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Filling gaps on 3D printed models

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  • Gern
    SMF Supporters
    • May 2009
    • 9203

    #1

    Filling gaps on 3D printed models

    I forgot to ask earlier (b****y typical!).

    I have Vallejo Plastic Putty, Tamiya White and Grey putties, Squadron Green and Milliput. Which one of these would be easiest to use to fill tiny gaps on a 3D printed kit?
  • Dave Ward
    SMF Supporters
    • Apr 2018
    • 10549

    #2
    Originally posted by Gern
    I forgot to ask earlier (b****y typical!).

    I have Vallejo Plastic Putty, Tamiya White and Grey putties, Squadron Green and Milliput. Which one of these would be easiest to use to fill tiny gaps on a 3D printed kit?
    I'd say, depends on how big a gap is tiny! I like Squadron Green - never used any Tamiya putty, can't get on with Vallejo, and Milliput is good for larger gaps, but wasteful. ( I always mix too much! ). I use Perfect Plastic Putty, being water soluble, it's easy to clean up with a damp cotton bud before it sets hard, reducing clean up time. I'd go with Green - but I'd experiment on how well it stick to the resin first. Most of my recent use is with FDM printing & no idea if the resin can be treated the same way!
    Dave

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    • Neil Merryweather
      SMF Supporters
      • Dec 2018
      • 5175
      • London

      #3
      Hi Dave,it's an acrylic resin so I imagine an acrylic filler would work. At work in the film industry I always used car body filler - that works for sure.

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      • Tim Marlow
        SMF Supporters
        • Apr 2018
        • 18873
        • Tim
        • Somerset UK

        #4
        Cellulose Car body filler and Tamiya filler are quite similar in my experience. It is very good for shallow holes and depressions because it sticks very well and can be sanded to a fine edge when dry. Filler from the “Mr” range (probably called Mr filling putty, but I can’t remember ) is also good at this. PPP Acrylic filler doesn’t stick that well in my experience so is best kept for cracks and seams, where it excels due to easy clean up. Large mechanical strength filling is where I’d use milliput, again cleaned up with water. I think if these fillers stick to smooth plastic and cast resin (which they do) then they should stick to printed resin.
        Failing that, assume CA can be used for assembly, old school superglue and talc mix will probably work, but the clean up will be a little more difficult.

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        • Gary MacKenzie
          SMF Supporter
          • Apr 2018
          • 1057
          • Gary
          • Forres , Moray , Scotland

          #5
          Outside your list

          talcum powder and superglue @
          baking soda and superglue @

          Revell do a glue that you use a UV light to harden/cure, could try that too

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          • Gern
            SMF Supporters
            • May 2009
            • 9203

            #6
            Thanks for all the replies folks.

            The only gap I have is where the two halves of the tractor body join and it's very small. I'll be joining them with CA, and I've just bought some with a brush applicator. I'll be using plenty so there's a chance that will fill the gap anyway. If not, it seems I should be able to use any of the putties I have as the thing is made from some sort of acrylic. I'll try the Vallejo first as that cleans up with water and a cotton bud so no sanding. Yippee!

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            • langy71
              SMF Supporters
              • Apr 2018
              • 1947
              • Chris
              • Nottingham

              #7
              The last resin figure I did I used Vallejo plastic putty ...(the white stuff) to close up a few very small join lines, works brilliantly on small gaps, for bigger stuff I'm used some 'revell' plasto stuff, (it's not bad, dries quickly and can be thinned with revell contacta glue..

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