Hi all they come in many sizes I have used empty spray cans for all sorts of things cylindrical (take great care here and wear goggles) I drill a small 1.5mm hole in them to empty the propellant and as an example of use I use 2 for the funnels on the Waverley (took a while to find the right size) and used one for the boiler on the Mississippi. Sternwheeler.
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Knobs !
Ever had trouble with yours? Of course I mean the various knobs and balls we sometimes need to scratchbuild for all sorts of applications . I recently had to make a ball ended lever for the Mig 15 and struggled to get it looking right , I traditionally just put a blob of pva on the end of the lever but it usually goes a funny pear shape when dry so needs several goes to get it looking right.Then I had a brainwave while browsing the nail and cosmetics dept of the local poundland (yes , i can hear you all saying "again!!" , honest - I'm not a drag artist) I got these beauties
Theyre called caviar nail effects and are basically an assortment of tiny coloured balls , designed to be stuck on fingernails . The good bit for us is that theyre perfectly round and are variously sized so make perfect knobs for whatever. I stuck one on a piece of stretched sprue and it looked great. Some of the smaller sized ones could also be used for switches etc
Also very useful but for larger scale stuff such as car gear levers or 1/35 tankie type stuff , are the bristles on hair brushes . The ones with the knobbly bristles can be found in various sizes and usually in the poundshops (or you could just keep snipping a few off the missus' hairbrush , but dont blame me if you get caught!!)
cheers Tony
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Very useful. I have squirrelled this away.Comment
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Imagination.
Ingenuity.
Patience.
Impatience.
Observation.
Artistic ability.
Skill.
Organisational skill.
Temper.
An occasional hate of model making.
God forgive me for all of my blasphemy.
LaurieComment
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Just gone through this thread from the start. Tony - do you LIVE on the cosmetics counter in your pound shop?
For folks using small quantities of paint for touch-up or detail work, use an ordinary household wall tile with a smooth glazed finish. Put your paints close enough and you can use the tile like an artist's palette to mix colours. Don't bother washing the paint off. Wait 'til it dries and it will scrape off with a razor blade.
GernComment
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Just realised I forgot the pics:Originally posted by \
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On the back of Dave's good idea - if you're mixing up paint to see how it might look, sheet of tin foil & masking tape labels works well :[ATTACH]83175.IPB[/ATTACH]
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on a simler vein, i have one of those little artists mixing thingys with 6 little spots for mixing etc, use it for making washes, i always cover in tin foil cos then i dont have to clean it afterwards, just peel off the foil and bin itPer Ardua
We'll ride the spiral to the end and may just go where no ones beenComment
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idk anyone mensioned before. DOT 3 Brake Fluid works well to remove paint from model. put your model inside it for 2-3 days. paint will be removed. Plastic wont be damaged.you can use it again and again. contain it very well and dont touch it w/o gloves, it is highly toxic.
all brands work well but i suggest good quality onesComment
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You know when youve made a model and there's those plastic frame things that hold the parts before you put the model together? Well if you take those and cut them down to an appropriate size, and then paint them, you can either use them for the frames of a blownup building or wooden fences
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Hi, new here, few posts asking for advice, I was informed that fine grit sand paper makes realistic tarmac, thinking on this, have you guys considered using skateboard griptape? No need to glue or colour as chances are it'll be black, and is already adhesive. Going to be experimenting with this idea myself, just thought I'd pass the idea on.Comment
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Ok here is one for all you diorama builders, how to make great looking pine needles for trees, first take a ball of sisal string and some clothing dye in green. Sisal sting I hear you ask that is the old fashioned brown coloured stuff you can get from amazon... don't use the new polyester type stuff as it will not take the dye. Take your dye and plonk it in water cut up lengths of Sisal sting and submerge it in the dye, once the dye has full taken usually after a few hour remove the string and hang up to dry. Once the string is dry unravel it slightly and cut it up in very small lengths or bits, we are now ready to apply it to our trees to make coniferous trees, you can also scatter it around the base of your trees to make fallen pine needles. hope this is useful.
scottComment
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That's a good idea. I have some brown gardening twine which seems just like Amazon's "Oasis Mossing Jute Twine String". I have cut it up into 1 cm lengths for spiky green growths and now have your idea of pine needles. Thanks for that.Comment
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Hi, I used Halfords grey primer on a kit, but I seemed to get a very coarse finish, have you noticed this, or what could be the cause?Originally posted by \Comment
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I prefer the Poundshop primer, but try warming the can in a saucepan of hot water. Obviously not boiling - straight from your kitchen hot tap will do.Originally posted by \
Stand it for 5 minutes before agitating the can, then the full 2 minute shake (you can add a circular swirling motion)
Rub the model down with IPA or an automotive tack cloth to remove dust & skin oils.
Start off with a couple of light mist coats to prepare the surface. When spraying, keep the can close to the model - about 6" is fine so the primer goes down 'wet'.
If you've done all this already Dan.... try a different brand of primer or a new can!
Cheers
PatrickComment
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