Weathering questions

[Guest]

Hey everyone. Sorry If some of these weathering questions have already been asked in the forum, I tried to locate some threads and didn't really find what I was looking for.

I just finished a Sherman tank, and will be building another one and a few more tanks. It is my second tank and I am pretty happy with it. I tried to apply a wash (with the help of a thread here) with water mixed with black paint (because the sherman tank is a dark green) and it worked out alright. But now I want to do some weathering. I did weathering on one model before and that was a Panzer IV tank. I experimented with some things. I have a few questions.

1) I saw a video on youtube of someone using Mig Pigments mixed with PVA and some kind of varnish. I saw the prices of these pigments and they are almost $10 AUS each!! As some people may know I like to do things cheaply and do not invest a lot of money into my hobby (the most expensive thing ive bought for this would have to be a Primer and grasses). So Is there an alternative to Pigments? Are dry pastels good enough?

2) Are those Tamiya weathering kits really worth it or can you purchase them cheap makeup packs from them cheap stores? (Tamiya 3 colours = $15AUS, Makeup > 6 = $5).

3) I've read up on dry brushing and did use it with Vietnam soldiers, but can you apply that technique for tanks and how would you go about it?

4) Is it better to use pigments with water/pva/etc or acyrlic/enamel paints and thinner??

I think I have covered the important weathering techniques? Pastels/Pigments, dry brushing.

Also I have seen some great pieces of work while surfing the Internet but some weathering on tanks ive seen can be way over the top and make it look unrealistic.

Thank you so much!!!

[John]

I've got some of the Tamiya weathering kits and haven't really used them that much, I know you can get good results using them but I've never managed to do anything to write home about, I don't see why you can't use the cheap makeup kits, they do look very similar, as for pigments I use matt varnish to apply them, and you can use pastels as pigments but you need to get it really fine

[Guest]

The sort of questions you have asked could take a book each to answer so the best way is probably to point you in the right direction so that you can do some further research yourself to obtain more detail.

1) The cheapest and most widely used alternatives to pigments are artist pastels. Rub them on a piece of sandpaper to generate a coloured powder which can be used in just the same way as pigments. You can also use the powder paints that kids use in school, usually quite cheap but you probably have to buy rather a large quantity from an artist suppliers. Don't forget you can mix powders just as you can colours.

2) The ladies make up packs are usually an oil based material and so you could end up with problems trying to use them. I would test a sample from a kit that some femail member of your family is prepared to lend you but I doubt they will be very successful.

3) The technique is exactly the same for whatever subject you are applying it to. Dry brushing is dry brushing however the variables are the type of paint you are using, which is usually determined by what you are applying it to. Matt surfaces take the effects considerably better but the effect is best used for such things as clothing, where a slightly lighter version of the base colour gives a highlight or worn paint effects where you might drybrush a metallic grey to simulate worn paint. As with everything else experiment with scraps to see what effects you can generate.

4) The solvent you use for your wash will usually depend on the base paint you are applying it over. The rule of thumb is to use a different solvent so that it does not disturb the base colour. If I was putting a wash over matt enamel you could use either a water based wash or an oil paint based wash. You can also use a water based wash over a gloss paint, add a spot of washing up liquid to break the water surface tension and allow it to flow, which is particularly useful for things like aircraft panel lines where you want no wash at all on the rest of the panelling.

Bottom line, think of washes as enhancing shadows and dry brushing as enhancing highlights, although this is not a hard and fast rule but it is a useful guidance.

[Guest]

I do use the Tamiya weathering kits but they are not fantastic I would say. About 12 bucks for one set (and there are three sets). I would prefer drybrushing as an alternative because Tamiya only gives three colours that you can use.

[Guest]

I like isopropyl alcohol for fixing pigments, it's less gloopy than using varnish

Vallejo pigments are good too, you get more pigment for less cash :clap3:

[Guest]

I use artists pastels which i bought from a shop called the works, they cost me £5.00 and you get every colour under the sun and they last for ever they work great too. i use these in three ways first dry, brush grind them to a powder then simply brush on. Second wet a brush with a little tamiya thinner and apply this way good for simulating rust streaks etc. Third i have bought the mig resign add some of the desired colour to the resign mix e.g brown for mud and apply this with a mixing stick to areas such as wheels and running gear. When it comes to weathering less is usually more, as for making washes the paint you use will dictate the kind of solvant you need e.g if your using oils i mix them with turpentine to thin the paint i use Tamiya acrylics so i use their own brand thinner to thin them etc.

scott

Dry brushing works on anythingbe it figures, tanks, ships cars etc.

[Guest]

Question. If I have painted in Tamiya acrylic, and done a couple of coats of Kleer, can I use an oil wash, oil paint mixed with turps?

Steve

[Guest]

Yes, Klear, (Future stateside), is an acrylic based varnish so an oil wash on top is the way to go, make sure it's been left to cure at least 24 hours before your wash.

[Guest]

Question. If I have painted in Tamiya acrylic, and done a couple of coats of Kleer, can I use an oil wash, oil paint mixed with turps?Steve

yes you can as the klear seals the paint youcan use oil washes using turps.

scott

[Guest]

Thank you gents! Thats saved me another trip to the shops!

Steve

[spanner570]

Children's pastels all the way for me and for some reason are even cheaper than artists ones. Same stuff, but I suppose the word artist means they can charge more.lol

Stef, when you do apply the weathering try this to finish the model off:

Get a soft pencil, preferably 5B ( the higher the number the softer the lead) Then where you want some wear such as handles, metal edges and anywhere boots would scrape, gently rub the pencil over the area, put plenty on. With a dry finger rub the lead in and watch how it brings up a great bare metal, semi shiny finish.

If you want streaks, apply in the same way but instead of rubbing the lead, slightly dampen your finger and run the lead in streaks where ever you want it.

I 'aint knocking these 'special' pigments, I'm sure they do a good job. I just haven't the money to justify spending on that kind of thing, so I have to look for cheap alternatives and pastels and pencils work just fine.

Ron

[stona]

And Ron's pencil lead/dry finger technique is one I've used for years on gun barrels with excellent results.

Cheers

Steve