Color modulation for car models

[Guest]

Cranky.

burnt out cars!.. thats the next on my to do list. !! We're thinking along the same lines!!. Should be interesting to see what we come up with!! lol

[Guest]

Yes, it should be fun . .

[Guest]

Even though this project as part of a Normandy diorama has been stopped, I thought I would have my first go at rusting and salt chipping to try to depict a car where the engine compartment had been on fire and abandoned. The front right tyre was cut away and melted to show it as deflated and burned at the top.

I then used pigments to build up rust on the bonnet (hood) and sides of the engine compartment before sealing it with Future Klear. I then wet it with water and sprinkled ground sea salt onto the bonnet and let it dry. I then over sprayed with the same grey as the rest of the car followed by a very thin spray of Tamiya smoke just to tone it down a bit.

I have to say I found the salt quite hard to remove, I ended up using a tooth brush to scrub it off in the end (don't know what SWMBO will say in the morning when she goes to clean her teeth.....)

Anyway, it has not worked and I am a tad disappointed but glad it was on a scrap model and nothing important. I will probably dip it in stripper at some point to get back to the plastic and use it as a test bed again.

Anyone any ideas why it went wrong, obviously I have done something wrong at some stage but not sure what so, if the Doctor is in, I would appreciate a quick diagnosis please.

Please note that it is a bit too shiny as no mat varnish has been dusted on as yet so it looks a little odd because of that.

[Guest]

Wow, it's looking good. You've created a lot of texture to the rust (perhaps a bit thick in places) but it looks good. The tire is absolutely beautiful and a great touch.

Here's a good discussion to have about these techniques:

Here's a bit of clarification on all these techniques.

Okay, so the idea is that FIRST you have to decide how rusty and gunky and gone do you want your vehicle. If you want to build a daily driver, then you know you have to NOT over do it. Now, for this build, Cranky went all out because Cranky LOVES, LOVES, LOVES rust and far-gone vehicles, but you already knew that.

Okay, so once you figure out how much rust your vehicle is going to have (it helps to have reference sources, pictures or look around in a junk yard, etc) then you prepare accordingly.

One little dent goes a long ways, two rust throughs go a long ways, etc . . .

So here are the basic approaches, or tricks in your bag.

#1) You can decide to paint your model, and then use the sponge technique to add rust spots sparingly with black and brown paint.

#2) You can chip and map the paint by using the TABLE & ROCK SALT Method. You can also sprinkle a bit of baking powder in a little bit of super glue strategically placed on the rust spot on your model and this will add texture (old technique, sure) but it still works. Or you can use pigment powders to do the same and affix them with a little thinned out matte medium or flow matte medium.

#3) You can buy insurance on whatever rust you want to add by simply airbrushing a few coats of hairspray on the body (over the rust coat) and then using a stiff brush and warm water you can chip away at the paint.

You can practice each of these individually and then you can begin to combine them always experimenting to achieve a higher level of realism in your work.

After all, this is exactly what military modelers have been doing for years now, getting great results. I just want to make sure everyone understands that these techniques are also available to us model car builders . . .

[Guest]

Cool thread, never heard of doing it with salt, one for the note book, thanks!!

[Guest]

Thanks Virgil. I used Mig pigments to create the rust and I used thinners to 'set' it in place. I don't know if it is just me but I find the Mig pigments a bit lumpy, the specks on the wheel are just specks of Mig old rust under paint. This is a 1:35 scale model and I think for my next tryout, I will use Promodeller (now Flory Models) pigment as it is much finer.

Thanks for the feedback Virgil, much appreciated.

[Guest]

Always a challenge getting a new technique right the first time. The trouble is people like Dr Cranky make it look so easy! I think scale plays a big part in this as well as Dr Cranky's car was quite a big scale and the salt provides a better size opening in the surface.

Just a thought after reading through this, perhaps the salt must be removed after a single light application of the top colour, then other coats can follow. If we add too much over the salt before removing it it will tend to seal it in and make it more difficult to remove.

[Guest]

Trouble with removing the salt after first coat Richard is that this then uncovers the rust below. If you then spray again, you will be painting over the rust.

[Guest]

I was only thinking of clear coats.

[Guest]

Actually, I have no trouble whatsoever removing the salt as I tend to let the paint dry well and then I remove the salt with water and a soft brush. Nothing happens to the paint, but the salt actually helps bleach the spots around each grain of salt, so it creates this interesting stippled pattern.

The only time I get concerned about the paint is when I put down a few coats of hairspray, then you have to be a bit more careful with the water. I use cold water on the salt and it comes off, but less and I tend to work faster.

[Guest]

I remove the salt with water and a soft brush.

Ahhh, never thought of that and probably missed it in your tutorial Virgil. I just scrubbed it off dry. Oh to have that knowledge and forethought (well, I have now lol). Thanks again

[Guest]

It happened to me too because when you are working with acrylics the idea of water is scary, you know . . . you think something is going to happen to the basecoat, but I find that Vallejo, Floquil, and other acrylic paint lines hold up pretty well to water after it has thoroughly dried.

[Guest]

I guess you don't want too heavy a coat of paint over the salt then otherwise it will be sealed in and the water will not be able to get to it so I would expect a light coat will give better results.

[Guest]

Hi Cranky,

Well as I said I thought id try a burnt out car.

I used your Salt technique and some colour modulations on it.

I really like the effect.

enjoy.

Ian

[Guest]

Great piece of work, exceptional thread getting to see the process start to finsh and very well documented.

Keep up the outstanding work.

Cheers