit apart to get the tube out.

Or, of course, I could have left the tube in the grey bit and just squeeze it with my fingers instead of with the push-in grips, I suppose

[Strenko J]

I’ve recently purchased the Ammo Ultra Glue and I’m having a huge amount of success with it. It’s easily applied and easily removed because of its acrylic base.

[Gern]

I'm another that dispenses a bit onto a cap. I save the green tops from milk cartons. We get through so much milk I'm considering buying our own cow!

Is there room next to your workbench for a cow? Even if there is, where you gonna put the superglue?

Probably best to stick (See what I did there?) to bottletops.

[Sprue42]

Thanks guys, very helpful. It looks like my best bet is to just buy some modern CA and see if I like it. As you all seem to be saying that personal choice is the driving force behind brand decision. Dispensing a small amount on to a non porous surface and applying it from there using some kind of applicator is exactly the sort of thing I had missed, but makes perfect sense.

Thanks Guys.

BTW, I too do not have room for a cow in my planned workspace...

Ralph.

[Mr Bowcat]

Ralph, also worth considering are precision applicators, very good when you need a tiny bit of glue in just the right spot.