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Track Link Jig

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  • Steve Jones
    • Apr 2018
    • 6615

    #1

    Track Link Jig

    .
  • stillp
    SMF Supporters
    • Nov 2016
    • 8093
    • Pete
    • Rugby

    #2
    Have you seen this:

    Pete

    Comment

    • Guest

      #3
      For which type of track? Sherman tracks, for example, I find not too hard to assemble on a simple stick, so that the guide horns can stick down on both sides.

      You may also be able to make a jig from epoxy putty: build a length of track (say, five to ten links), knead some epoxy together, place a piece of cling film over it, and press the track into it. Once the epoxy has hardened, you should have a jig that you can put loose links into for assembly.

      Comment

      • Jim F
        SMF Supporters
        • Feb 2015
        • 317

        #4
        Hi Steve,
        I'm sure you have some off cuts of wood that you could use as a base buy one length of beading and you have the ingredients for numerous track jigs.
        regards Jim

        Comment

        • Steve Jones
          • Apr 2018
          • 6615

          #5
          Now there is an idea Pete:thumb2: Dont have the plastic but maybe use wood
          Its to be universal Jakko. Like the one in Pete's link where you can move it up and down to make sure the length of track is straight and square
          I think wood is the way to go Jim. I just need to work out some sort of adjusting mechanism

          Comment

          • Jim F
            SMF Supporters
            • Feb 2015
            • 317

            #6
            Hi Steve,
            In the short term I wouldn't worry about it being adjustable, just make1 jig at a time until you can design the perfect solution
            regards Jim
            PS once you've perfected the design let me know as I might want to buy one

            Comment

            • Gern
              SMF Supporters
              • May 2009
              • 9214

              #7
              Would this work?

              A plywood base with a fixed batten along one edge.

              A moveable batten with two holes drilled for bolts.

              Two slots cut in the base the same distance apart as the holes (Cut with a router or a series of holes and a coping saw. Alternatively you could cut two slots down the length of the base if you haven't got any way of cutting holes).

              Two bolts with wingnuts and washers to clamp the moveable batten.

              Comment

              • Steve Jones
                • Apr 2018
                • 6615

                #8
                I was thinking about that myself tonite Jim. I would probably use it once or twice a year and it would not take much to make a fixed one each time

                As for the perfect solution I hand you over to Dave.

                That was the solution that was in my head Dave but had no idea how to put it into practice. My DIY skills and tools are limited so I may not be able to go as far as this. However that is the solution and I suggest you patent it:smiling5::smiling3:

                Many thanks everyone for your input. I will rig something up tomorrow:thumb2::thumb2:

                Comment

                • JR
                  • May 2015
                  • 18273

                  #9
                  Excuse me Steve.
                  Originally posted by stillp
                  Have you seen this:

                  Pete
                  Pete, great idea, I like the fact that CA will not stick to it. Ordered a board from Evilbay[ATTACH]327636[/ATTACH].Only £3.69 , have some tool handles in workshop.
                  John .
                  Attached Files

                  Comment

                  • Si Benson
                    • Apr 2018
                    • 3572

                    #10
                    Morning Steve,
                    Interested to see where your quest takes you. I’ve always used two steel rules for assembly of the small tracks but would like to make something a bit better!

                    Comment

                    • Guest

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Steve Jones
                      Its to be universal Jakko. Like the one in Pete's link where you can move it up and down to make sure the length of track is straight and square
                      Then the epoxy putty method isn’t going to work, no. But the one in the video Pete posted isn’t as universal as it may look — it’ll be tricking using it with tracks with end connectors, I think. OTOH, it should work well enough with other types, so if you don’t intend to build Shermans, M60s, Leopards, etc. you’ll probably be fine

                      Comment

                      • Dave Ward
                        SMF Supporters
                        • Apr 2018
                        • 10549

                        #12
                        I've made track jigs before, but now I use a simple assembly, which is variable, and generally can be made from bits you have to hand.................[ATTACH]327653[/ATTACH]
                        Two metal strips ( not wood - you will glue the track links to it ) - I had some aluminium - 12mm x 3mm section length immaterial.
                        With a central guide horn on the links, use a spacer between the clamps, to suit the width - in this case a 2p coin.
                        [ATTACH]327654[/ATTACH]
                        [ATTACH]327655[/ATTACH]

                        With 2 guide horns sandwich metal strips, so the links straddle the jig.[ATTACH]327656[/ATTACH]
                        I used a steel rule, and some brass strip!
                        As long as the strips are metal - and straight!, you should be able to accommodate any width.
                        If the links don't have guide teeth, I simply use one of the metal strips as a straight edge to build against, using another strip to occasionally level the parts.
                        Sadly, I've not yet found an easy way to assemble end connector links - I think I have a Stuart somewhere, that I gave up on individual links, to preserve my sanity.
                        Dave
                        Attached Files

                        Comment

                        • Guest

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Dave Ward
                          Sadly, I've not yet found an easy way to assemble end connector links - I think I have a Stuart somewhere, that I gave up on individual links, to preserve my sanity.
                          What you could do is use strips of the same width as the links between the end connectors, or slightly narrower — but certainly not wider. This way you could clamp links between the metal strips (you wouldn’t need spacers) and slide the end connectors on on both sides. One minor problem would be that you can only assemble pieces of a certain length, that you’ll then have to join outside the jig.

                          Comment

                          • JR
                            • May 2015
                            • 18273

                            #14
                            Dave I remember that jig well, in fact you mentioned it when I was having problems on MM , got the parts and it did the job .
                            Originally posted by Dave Ward
                            I've made track jigs before, but now I use a simple assembly, which is variable, and generally can be made from bits you have to hand.................[ATTACH]327653[/ATTACH]
                            Two metal strips ( not wood - you will glue the track links to it ) - I had some aluminium - 12mm x 3mm section length immaterial.
                            With a central guide horn on the links, use a spacer between the clamps, to suit the width - in this case a 2p coin.
                            [ATTACH]327654[/ATTACH]
                            [ATTACH]327655[/ATTACH]

                            With 2 guide horns sandwich metal strips, so the links straddle the jig.[ATTACH]327656[/ATTACH]
                            I used a steel rule, and some brass strip!
                            As long as the strips are metal - and straight!, you should be able to accommodate any width.
                            If the links don't have guide teeth, I simply use one of the metal strips as a straight edge to build against, using another strip to occasionally level the parts.
                            Sadly, I've not yet found an easy way to assemble end connector links - I think I have a Stuart somewhere, that I gave up on individual links, to preserve my sanity.
                            Dave

                            Comment

                            • Guest

                              #15
                              Hello Pete,
                              You wanted cheap.
                              Spare wood from shed, 1/4 inch from old rocket sticks and odd plastic oh and one bit of bent brass wire.
                              For Sherman types etc.

                              [ATTACH]327847[/ATTACH]
                              And for all others or almost with centre track guide...

                              [ATTACH]327848[/ATTACH]
                              Hope this idea helps,
                              Cheers, Mike.

                              Comment

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