Making serrated rib tapes for fabric-covered wings can be a problem but this simple tool can at least speed up the process even if it still remains a mind-numbing job. In essence it consists of a hacksaw blade fitted to a length of pine, the rib tape material is trapped against the blade and torn into strips.
Hacksaw blades come in many shapes and sizes so choose one that will produce serrations of an appropriate size for the model you are building. My Elf was 1/6 th scale and 18 teeth to the inch seemed about right.
I’ll briefly describe the design but a quick look at the photo below will I’m sure make things much clearer. 2 screws attach the blade to a length of pine, hinged to another length that is used to trap the rib material against the blade. Drill 2 holes for the screw heads to allow the blade to fit tightly when the 2 pieces are brought together and draw a line parallel to the blade to help align the paper for tearing.
The best material for the tapes that I’ve found to date is high quality tracing paper, but by all means experiment and if you find anything better then please let me know! Fasten the paper down to stop it curling, give one side a coat of Balsaloc and leave it to dry overnight. Mark the edges of the paper at the width of tapes required.
The more solid you can support the tool the better; I use a large vice attached to a substantial workbench. Put the paper in the tool with the glued side towards you, align the edge marks with the line on the tool and grip it in the vice. The paper has a definite “grain” so try tearing in different directions to find the easiest, actually tearing the paper takes a bit of practice so expect to have a few failures until you get the knack. After the first tear move the paper down so the next edge marks are in place and tear again.
The rib stitching is embossed from the glued side, make a paper guide to ensure even spacing and press gently with a precision screwdriver.
The tapes are now fixed over the rib positions etc. with a film covering iron, don’t use too much pressure on the embossed “stitching” and you’ll end up with a very realistic rib tape.
Hopefully the attached photos will encourage you to “have a go” on your next scale model, you’ll be amazed at the increase in the level of realism and strange as it seems they are very visible in flight!
Just had a look at the attachments and the one of the finished tapes isn't very good, for better views click on the link Another Parnall Elf
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[IMG]/monthly_2004_12/57272b6cc3e50_ribtapes.jpg.55ba0d668d763bbf0c5bec5 a20de8d9a.jpg[/IMG]
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[IMG]/monthly_2004_12/57272b6cc15f0_RibTapeTool2.jpg.84c4f38b601990659a7 4aed1d3e8940c.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]/monthly_2004_12/57272b6cc068b_RibTapeTool.jpg.2162ec1718382cdf6590 eac0104d579e.jpg[/IMG]
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Hacksaw blades come in many shapes and sizes so choose one that will produce serrations of an appropriate size for the model you are building. My Elf was 1/6 th scale and 18 teeth to the inch seemed about right.
I’ll briefly describe the design but a quick look at the photo below will I’m sure make things much clearer. 2 screws attach the blade to a length of pine, hinged to another length that is used to trap the rib material against the blade. Drill 2 holes for the screw heads to allow the blade to fit tightly when the 2 pieces are brought together and draw a line parallel to the blade to help align the paper for tearing.
The best material for the tapes that I’ve found to date is high quality tracing paper, but by all means experiment and if you find anything better then please let me know! Fasten the paper down to stop it curling, give one side a coat of Balsaloc and leave it to dry overnight. Mark the edges of the paper at the width of tapes required.
The more solid you can support the tool the better; I use a large vice attached to a substantial workbench. Put the paper in the tool with the glued side towards you, align the edge marks with the line on the tool and grip it in the vice. The paper has a definite “grain” so try tearing in different directions to find the easiest, actually tearing the paper takes a bit of practice so expect to have a few failures until you get the knack. After the first tear move the paper down so the next edge marks are in place and tear again.
The rib stitching is embossed from the glued side, make a paper guide to ensure even spacing and press gently with a precision screwdriver.
The tapes are now fixed over the rib positions etc. with a film covering iron, don’t use too much pressure on the embossed “stitching” and you’ll end up with a very realistic rib tape.
Hopefully the attached photos will encourage you to “have a go” on your next scale model, you’ll be amazed at the increase in the level of realism and strange as it seems they are very visible in flight!
Just had a look at the attachments and the one of the finished tapes isn't very good, for better views click on the link Another Parnall Elf
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[IMG]/monthly_2004_12/57272b6cc3e50_ribtapes.jpg.55ba0d668d763bbf0c5bec5 a20de8d9a.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]/monthly_2004_12/57272b6cc310e_RibTape2.jpg.ba04a8b0faff9ce5bf5485d f7b5e03b1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]/monthly_2004_12/57272b6cc2359_RibTape.jpg.8c2aaa3ec87bbd8a06c1ae6a 8acb7bd3.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]/monthly_2004_12/57272b6cc15f0_RibTapeTool2.jpg.84c4f38b601990659a7 4aed1d3e8940c.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]/monthly_2004_12/57272b6cc068b_RibTapeTool.jpg.2162ec1718382cdf6590 eac0104d579e.jpg[/IMG]
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