I have discovered toilet paper

[Guest]

For modelling, you understand. The pieces are just the size for me, tear off easily, the better quality ones do not shred much, bought in bulk as we do for the house each piece costs 0.09p = 1p per session. A toilet roll holder now nestles under my bench.

[Ian M]

Watch out for the dust though. Loo rolls are very low grade, even the luxury ones. Wafting it around wet paint might give a nice fluffy finish.

[Guest]

Point noted.

[Guest]

Good for masking undercarriage wheel wells, damp it, squash it in let it dry a bit, works a treat.

[Guest]

To be honest I have used kitchen roll for many years now, mainly as Ian says, they don't give off as much dust and a single sheet lasts for a while rather than the one off use of a piece of toilet paper. That's not to say there isn't still plenty of uses for good old loo roll such as painted up to make canvas covers etc. Also screwed up and dabbed in paint to make some good random weathering effects.

Have you tried Izal? Just about as rubbish as it was for the purpose for which it was made!! ain:

[stona]

Have you tried Izal? Just about as rubbish as it was for the purpose for which it was made!! ain:

Wasn't that the shiny stuff we suffered at school?

Steve

[Guest]

Came in a green box, individual sheets and they were shiney !! guaranteed to slip all over the place..

Danny

[Guest]

That's the stuff! All shiny and stiff like grease proof paper.......and useless!

[Guest]

Jumbo kitchen rolls from pound shop. Better than the small ones bit tougher & they are white without the decoration which sheds its colour when wet.

Also for masking I have found a great product stocked by B & Q. It is a thin foam put down before laying mock hardwood flooring. It bends , you can cut it & tear it & stretch it. It is about£10 a hugh roll. Also great for laying fragile pieces while drying.

Laurie

[Guest]

Just a thought Laurie, that stuff might just melt if you are spraying a cellulse based paint. I'm sure it is fine with acrylics abd enamels though.

[Guest]

Another one here prefering kitchen roll over toilet roll for general purpose.

Toilet roll has one disadvantage for me in the fact that it is designed to break down in water, therefore not good for making scratch bult items.

As said above, kitchen roll is less dusty, and i've found even drying a brush on toilet roll has left particles of paper in the bristles.

Toilet roll is great for papier-mashe (mixed with PVA) and also you can add it to your poly-filler mix to give a better texture for rocks and stone walls.

[Guest]

Also for masking I have found a great product stocked by B & Q. It is a thin foam put down before laying mock hardwood flooring. It bends , you can cut it & tear it & stretch it. It is about£10 a hugh roll. Also great for laying fragile pieces while drying.Laurie

Do you use this in place of White Tack worms for camo masking? It is possibly thick enough to give a similar fuzzy shadow effect. I have tried worms and Tamiya tape but the tape sticks very strongly to the White Tack when removing it. A real pain.

I will soon be experimenting with manually tracing out the edge between the two camo colours with a low AB pressure (perhaps 10 PSI or lower) and not pulling the trigger back much, then filling in with the usual AB setting.

I am guessing but logic says that the edge on a 1/72 should be sharper than on a 1/48 or 1/36, perhaps with the 1/72 being sprayed with tape applied directly to the model — very sharp.

[Guest]

As said above, kitchen roll is less dusty, and i've found even drying a brush on toilet roll has left particles of paper in the bristles.

Toilet roll is great for papier-mashe (mixed with PVA) and also you can add it to your poly-filler mix to give a better texture for rocks and stone walls.

I have also found that, when soaking up paint-contaminated AB cleaner from the little bottle brush used for cleaning the passage between the cup and the front end, toilet paper sheds fibres on the brush, so I now use a piece of cloth (an old shirt) for that stage. Ideal would be a totally synthetic woven fabric.

[Guest]

I am guessing but logic says that the edge on a 1/72 should be sharper than on a 1/48 or 1/36, perhaps with the 1/72 being sprayed with tape applied directly to the model — very sharp.

From what i know (which is very little concerning aircraft) this seems to be the general idea Steve.

[Guest]

Ideal would be a totally synthetic woven fabric.

Would a synthetic dish cloth (the blue/white type) be any good for this? ... they're available in large packs for little cost in discount shops