What blade type do you use and for what ?
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Of course, with scalpels you really need one of these….
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It’s the safest way to dispose of them, and makes blade removal very easy as well. By no means expensive either. If you want to terrify yourself. Have a good browse through the Swann Morton web site…..there are a bewildering range of very sharp tools on there Which could do serious damage if used badly.
I have a swan morton blade from a heavy duty lab knife.
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I too have a sharps container for auto injections, but I find the little box better to keep on the bench. I just drop it in the 4 L sharps tub for disposal when it gets full ( about every two years)…..that PM 40 is a bit terrifying when you think what it was initially designed for :surprised:Comment
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Normally Swann-Morton 10 & 11 on a number 3 handle.
The No.10 for PE removal and removing the bulk of ejector pin marks (especially on internal curves).
The No.11 for everything else. I have found one particular edge of it...
([COLOR=rgb(226, 80, 65)]tried to attach pic but kept getting "Parsing Error Failed[/COLOR]")
...to be particularly useful for scraping fine or recessed areas.
In absence of a picture, it it the small flat edge on the back of the tip.
I usually reduce all my images to 800 x 800 pixels 1024 x 1024 max with no problems.Comment
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I use those retractable cutters from stationery shops with the 45 degree angle blade as opposed to the 39 degree ones. Sections can be broken off when that portion gets dull using the quick art studio method. Use it for everything from scraping, whittling, carving, glue application on plastic, paper, wood, polystyrene and resin.
I do have a set that Gary has from Aldi's I got when in Sydney but rarely use them. Have used the curved blade to slice off rivets and raised panel lines. Now I use a chisel blade for that
Cheers,
WabbleComment
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I use those retractable cutters from stationery shops with the 45 degree angle blade as opposed to the 39 degree ones. Sections can be broken off when that portion gets dull using the quick art studio method. Use it for everything from scraping, whittling, carving, glue application on plastic, paper, wood, polystyrene and resin.
I do have a set that Gary has from Aldi's I got when in Sydney but rarely use them. Have used the curved blade to slice off rivets and raised panel lines. Now I use a chisel blade for that
Cheers,
Wabble
Just returned from Lidls and no blade sets!!! I did return with a nice iced Chelsea bun!!! Nothing to do with modelling but very tasty!!!Comment
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I use a no.11 blade most of the time. Reasonably robust and pointed. A no.11P where I need a thinner, sharper point. A no.10 is my usual curved blade. A no.6 has a robust, longer, flatter curve and is rarely used. I also use a no.15 which has a very small curve, its mostly used to cut PE from the fret which unforunately wrecks blades quickly so fequent change are needed. Like Tim I buy blades in 100s for two reasons. Firstly they are cheaper by far and secondly having a lot of blades means I'm not reluctant to change blades so always have a sharp blade, I have a blade box like the one Tim showed. I do keep a few different used blades for scraping. I always use a no.3 handleComment
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I use primarily 10As and occasionally 10s for main building , and an 11 solely for masking canopies. ive also got some 15s but they are rarely needed . I scored a great bargain a few years ago when I got four boxes of 100 no 10A blades for £2 for the lot at a car boot . Needless to say , I havent bought any 10As for ages !!Comment
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