FDM PLA 3D printing - with a model making inclination

[Dave Ward]

On the slippery slope now - I've paid for the files of a Matilda I This is actually in 1/56 scale, but I can upscale it to 1/35

This cost me 8 Euros, + tax - so not a vast outlay! I've yet to look at all the files, the hull & turret will probably be OK, but I think the tracks will be a stumbling block - This is probably more suited to resin printing than FDM, but we shall see. IF It can be done, I'll start a build log in the appropriate section
Dave

[minitnkr]

Were you just teasing us with the Bailey? I'll do mine if you'll do yours.

[Dave Ward]

Were you just teasing us with the Bailey? I'll do mine if you'll do yours.

I really need something to be going over the Bailey Bridge, and at the moment nothing in the stash is really calling out. I do have a Churchill AVRE, but I've looked at that many times in the past & put it back on the shelf. A point I hadn't really thought about was the total size of any diorama that holds a river wide enough to need a Bailey Bridge. As an aside, I've found a pontoon bridge, but in 1/35 the pontoons are just a bit too big to fit on the build plate - I may have a look at that later with a bit more printer time under my belt!
Dave

[Valeron]

Fascinating thread Dave. So interesting. Thanks for the hard work and research you're doing for us all.

Mike

[Dave Ward]

Fascinating thread Dave. So interesting. Thanks for the hard work and research you're doing for us all.

Mike

Thanks! - Just as well I'm retired, the 3D printing, software etc. really eats time - I've actually moved my clock to the side of my computer to remind me how fast it goes. I have to say that it is a pretty cheap project so far, OK, the printer cost a fair amount ( think a big Trumpeter kit ), but the running costs are pretty good - so far, I've gone throgh 2 X 1 kg spools of filament at around £11 a spool ( say 3 pints of beer )- that's in nearly 2 months of usage. I've had a fair amount of wastage so far, but that is decreasing.................
Dave

[Valeron]

That's pretty cheap to run actually. I had no idea.

Although I'd only get two pints of beer for £11 in St Albans and when I go into London, about a pint and a half.

[Dave Ward]

That's pretty cheap to run actually

And all the software I'm using is freeware - I;ve only paid for one model. the rest are free for personal use, off sites like Thingiverse & Cults. Incidentally, looking for ship models, I searched for 'corvette' - the large number of hits were for 3D printed clips & fasteners for the Chevy Corvette! Apparently a lot of small bits are no longer available & car restorers are turning to 3D printing to replace them, you can print in ABS & Nylon for greater strength..................
Dave

[Dave Ward]

A bit more experimenting, with models that need support - there are settings in the software to allow you vary the support structures, the problem being that it's different for every model, the only way is to try things out..................

I had a struggle getting the supports off the propane tank PLA is pretty tough stuff & the Stanley knife had to come into play!
Much more successful was the German Armoured Rail Car scaled to 1/72 - I'm still getting some irregularities in the surface finish, I think it's to do with the drive belt tensioning, which I'm working on! Slowing the print speed down will help, but this of course increases the print time.

This is about an hour into what will be the longest print so far - about ten hours by the slicer software prediction.....................
After several failures of models sticking to the build plate, I've had to start using a glue pen to pre-treat the plate ( like Pritt stick ). I have to wash the plate, every couple of days, in warm soapy water & get the nailbrush on it to remove the glue build up - being removeable helps, I was worried that the warm water would effect the plate magnetic material, but of course the plate heats up to 60C every time you print!
Dave

[Tim Marlow]

Looks like you are having a lot of fun with this Dave. I know you don’t have the room for one, but I bet you’ve had the occasional thought about a resin printer now

The plate is probably a ferrite magnet so should be good to temperatures well beyond boiling water Dave. It will lose magnetism as it heats up, but regain it as it cools again. This only becomes irreversible if the Curie temperature of the material is exceeded (about 180DegC for ferrite). Rare earth magnets, like neodymium, are much less robust, but I wouldn’t think your build plate is made from that.

[Jim R]

As Tim says it does sound as if you are enjoying this. Tank and rail car look good

[Dave Ward]

This was the result of 11 hours and 22 minutes - the software prediction was a bit off

This is the hull of the Matilda I in 1/35. It looks like a Lego model at the moment, as it has all the overhang supports still attached. These will be carefully removed, as you can't be absolutely certain which is model & which is support. A lot of the internal support will need digging out to accommodate the turret - which is printing out at the moment. I quite like the red filament, it seems to print very nicely
Dave

[Dave Ward]

This took the best part of 3 hours to print!

Needs a bit of sanding here & there, but not too bad - although blown up like this it looks rough!
There is an alternative turret with the hatch open, I might have a look at that...............
Dave

[JR]

You must be so pleased with the progress you have made Dave, I'm intrigued when you say you changed the scale ! Impressed very !

[Dave Ward]

you changed the scale ! Impressed very

John,
It's just a matter of altering a software setting - you don't actually have to do anything, just work out the ratio - for example if the file model is 1/24 scale, then to get 1/48 scale you have to use 0.5 as the setting ( 24/48 ). The difficulty comes if there isn't any scale quoted, which means a lot of trial and error! Which is OK, but sometimes it takes an hour or so of printing before you can see it is wrong!
This is what you find when the printer runs out of filament halfway.................

It's actually very strong - it can take my not inconsiderable weight! You can adjust the percentage 'fill', and the shape ( this is triangles ) - this is way overkill, but it's the default setting ( 20% ). Obviously the higher the fill, the longer it takes, the more filament it uses & the heavier it becomes - PLA doesn't float! . It's a matter of looking at the part & knowing what you can use, just one of the many settings you can play around with........
Dave

[Dave Ward]

The original home 3D printers were produced by Josef Prusa, and his PrusaSlicer software is still popular - he has a site https://www.printables.com/ there are some amazing free models and this caught my eye:

The USS St. Louis 1905 protected cruiser in 1/150 Scale! this will be 80cm long
All the models on the site are printable with FDM machines like mine & it looks an interesting place to visit. I'm not saying I'm going to have a go at this, but it looks very tempting!
Dave