Color modulation for car models

[Guest]

At this point I have a confession to make, and I don't know if this happens to you, but when I start final assembly I often have to force myself to slow down because I get so excited and this is the stage where I tend to make lots of mistakes . . . so a word of caution . . . take it slow, enjoy the build as it comes together in its final stages . . .

[Guest]

That's pretty much all there is to this simple and basic technique . . . next time you are weathering one of your models, I urge you to give it a try . . .

[Ian M]

Thanks for that Virgil, a great little car and it sure looks like its had a long hard life and is now ready for some fun.

A great step by step.

Ian M

[Guest]

Again I Love it , must also add Virgil your photograghy is 1st class , yet another modelling area that I`ve got to improve on

Richy

[Guest]

Thanks, Richy . . . it took me a couple of years to get the photos to look pretty good, but you know I had a lot of help from other builders and also from the fact that digital photography is so much easier, and cheaper in the long run. No more running to get film developed!

[Guest]

I have to say Virgil that was one of the most interesting threads I've seen in a long time. Many thanks for building the process up in stages like that to help us understand how this works.

I just have a couple of questions, first, I take it you thin down the plastic from the inside with something like a Dremel to create the holes in the bodywork? Secondly when you talk about using the highlights and shadows in both the rust coloured layer and the body colour do you adjust the paint mix while it is in the cup of the airbrush rather than 'change' colour every time?

Thanks again for a superb thread.

[Guest]

As one of the people, (i think someone else asked too) who asked for one of your walkthroughs can I say, a huge thankyou, that was fascinating and informative and contains techniques I will most certainly use, as per BB, quote below I was going to ask the same thing as thinned / holed frontal arches are evident.

I take it you thin down the plastic from the inside with something like a Dremel to create the holes in the bodywork?Thanks again for a superb thread.

I have to say you make it look very easy, (i've used the salt weathering on an aircraft, lots of fun isn't it)

Your pics are excellent, I just love your wee axle stands, great.

Funilly enough, I was only thinking this morning of the next model to make after the couple I have on the go and was hoping you'd post something like this as I have a perfect candidate in a Citroen 2CV6 in my stash which i'd like to weather in a manner like this.

I assume you're using satin or matte paint to replicate the weather worn paint also?

I'm very surprised to see that you use rust paint on the body but no pigments, i'm quite new to weathering techniques like this but just expected some pigment use, just goes to show what a cracking job can be done with a little know how.

Thanks again and more please

[Guest]

Richard--thanks for the great questions. For the rust base, I pre-mix my colors 50-50, but then I do add to lighten or darken in the airbrush cup, sure, it's easier that way. I do use the Dremel for thinning down the plastic although another great way to recreate rusted panels--say on a real junker--is to use aluminum or thin metal and then form the panel, and you can soak it in Etching solution to rust it through. I like working with plastic, so it's better for me to thin down the plastic from the back . . .

M1ks, thanks to you too for the input. I like to always put a coat on of rust paint, in particular if I am going to use salt or the hairspray technique on the body. Pigments are fine but I always think that if you airbrush real transparent and thin coats of paint you can build up some real nice rust streaks too.

[Guest]

What a stunning piece of work and a great walkthrough of how its done, as a beginner these types of tutorials are invaluable to me and i hope you will be posting up many more.

Cheers

Darren

[Guest]

That is one stunning piece of work Virgil, many thanks for posting such a well illustrated and in depth tutorial. I know that this effect can be applied to any form of vehicle or just about anything. It is techniques like colour modulation that can make such a huge leap in reality for modellers. It does, after all, reflect real life and that is what we all strive for.

It can be very scary to try such a technique for the first time but all I can say to fellow modellers is give it a go. Maybe for a few times you will not get it quite right, maybe too strong an effect, maybe too subtle but keep trying, as you see so well illustrated above, the work is worth it.

Many thanks Virgil, that is one hell of a tutorial.

[Guest]

The pleasure is all mine, chaps . . . thanks for the kind comments . . . I've been spending the last five years studying the work of Mig Jimenez (whose tanks are getting more and more junked because he too is fascinated by rust and the effects of nature and fire on a vehicle) and I've been trying to do similar techniques to model cars. I've seen my share of rusted vehicles out in the woods.

[simontie]

That was amazing you are truly talented wonderful technique, and a great model, as they say in the states awesome.

Thanks for the lesson

Simon

[Guest]

Thanks, Simon . . . I started out building military vehicles when I was a kid and then transition in to model cars and motorcycles as an adult, but I am still crazy about AFV stuff.

[Guest]

Virgil, Superb tutorial, and very well timed. Plan to build a 1930's Steam Trawler for my next project, these vessels very quickly became rust buckets, and I have been looking at ways to demonstrate this. Your article certainly gave me plenty of food for thought. Cheers Derek

[Guest]

A professional and very informative tutorial, many thanks, very interesting reading.Superb.