Photo Etching - Please give your advice before I make a costly mistake...

[Guest]

Hi guys, its Chris Newbie here again.

As you may know I've bought aftermarket goodies for my 1:32 Trumpeter Swordfish mk1 and am doing some "how to" research before buggering up the model...

...anyways, I have obtained two sets of photo etched harnesses (MDC Q Type Harnesses) and would like your help please? I have trawled the excellent new look forum for some info but there's little on offer so here's a few newbie basic questions...

1. First off - as expected the peices are tiny, though I would like your advice on what specific tools would you recommend to remove each item from the plate without damage? Would a scalpel do the job?

2. When piecing the items together or applying the items to your model, how would it be best to fold / bend to place them without kinking/snapping them?

3. When, with what, and how would you apply paints to the photo etch?

4. I believe superglue gel is the product to use though if you think there's a better one... please advise?

5. Any further advice would be welcome.

Thanks again,

Chris

[Guest]

Hi Chris, lol photo-etch is the bane of my life, having been wrestling with it for a kit that I've been putting together for the part few days. I use a normal x-acto knife for cutting the bits off tho I'd recommend using a hard base to prevent them deforming-I use a piece of slate. Some people say that applying a flame to the brass works well to make them more pliable (after its cooled down!) but I've found using either tweesers or pliers to be fine for holding the parts. Then I use the knife blade to fold on straight bends. For curves, I use whatever is to hand that fits the curve required. This can be a little hit & miss! For painting, you can use anything but I like to prime the metal first. Any CA glue works fine but you may want to use 5 minute expoxy to allow more time for positioning-I've also used white glue coz even though it doesn't hold as well, the subsequent coats of paint will bond it to the surface. Be prepared for spending lots of time on your hands & knees though! Good luck Patrick

[Guest]

Thanks Patrick for the advice, I can see why you laugh about this topic as I can see loads of trouble ahead with these harnesses... yeah, I've got the x-acto type knife for the job - although a peice of slate - I don't. Will the usual xcutting board do the job or do you get a degree of deformation? Heh, wasn't counting on burning the etch though if it goes pair shaped I might just do that! Good call on the glues and thanks again for the luck as I will need it! I shall keep you posted on this one though I got plenty to do before I even start the harnesses.

Cheers

Chris

[Guest]

I would definately avoid a standard cutting board-learning that lesson cost me a few tiny bits, not to mention much hair! Any hard surface will do, though not your granite kitchen worktops or SWMBO will be very displeased! Keep plugging away, and be prepared for the surprise of how far a wee piece of brass can travel when it hits the carpet-my record is 3 feet! Not bad for something that must weigh 0.003gm & falling just a couple of feet! Patrick

[Gern]

Hi Chris,

I'll second all the comments about using a hard surface to save the parts bending when you cut them. I'd suggest you stick a piece of masking tape to the back of the etch before you cut it though. It should stop the cut piece flying off and you'll avoid the problem of fighting the 'Carpet Monster' to get your bits back! You could also use it to hold the piece while you paint it.

Gern

[stona]

Hi Chris,not much to add,just a couple of points. Firstly,whilst still on the fret, i would definitely anneal the parts to be bent or rolled. Heat them up then leave them to cool down (i put them on an old ceramic tile to cool). The parts will be much easier to bend.You don't need to bother with parts that don't need much shaping.

The tape idea is a good one to stop bits flying away, I'm going to try that one myself. I cut by rocking a curved blade on the part rather than slicing,but I don't suppose there is a right or wrong way,just what works for you.

You can buy expensive bending tools but I use a combination of pliers,tweezers,aStanley blade as a straight edge,drill bits for rolling around and anything else that comes to hand!

I think the chaps got everything else,for bits you are confident of placing first time you can add a drop of CA accelerant to the superglue for a virtually instant bond. Watch that you don't stick yourself to the model rather than the etched part Mmmmm!

Good luck with it.

Cheers

Steve

As an applicator for small drops of CA glue I make my own. Nick a sewing needle from Swmbo's tool box and cut off the top of the eye leavingf an open U shape.....perfect.

[Guest]

wow, that's great guys - really appreciate the helpful comments and has given me some confidence when it comes to the photo-etching. The applicator idea is something I would have never have thought of Steve, thanks!

As I'm about to start the model, I'm seriously thinking on running a blog (thanks John for this new feature) so all you guys can help me through the life of this new project. What I'd like to do is run through from start to finish, ie the washing of sprues to looking at what tools are necessary for particular jobs, painting, detailing, weathering etc etc. So if I explain what I'm about to do and receive advice before I make a mistake. This way, you all have a hand in completing this model with me What do you think?

[Guest]

That's a great idea Chris. I think blogs will work better than the usual threads, plus give other people an easy way to see projects from start to finish. Patrick

[stona]

Good idea Chris,particularly as it's a model of an aircraft I've always liked.In my crystal ball I see questions about aircraft dope finishes in the not far distant future. If you are doing L7647 I may have some interesting colour data that may conflict with the kit instructions!

Steve

[yak face]

hi chris all the above advice is excellent, all you need to know. I'll just add that ,as steve says, annealing the photo etch fret (heating up till it changes colour then leaving to cool-i usually do this over the gas ring on the cooker holding it in pliers) will really help to make the belts easier to bend more realistically.Also bulldog clips are quite useful for bending tools, good luck and cant wait to see the string bag in progress, cheers mate tony

[stona]

I heat the etch over gas ring as Tony suggests. If you are nervous about burning it I got this tip of a friend who'd done exactly that. Heat the oven to flat out (9/400) put the etch in for an hour then turn off the oven and allow to cool,overnight is ideal. Apparently it works but I'm not sure what it does to your gas/electric bill!

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Heh, I don't think SWMBO would like her brand new Rangemaster oven being used as a copper smelting furnace! ...so I'll use it when she's out shopping...lol Lets hope that it doesn't stick to her baking tray when I use it. Well chaps, I have kicked off the blog, lets see how it goes, I hope to post a blog after each model session with attached pics to the show the progress. Thanks again for your advice.

Chris

[Ian M]

I solder larger parts, and swear and curse and generally get super-gluede things to every thing except the place it is ment to be. I have just read about Gator Glue whice has been formulated for PE. And it says that it dont stick skin, so thats a bonus.

An other ting I find useful is a black apron, you know like the one you put on when you light the grill in the garden.

Also a thing I might try soon is to treat the brass to turn it black. Less strain on the eyes, and less obvous if you chip the paint, (dont shine through!).

Most of my bending is done with a cheap pair of "jewlery" pliers, like the ones you can by in an arts and crafts shop.

A sheet of thickish glass to cut on. You could put a sheet of black paper on the back to help see things.

Small fine files to remove the cut offs. Even if you cut right up to the edge, there is nearly always a part that is higher or just rough.

Some other things that comes in handy. A magnifing glass for the really tiny bits. (trust me you can cut bits in halv by mistake)

A really powerfull tourch. Then when you drop a bit on the floor, shine it across the floor and the culprit will shine right back at you.

Take your time!!!

Good luck

[Gern]

Hi Chris,

With regard to bending PE, I don't know how much you have to do, but I got hold of one of these. It didn't cost a fortune and is very easy to use - at least with the smaller bits. For thicker/larger pieces, you're probably just as well off with annealing/heating or pliers etc. as the other guys have mentioned.

AeroScale :: Tool Review: Flip-R5 PE Bending Tool by Rowan Baylis

Gern

[Guest]

Hi chris the only thing i have to add to this is prime and paint the parts whilst on the spuce, in my experience with my schnellboot trying to paint small metal parts once attached especially inside a cockpit is more trouble than it's worth.

scott