How to build a Vac-Form Kit-Part 2

[wonwinglo]

Another view of the model now progressing nicely.



To pull everything together spray with a coat of Holts primer,this will give a first class finish for the final finish,she looks a long way from that single sheet of mundane plastic,just see what can be achieved,it is not difficult just requires lots of patience to get a result.

So this is what Vac-form modelling is all about,and you will probably have a model in your collection that is quite unique.

[Guest]

Hi Barry,

From a seasoned (old?) modeller, many thanks for clearing up the mysteries.

Chris

[wonwinglo]

Hi Barry,From a seasoned (old?) modeller, many thanks for clearing up the mysteries.

Chris

*** Glad to oblige Chris,when vac-forms first came out people flocked to purchase them,many were just trashed in flustration which is such a pity as there are some superb rare subjects that have been covered,in fact the Airmodel range from which my tutorial model was built were probably the most basic of any of the range,the best in my humble opinion were the ones produced by a company called 'Rareplanes' which had surface detail equal to those of injection moulded kits.

Vac forms have had a bit of a revival with the appearance of the Dynavector multi media kit range of subjects in recent years,this is probably the best approach,ie basic vac forms for the fuselage,wings etc with white metal fittings for wheels/undercarriages etc coupled with even resin mouldings,what a feast for the modeller to get his hands on ! the whole package spells 'Challenge'

[Guest]

Barry,

The main problem I had when trying earlier models, or should I say, in earlier times, was getting an even pressure on the parts while sanding down. The T section shown in the photo's looks as though it will cure my problem of this, giving me the confidence to go back to the De Havilland Dove/Devon I always wanted to build. Have the kit, now have the get up and go to tackle it. Let you all know how it goes I hope. Meanwhile back to the ships!

Regards

Chris

[wonwinglo]

Barry,The main problem I had when trying earlier models, or should I say, in earlier times, was getting an even pressure on the parts while sanding down. The T section shown in the photo's looks as though it will cure my problem of this, giving me the confidence to go back to the De Havilland Dove/Devon I always wanted to build. Have the kit, now have the get up and go to tackle it. Let you all know how it goes I hope. Meanwhile back to the ships!

Regards

Chris

*** Chris,I have built that same DeHavilland Dove/Devon vac-form kit,it is not a bad model and a good one to start on.Yes the T-Bar surpasses everything else that has been tried in my opinion,the secret is very similar to when using a saw,let the abrasive do the cutting with a slight pressure onto the part being sanded flush,keep a wary eye on the black marker pen line if it starts to vanish one end then stop,then change ends and apply gentle pressure to the other.No doubt about it there is a knack to getting the sides flat,the larger the model the bigger the problem,I have parts cut out for a Blohn & Voss Bv.222 German flying boat,all six engines,the large hull needed great care.Yes please do let us know how you get on with the Dove.

[Guest]

Thanks Barry,

One more question if I may.

What grade of wet and dry would you recommend to start with?

Cheers

Chris

[wonwinglo]

Thanks Barry,One more question if I may.

What grade of wet and dry would you recommend to start with?

Cheers

Chris

***Chris,I buy these cheap £ shop packs of wet & dry,get through loads of the stuff,the most useful for the initial sand down is No.80 you can actually use anything quite rough,just ease back on the pressure,a good tip is to have one of those squirty bottles handy,keep the paper surface wet all of the time,you will see a white mulch develope as you progress,thats a good sign,the whole operation is quite theraputic,I usually do all of the sanding first and make myself a kit of parts to take into the workshop to get cracking on,good luck !