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  • Easyrider5258
    • Dec 2023
    • 79

    #16
    Thanks for all the replies,
    Going to stick with two max and not start another yet, had a problem with the decals on the Airfix spit, messed up fuselage lettering so delicate, also upper wing roundels to far out, got hold of another set of decals by buying another Airfix spitfire kit (cheap), ( I can now build the bare metal post war version later) removed old roundels with vinegar and sellotape tips from this forum and sorted fuselage lettering now got a bit of repainting to do before applying the wing roundels in correct position, happy days!

    Problems with decals maybe caused by using micro set / sol to liberally making decals too soft and delicate / fragile?

    Comment

    • boatman
      SMF Supporters
      • Nov 2018
      • 14451
      • christopher
      • NORFOLK UK

      #17
      just one at a time for me as mine are big an long builds
      chrisb

      Comment

      • Tim Marlow
        SMF Supporters
        • Apr 2018
        • 18892
        • Tim
        • Somerset UK

        #18
        Originally posted by Easyrider5258
        Thanks for all the replies,
        Going to stick with two max and not start another yet, had a problem with the decals on the Airfix spit, messed up fuselage lettering so delicate, also upper wing roundels to far out, got hold of another set of decals by buying another Airfix spitfire kit (cheap), ( I can now build the bare metal post war version later) removed old roundels with vinegar and sellotape tips from this forum and sorted fuselage lettering now got a bit of repainting to do before applying the wing roundels in correct position, happy days!

        Problems with decals maybe caused by using micro set / sol to liberally making decals too soft and delicate / fragile?
        Are you using the right solution at the right time? It’s blue for sliding them around, and red to get them settled in over the detail when they are dry. Once the red goes on you can’t touch them until they are dry again because it makes them very fragile.

        Comment

        • Easyrider5258
          • Dec 2023
          • 79

          #19
          Originally posted by Tim Marlow
          Are you using the right solution at the right time? It’s blue for sliding them around, and red to get them settled in over the detail when they are dry. Once the red goes on you can’t touch them until they are dry again because it makes them very fragile.
          Probably my fault, first kit for 40 years and first experience with these setting solutions, steep learning curve, relying on info on here and the web to learn:smiling:

          Comment

          • Tim Marlow
            SMF Supporters
            • Apr 2018
            • 18892
            • Tim
            • Somerset UK

            #20
            No worries Mark, that’s why I thought I’d say it. The instructions on the bottles are not really that clear……another trick is to use a wet paintbrush to move the decals around or unfold them. I always moisten the model surface first so the decals can be positioned. If you don’t they can grip the model and then tear when you try to slide them. Last hint for now, gloss varnishing the area where the decals are going can also help as it’s a smoother surface finish.

            Comment

            • JR
              • May 2015
              • 18273

              #21
              Originally posted by Waspie
              Just one for me. Partly because I'm new to the hobby but mainly because I always seem to have other things to do. Even being retired I find managing to find time to spend time on my model fairly difficult.
              As you get older Doug and especially as it's winter you'll find modelling time. However in the summer , now that's a different thing:smiling2:

              Comment

              • Easyrider5258
                • Dec 2023
                • 79

                #22
                Originally posted by Tim Marlow
                No worries Mark, that’s why I thought I’d say it. The instructions on the bottles are not really that clear……another trick is to use a wet paintbrush to move the decals around or unfold them. I always moisten the model surface first so the decals can be positioned. If you don’t they can grip the model and then tear when you try to slide them. Last hint for now, gloss varnishing the area where the decals are going can also help as it’s a smoother surface finish.
                Appreciate all the help and tips on here, I'm part way there, The model was glossed before decals, I do use wet paint brush and moisten model surface, it was just the use of the red at wrong time that caused the problems, think next attempt will be successful, ... Thanks again :thumb2:

                Comment

                • Richard48
                  SMF Supporters
                  • Apr 2018
                  • 1892
                  • Richard
                  • Clacton on Sea

                  #23
                  Ive got several on the go.Even a few kits made in 2015 that sit with no paint.I wonder if any of you are like me.I get a real burst of enthusiasm and then the initial interest wanes really fast.I think i finished 6 72nd kits last year and no 1.35th.I do consider at times culling a lot of the stash and go back to just a handful of models.Probably would regret it big time.
                  I did see a post on Facebook where a fella had around 200 Hasegawa 1.72nd Phantons all neat on shelves.He didnt build much and was told a lot of modellers are hoarders and selfish!!!.Stating that families are left to get rid of a collection when modeller passes!!!.
                  Bit harsh i feel.
                  Rich

                  Comment

                  • Scratchbuilder
                    • Jul 2022
                    • 2689

                    #24
                    Just the one at the moment on the bench, it's getting near to Nationals time and I need to get it and the base finished. I have another on the go, but at the moment sitting back in its box and another that I use a 'wonder what I can do next' pull out and put away when I have done a bit to it.
                    So at the moment it is:-
                    IDF Doher
                    FV432/120mm WOMBAT conversion.
                    LAV111
                    + 4 bases.

                    Comment

                    • BarryW
                      SMF Supporters
                      • Jul 2011
                      • 6010

                      #25
                      Originally posted by Richard48
                      Ive got several on the go.Even a few kits made in 2015 that sit with no paint.I wonder if any of you are like me.I get a real burst of enthusiasm and then the initial interest wanes really fast.I think i finished 6 72nd kits last year and no 1.35th.I do consider at times culling a lot of the stash and go back to just a handful of models.Probably would regret it big time.
                      I did see a post on Facebook where a fella had around 200 Hasegawa 1.72nd Phantons all neat on shelves.He didnt build much and was told a lot of modellers are hoarders and selfish!!!.Stating that families are left to get rid of a collection when modeller passes!!!.
                      Bit harsh i feel.
                      Rich
                      Interesting. I will only build one at a time and starting a new kit is the reward for finishing one. But then I do build primarily 1/32 scale aircraft which are inherently longer builds anyway. I agree about the burst of enthusiasm and, sometimes, it is possible to hit a ‘rough patch’ with a build but I know that if I don’t finish and start another I won’t return to the build. When such a ‘rough patch’ hits I will just set out to make a bit of progress each day, until suddenly, I am through that patch and get on with it when the enthusiasm picks up again…

                      I only keep a smallish stash, normally no higher than 10 kits and when one of those ‘rough patches’ hit I do research for a kit in the stash but take that no further than, perhaps, buying aftermarket.

                      Comment

                      • minitnkr
                        Charter Rabble member
                        • Apr 2018
                        • 7520
                        • Paul
                        • Dayton, OH USA

                        #26
                        The Microscale Blue is slippery water, mostly inert. The Red is the the snuggle stuff & much stronger, so best left when decal has dried in position. Most modern decals are pretty thin, but for those really thick stiff ones I have some Solva-Sol that is very strong.

                        Comment

                        • Waspie
                          • Mar 2023
                          • 3488
                          • Doug
                          • Fraggle Rock

                          #27
                          Originally posted by boatman
                          just one at a time for me as mine are big an long builds
                          chrisb
                          Understandable with the scales you tend to model in Chris!!!!! :smiling: :smiling:

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