Well it has been some time since I added something to the “Back to Basics” thread as I thought that most of the really basic stuff had been covered. What I now find though is that as I get involved with other discussions on the forum thoughts turn to subjects that are maybe not quite as basic as the originals but can be progressed to in a sequential way, which may help modelers take their skills into new areas.
I will therefore help the newcomers to plastic modeling take some of those steps that open up new doors and help you to realize just how easy it can be to achieve some surprising levels of realism with your models.
Keeping the “Back to Basics” theme very firmly in mind I thought I might share a few ideas on metallic finishes and, in particular thinking along the lines of model engines etc.
As with so much in modeling you cannot beat having a look at the subject you are modeling and whilst it may not be so easy to have a Sopwith Camel or the odd Bismarck to hand most of us should be able to get to have a look at an engine in some form or another. It will quickly become obvious that there as many different engine types and finishes as there are anything else so what may be acceptable for your model Ducati would not look correct if you applied the same paints to the said Sopwith Camel.
A good starting point is to try to get an idea of what the metals used in your engine really are. Most modern engines use various aluminium and magnesium alloys and are therefore a very light metallic finish however if you are building a model of a vintage car most engine blocks would be of an aluminium material with cast iron also used for numerous components. The essence, as always is a bit of research and, of course if in doubt, ask questions. What could be a better resource than forums such as this to help with this type of information?
Lets take a pretty typical engine that you may find yourself modeling such as a Tamiya Ducati motorcycle, “V” Twin. Most of the main casing of these engines is made from a magnesium alloy and so are a bit darker in shade than aluminium and some of them are actually powder coated. Paints you would want to hand would be Gunmetal, Metallic Grey, Silver and maybe gold.
It is doing things like putting together a model engine that you realize it is time to stray away from the instructions and think things through for yourself. Following the instructions you will paint the various items and glue them to the engine in sequence but that may be not quite as logical as putting the two halves of the casing together first and painting them as one unit. I always use a piece of sprue and glue it to the engine at some point that is going to be eventually covered, such as behind a chrome cover or in the exhaust hole. Don’t use a lot of glue, as you want the sprue to break off easily when you are ready! You then have a handle to hold the engine and you can paint away to your hearts content and put the sprue into a modeling vice when you are not painting.
Most engines such as the Ducati will have a crankcase of one base colour and additional fittings of different metals. The key to bringing it all to life is using different paint mixes to give subtle shades which will highlight the different pieces.
Most modern engines being water cooled will have cylinders of the same metal so would be the same colour but in earlier engines the air cooled cylinders could well be cast iron and the crank case could be aluminium. After a coat of gunmetal on the crankcases and cylinders it is time to think of a very simple technique, which will really bring the metal to life and that is dry brushing.
Dry brushing is a technique for highlighting surface detail and enhances the way light shines on the raised surface detail of an object. The initial mistake a lot of people make is to use different paints for this and the effect can be very unrealistic. Do not paint an engine black and then dry brush silver over it as this would not work and the result would look worse than doing nothing. The key is to be subtle so shades of the same colour should be used. Take your base of gunmetal paint, add a few drops to whatever palette you use (or whichever sideplate you have managed to sneak past your mother/wife/partner!) and add a single drop of silver. This now gives you a lighter shade of the base colour, which will be the dry brush medium. You need quite a large brush for dry brushing and a good supply of kitchen roll (steal this at the same time as you steal the side plate). Dab the large brush into your highlight paint and then wipe the brush on the kitchen roll to remove most of the paint. Flick the brush in very strong stokes back and forth across the kitchen roll until you feel that the paint on the brush is “dry” enough. Too much and you will end up painting the engine the highlight colour and not enough and nothing will happen. This will only be learned with experience and experimentation so play to your hearts content. When you are happy with the quantity of paint transfer to the model engine and flick the brush in firm even strokes across the base coat. If you have it right you will not see much effect until you have made a few strokes and then you will see the highlights start to come out. When you see this move on. The most important thing is not to do too much. You would be surprised at how effective a very small amount is and you shouldn’t be able to see the highlight as a separate colour. When you have done you will surprised at just how lifelike the finish will now look.
The next step with the Ducati engine would be to add remaining detail, if a different metal is involved such as the carburetors, then painting separately and gluing on afterwards would usually be the best method. If the engine has some chrome covers or bell mouths then you will find that the final engine with its cables and pipes in conjunction with the different metallic finishes added looks amazingly lifelike. Finally the engine may well have been fitted with bolts and fastenings of yet a different metal and will almost certainly be a lot brighter. I would still not use silver as this tends to be unrealistic and too bright so mix a drop of Gunmetal or Metallic Grey into a base of sliver to tone it down. Then Paint the nuts, bolts and fastenings with the smallest brush you can handle. Take your time and be patient and remember that if one is beyond your skill then leave it. It will look better not done than attempted and smudged with a bright contrasting colour.
As with most things you can’t beat experimenting and after a few dozen engines you will find it all second nature.
Remember this is about basic techniques, simple things that will take you to new levels of realism very easily. We could also discuss various shadowing techniques, metalcote paints and other polishing processes but what has been described above will give you a bit of confidence and make you want to look into more sophisticated techniques your self.
I will therefore help the newcomers to plastic modeling take some of those steps that open up new doors and help you to realize just how easy it can be to achieve some surprising levels of realism with your models.
Keeping the “Back to Basics” theme very firmly in mind I thought I might share a few ideas on metallic finishes and, in particular thinking along the lines of model engines etc.
As with so much in modeling you cannot beat having a look at the subject you are modeling and whilst it may not be so easy to have a Sopwith Camel or the odd Bismarck to hand most of us should be able to get to have a look at an engine in some form or another. It will quickly become obvious that there as many different engine types and finishes as there are anything else so what may be acceptable for your model Ducati would not look correct if you applied the same paints to the said Sopwith Camel.
A good starting point is to try to get an idea of what the metals used in your engine really are. Most modern engines use various aluminium and magnesium alloys and are therefore a very light metallic finish however if you are building a model of a vintage car most engine blocks would be of an aluminium material with cast iron also used for numerous components. The essence, as always is a bit of research and, of course if in doubt, ask questions. What could be a better resource than forums such as this to help with this type of information?
Lets take a pretty typical engine that you may find yourself modeling such as a Tamiya Ducati motorcycle, “V” Twin. Most of the main casing of these engines is made from a magnesium alloy and so are a bit darker in shade than aluminium and some of them are actually powder coated. Paints you would want to hand would be Gunmetal, Metallic Grey, Silver and maybe gold.
It is doing things like putting together a model engine that you realize it is time to stray away from the instructions and think things through for yourself. Following the instructions you will paint the various items and glue them to the engine in sequence but that may be not quite as logical as putting the two halves of the casing together first and painting them as one unit. I always use a piece of sprue and glue it to the engine at some point that is going to be eventually covered, such as behind a chrome cover or in the exhaust hole. Don’t use a lot of glue, as you want the sprue to break off easily when you are ready! You then have a handle to hold the engine and you can paint away to your hearts content and put the sprue into a modeling vice when you are not painting.
Most engines such as the Ducati will have a crankcase of one base colour and additional fittings of different metals. The key to bringing it all to life is using different paint mixes to give subtle shades which will highlight the different pieces.
Most modern engines being water cooled will have cylinders of the same metal so would be the same colour but in earlier engines the air cooled cylinders could well be cast iron and the crank case could be aluminium. After a coat of gunmetal on the crankcases and cylinders it is time to think of a very simple technique, which will really bring the metal to life and that is dry brushing.
Dry brushing is a technique for highlighting surface detail and enhances the way light shines on the raised surface detail of an object. The initial mistake a lot of people make is to use different paints for this and the effect can be very unrealistic. Do not paint an engine black and then dry brush silver over it as this would not work and the result would look worse than doing nothing. The key is to be subtle so shades of the same colour should be used. Take your base of gunmetal paint, add a few drops to whatever palette you use (or whichever sideplate you have managed to sneak past your mother/wife/partner!) and add a single drop of silver. This now gives you a lighter shade of the base colour, which will be the dry brush medium. You need quite a large brush for dry brushing and a good supply of kitchen roll (steal this at the same time as you steal the side plate). Dab the large brush into your highlight paint and then wipe the brush on the kitchen roll to remove most of the paint. Flick the brush in very strong stokes back and forth across the kitchen roll until you feel that the paint on the brush is “dry” enough. Too much and you will end up painting the engine the highlight colour and not enough and nothing will happen. This will only be learned with experience and experimentation so play to your hearts content. When you are happy with the quantity of paint transfer to the model engine and flick the brush in firm even strokes across the base coat. If you have it right you will not see much effect until you have made a few strokes and then you will see the highlights start to come out. When you see this move on. The most important thing is not to do too much. You would be surprised at how effective a very small amount is and you shouldn’t be able to see the highlight as a separate colour. When you have done you will surprised at just how lifelike the finish will now look.
The next step with the Ducati engine would be to add remaining detail, if a different metal is involved such as the carburetors, then painting separately and gluing on afterwards would usually be the best method. If the engine has some chrome covers or bell mouths then you will find that the final engine with its cables and pipes in conjunction with the different metallic finishes added looks amazingly lifelike. Finally the engine may well have been fitted with bolts and fastenings of yet a different metal and will almost certainly be a lot brighter. I would still not use silver as this tends to be unrealistic and too bright so mix a drop of Gunmetal or Metallic Grey into a base of sliver to tone it down. Then Paint the nuts, bolts and fastenings with the smallest brush you can handle. Take your time and be patient and remember that if one is beyond your skill then leave it. It will look better not done than attempted and smudged with a bright contrasting colour.
As with most things you can’t beat experimenting and after a few dozen engines you will find it all second nature.
Remember this is about basic techniques, simple things that will take you to new levels of realism very easily. We could also discuss various shadowing techniques, metalcote paints and other polishing processes but what has been described above will give you a bit of confidence and make you want to look into more sophisticated techniques your self.
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