A synopsis

[Guest]

Trying to save myself a lot of trial and error here. Perhaps other recent ‘returnees’ will find this of some help?

1.Clean plastic (I don’t normally bother)
2.Prime
3.modulation/pre-shading/etc
4.base coat/s
5.varnish
6.decals
7.varnish
8.weathering/washes

if using oils/white spirits, etc. then varnish needs to be a strong type - or it will need 2 or 3 days to dry (not sure yet)

does this seem a common paradigm?

[Guest]

I generally skip steps 1, 2, 3, 5, and 7 My normal way to paint a model is:

1. Base coat
2. Sprayed highlights in the middle of panels
3. Wash for shading
4. Drybrush for highlights
5. Decals
6. Weathering

As I usually paint the base coat with alcohol-based acrylics, I don’t think I need to clean the plastic or apply a primer: the paint is aggressive enough to cut through minor contamination and still adhere well. I only put on an overall coat of primer if the model is entirely or mostly non-plastic, like a resin kit, or a plastic model with major bits replaced by resin, or that has extensive photoetched parts. On models with a few, small non-plastic parts, such as a couple of etched details, I generally brush-paint primer only over those before the base coat. Another reason for priming the whole model is if I intend to use a water-based acrylic, especially Vallejo, for the base coat — that type of paint often beads up on bare plastic, but not if applied over other paint.

But the important thing, IMHO, is to find a way that works for you. Read or watch how others do it, then decide on which steps you think you’ll need to take. And don’t hesitate to modify your own sequence if you think it might work better. Never slavishly follow what someone else does or tells you

[Guest]

I generally skip steps 1, 2, 3, 5, and 7 :smiling3: My normal way to paint a model is:

1. Base coat
2. Sprayed highlights in the middle of panels
3. Wash for shading
4. Drybrush for highlights
5. Decals
6. Weathering

As I usually paint the base coat with alcohol-based acrylics, I don’t think I need to clean the plastic or apply a primer: the paint is aggressive enough to cut through minor contamination and still adhere well. I only put on an overall coat of primer if the model is entirely or mostly non-plastic, like a resin kit, or a plastic model with major bits replaced by resin, or that has extensive photoetched parts. On models with a few, small non-plastic parts, such as a couple of etched details, I generally brush-paint primer only over those before the base coat. Another reason for priming the whole model is if I intend to use a water-based acrylic, especially Vallejo, for the base coat — that type of paint often beads up on bare plastic, but not if applied over other paint.

But the important thing, IMHO, is to find a way that works for you. Read or watch how others do it, then decide on which steps you think you’ll need to take. And don’t hesitate to modify your own sequence if you think it might work better. Never slavishly follow what someone else does or tells you :smiling3:

I think you mean lacquer based acrylics Ex: Tamiya. I haven't used them yet - I’m still testing out the acrylics. I think that they are a little vulnerable to oil washes which is why a varnish coat is advisable. I slavishly follow build reviews and vids with a discerning eye!

[Tim Marlow]

That’s pretty much how I do it Paul.

[Guest]

I think you mean lacquer based acrylics Ex: Tamiya.

No, I mean alcohol-based acrylics such as Tamiya’s X-/XF-series rather than their LP-series.

I’m still testing out the acrylics. I think that they are a little vulnerable to oil washes

Not in my experience. Alcohol-based acrylics are vulnerable to alcohol — don’t apply a wash from paint + methanol over dried acrylic paint, for example, because it will strip some of the paint off. But I’ve never had an issue with a wash made from enamel paint + white spirit affecting acrylic paint at all.

I find that varnish only adds steps that can go wrong — the varnish may turn white unexpectedly (though luckily rarely), it adds thickness so if you’re not careful you can obliterate detail, several I’ve used had a tendency to remain glossy even though they claim to be matt, etc.

[Guest]

That’s pretty much how I do it Paul.

Thanks Tim - I will slavishly follow you then!

[Tim Marlow]

Thanks Tim - I will slavishly follow you then!

That way could well result in disappointment so I’m getting my apologies in early