Fed up with stuff spread everywhere and invisible, I needed a big version of a desk tidy. I couldn't find one so I made it.
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It's made of tubing. I couldn't find anything the right size. Builders' supplies had drainage pipe: far too big and ยฃ40 a piece, or too small: water pipery. As it happens, we have a very small dining table which we extended by placing up to a full 8x4 ft. chipboard sheet (in three pieces to make several sizes in combination). To support the end corners we bought four steel screw-on legs which are just the right size for my tubing. I twice wrapped two sheets of 0.25mm poly sheet on top of each other and glued them, then cut to length. With Evostick Resin W they were glued to the base which is 1/4" thick plywood with a sheet of 1 mm thick poly glued on with Resin W. The paint is glossy British Racing Green (Tamiya Synthetic Lacquer, also used for my 1/16 Rolls-Royce Phantom II Continental 1934). It took quite a long time to make, but it works a treat. Very strong and rigid.
I am not an artist but I did a lot of stoneware pottery years ago in a home pottery. I learned from Bernard Leach, the famous Cornish (or Devonian) potter, producing had thrown holloware, with throwing rings, (now long out of fashion). His book "A Potter's Book" is a classic. He taught that lines, or shapes, when they terminated, need to have a "statement" at their end. For example, a brush stroke depicting a long leaf should end in a slight curl, or the lip of a drinking vessel should be turned outward very slightly and thickened, again very slightly. Have a look at this stoneware mug:
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The rim is shaped.The foot ring is clearly separate from the base which it terminates. A flat base seems ugly. It is for that reason I put a 2.4 mm "beading" round the top of each cylinder (last pic). Leaving it just sharply cut looked very brutal.
A word about Evostick Resin W (I don't have shares in them). It was developed years ago to stick laminate on to work surfaces. Out of the tube it is very sticky, allowing movement of the modelling parts (if needed for accurate positioning) up to 10 minutes after which it is solid. Also, if the parts with glue on them are allowed to dry for 10 minutes, putting them together makes the joint immediately. It is very strong. Excellent for adding small parts, no holding needed. (Think of those tiny lumps of metal, 2 mm long, sticking out of a 1/72 Lancaster bomber's tail parts!) Its much less chancy than using Super Glue. It can be used for wood, the parts being handleable within 20 minutes.
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It's made of tubing. I couldn't find anything the right size. Builders' supplies had drainage pipe: far too big and ยฃ40 a piece, or too small: water pipery. As it happens, we have a very small dining table which we extended by placing up to a full 8x4 ft. chipboard sheet (in three pieces to make several sizes in combination). To support the end corners we bought four steel screw-on legs which are just the right size for my tubing. I twice wrapped two sheets of 0.25mm poly sheet on top of each other and glued them, then cut to length. With Evostick Resin W they were glued to the base which is 1/4" thick plywood with a sheet of 1 mm thick poly glued on with Resin W. The paint is glossy British Racing Green (Tamiya Synthetic Lacquer, also used for my 1/16 Rolls-Royce Phantom II Continental 1934). It took quite a long time to make, but it works a treat. Very strong and rigid.
I am not an artist but I did a lot of stoneware pottery years ago in a home pottery. I learned from Bernard Leach, the famous Cornish (or Devonian) potter, producing had thrown holloware, with throwing rings, (now long out of fashion). His book "A Potter's Book" is a classic. He taught that lines, or shapes, when they terminated, need to have a "statement" at their end. For example, a brush stroke depicting a long leaf should end in a slight curl, or the lip of a drinking vessel should be turned outward very slightly and thickened, again very slightly. Have a look at this stoneware mug:
.
The rim is shaped.The foot ring is clearly separate from the base which it terminates. A flat base seems ugly. It is for that reason I put a 2.4 mm "beading" round the top of each cylinder (last pic). Leaving it just sharply cut looked very brutal.
A word about Evostick Resin W (I don't have shares in them). It was developed years ago to stick laminate on to work surfaces. Out of the tube it is very sticky, allowing movement of the modelling parts (if needed for accurate positioning) up to 10 minutes after which it is solid. Also, if the parts with glue on them are allowed to dry for 10 minutes, putting them together makes the joint immediately. It is very strong. Excellent for adding small parts, no holding needed. (Think of those tiny lumps of metal, 2 mm long, sticking out of a 1/72 Lancaster bomber's tail parts!) Its much less chancy than using Super Glue. It can be used for wood, the parts being handleable within 20 minutes.
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