Tools For Cutting/Bending & Shaping Photo Etch Parts

[malvern_man]

Hi all,

Some tool set recommendations needed please.

I'm going to start building my Tamiya Willys Jeep and I've got the photo etch parts kit for it too.

I've now realised that I haven't got any small tools for cutting and bending/shaping photo etch parts. Has anyone got any recommendations for the tools needed or tool sets that I can purchase please.

Regards, Chris.

[Waspie]

Hi all,

Some tool set recommendations needed please.

I'm going to start building my Tamiya Willys Jeep and I've got the photo etch parts kit for it too.

I've now realised that I haven't got any small tools for cutting and bending/shaping photo etch parts. Has anyone got any recommendations for the tools needed or tool sets that I can purchase please.

Regards, Chris.

Hi Chris. I thought about this when I started and encountered my first sheet of etch!!
Then I asked on here and found in reality I had enough sitting around to not bother with a dedicated folding/bending tool.
All I use is a metal rule, I have a 6 inch rule that fits that role. A few scalpel blades to cut the etch, a Stanley knife blade to bend the etch and bobs yer uncle!!!. Later on, when/if I encounter something that needs a specialist tool I'll look for one but until then I'll carry on with my limited tools.

[Scratchbuilder]

Hello Chris,
You do not need to go out and start spending a fortune on bending tools, most of what you need you probably already have.
Below are my main folding tools for working etch....

Left to right...
The long handled scalpel and #10A blade and the half peg with a bent pin in it are all I use for c/a glueing. You can buy items that will fo the same job.
Tweezers, I have just put down three and these are the main ones I use, the small eyebrow ones (left) and the pointed ones I use for those small fiddly bits where your fingers get in the way and use these as a pair of 'fingers'. The flat ones plus another two pair of pointed ones have had some 240 wet n dry added with c/a to the jaws about 15mm in length which give a better grip.
The scalpels and the half blade above them are used for bending, and for picking up with the point those little parts and placing them.
The ruler is used to hold down parts while bending them...
The smooth jaw pliers again can be used to hold and act as a small vice to hold parts while bending them.

And of course there are the manufactured bending and folding tools that are available, and yes, I do use them sometimes, normally for long lengths of brass or aluminium that requires bending.
Hope this helps
Mike.

[Jim R]

Sound advice already from Doug and Mike. The only thing I'd add is when you cut the part from the fret with a blade don't cut on your cutting mat. Cutting mats have too much give in them and that will distort the part. Also don't cut on a very hard surface such as glass as that will wreck the knife blade. You need something that has a little give in it. I use a small sheet of perspex.
Before using CA glue the etch should be cleaned to ensure a firm fix. I use one of those fibreglass pens. Just be careful of the little bits of fibreglass that are shed. They can be quite irritating and definitely don't breathe them in. I wipe the work area with a damp tissue to pick them up. Scratching the mating surfaces with a rough sander or a knife also helps to ensure a good strong joint.

[Scratchbuilder]

Sorry as Jim said you need something to use to cut the part from the fret.
I use a nylon cutting board that you use in a kitchen. I obtained mine from Sainburys for a few pounds and cut off a piece about 100x50mm with the rest put into storage for later.

[Ian M]

A pair of fine scissors are also good to have, also some form of diamond files or fine needle files. Cutting the parts free can leave a tiny tab. a quick pass with a file takes care of that. The scissors are good for cutting right up to the edge of larger parts. (for brass PE)

[Tim Marlow]

Quick tip: If you are going to use a fibreglass pen to clean parts I would have a small dish of water with a spot of washing up liquid in it on your bench. Dip the brush in it before use and it won’t shed fibres all over the place.
As to bending etch I use pretty much identical kit to Mike. I don’t own any commercial etch bending kit because I learned how to handle the stuff before they were invented. For cutting etch off of the fret I use curved bladed scalpels. The curve blade means you can “roll” the blade over the tab minimising the energy being put into the cut and reducing the possibility of shooting the parts all over the room. I cut the etch on a scrap of Formica covered MDF to minimise distortion, but any hard surface that isn’t too hard on a blade edge will do. To fold long lengths of etch (rare in military modelling but very common in railway modelling) I use two steel rules and a bench vice, folding the part with a third ruler.

[Gern]

I've not done much PE work, but I found a pair of long nose pliers with smooth faces to be a big help (Tamiya make some but they're quite expensive. Might be worth trying your local hardware store). They work the same way as Tim's steel rules which I couldn't do. My shaky hands won't allow me to line up the PE with both rules and then clamp them in a vice - it can take me 5 minutes to get smaller parts lined up in the pliers when I've only got two things to hold!

They're also useful for holding the PE when you file off the attachment nubs.

[Mr Bowcat]

I tend to use Tamiya PE pliers for most bending, although do have a Hold & Fold which is useful sometimes. However most useful are Xuron PE shears which allow connection points to be snipped right next to parts leaving almost no filing clean up.

[Dave Ward]

I used to cut my PE on a porcelain tile with a 10A scalpel blade - but now I use a pair of these
https://www.amazon.co.uk/SANDBROS®-Scissors-Scissor-Tungsten-Carbide/dp/B084HMHC4S/ref=sr_1_5?crid=F32WELRD3J55&keywords=dental+gum+s cissors&qid=1707313293&sprefix=dental+gum+scissors ,aps,124&sr=8-5
They are very sharp & the curved blades let you get close to the PE part. I reserve them for PE use only.................
Dave

[Tim Marlow]

I've not done much PE work, but I found a pair of long nose pliers with smooth faces to be a big help (Tamiya make some but they're quite expensive. Might be worth trying your local hardware store). They work the same way as Tim's steel rules which I couldn't do. My shaky hands won't allow me to line up the PE with both rules and then clamp them in a vice - it can take me 5 minutes to get smaller parts lined up in the pliers when I've only got two things to hold!

They're also useful for holding the PE when you file off the attachment nubs.

The secret with the rulers is to put a bolt through the hanging holes at the end of the rulers Dave. That way you can get enough friction on them to hold the etch in place while you tighten the vice…..I also use smooth jawed pliers, by the way. Box jointed jobs are best, they don't twist out of alignment….

[scottie3158]

The guys have pretty much said it all about the tools needed. The only thing I would say is don't just use the etch because it's there the kit stuff is sometimes just as good and etch is very 2 dimensional so wire is often better than the etch for example tie downs and grab handles. Next study the finished item carefully so you bend the items in the right direction the parts will snap if you try and bend them back and then the right way.

Mostly though good luck and have fun.

[malvern_man]

Hi all,

Thank you for the suggestions and the advice.

I have found that most things I need I've actually got, such as various scalpel handles and various shaped blades etc, etc. To make sharp corners/bends I've found that the very thin (years old) butter knife out of the cutlery draw works fine.

I've got quite a few needle files in my collection too for deburring and smoothing off the photo etch parts.

To clean/key the etch part before CA gluing in place I use some P600 emery paper.

Regards, Chris.

[Waspie]

Hi all,

Thank you for the suggestions and the advice.

I have found that most things I need I've actually got, such as various scalpel handles and various shaped blades etc, etc. To make sharp corners/bends I've found that the very thin (years old) butter knife out of the cutlery draw works fine.

I've got quite a few needle files in my collection too for deburring and smoothing off the photo etch parts.

Regards, Chris.

Way to go Chris.