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I would think that you need to ballast the lower half of the keel first before adding the upper deck ? is that correct Guy ? the adhesive that you use would act as a sealent.
sorry for the delay in replying lads, i missed this thread for a while !
duplo is not so good !!!!- the tubes inside the bricks dont ' clutch ' as well-( they are easier to get apart) they are softer plastic so as not to hurt babies mouths as they chew everything !- so the occasional knocks against the harbour wall are more damging to duplo and when glueing Duplo you only have the exterior footprint of the brick as a bonded surface,the tubes on the underside of the duplo brick dont extend to the to the ground the tubes stop short as it were..... with LEGO the tubes on the underside of the brick are the same length as the sidewalls, so if you apply adhesive to the underside of a LEGO brick ( as we do- like doing an ink stamp) you apply adhesive to the base of the brick and the bottoms of all the tubes - so you get a better bonded area, hench a stronger build, - we do also apply glue via a pen applicator too......so you can get round weakpoints !- by gluing each brick to the surrounding bricks with a solvent you get a chemical weld, if you do this correctly and efficiently you trap air inbtween each brick which effectively means you have a double walled hull with airspaceinbetween, - this virtually makes the boat unsinkable, you need to pierce the outer skin of every brick to compromise the double wall,- which is highly unlikely......
as for making them float then you do need a sealant- the adhesive is not enough on its own !
i use firbre glass resin for my boats, i basically build the glued hull up to deck level and then paint on a thick layer of resin to the inside of the hull, - leave it to cure and hopefully it is 100% watertight once fully cured !- simple as that, - the one thing is to find a resin that does not melt the plastic !!!
as for ballast then ideally the model is a fairly accurate scale model, so if you build efficiently then the ballast proportions for the vessel should be about correct- if you build too heavy a superstructure then the models risks capsizing- its just a matter of using common sense.....
the advantage of a RC model is you add the batteries suplying the motors/RC gear which act as a ballast weight, these go as low in the hull as possible and keep everything stable, ( its also big and heavy too) so i dont need to add a false keel or anything.....
its just the same as building a bread and butter hull say in timber but you use LEGO and each layer is 2.7mm thick or 8mm if you use bricks not plates to build !
the advantages are no painting, if you ever collide with anything your hull colour remains unaffected, the down side is the other model is usually left with multiple parallel scratches/ damage - plus with a serrated bow and hull if anyone is daft enough to collide with you you normally come off the best !-
we do have some daft herberts down at our lake from time to time :-)
they dont mess with my boat ! or if they do they only do it once.
I like it Guy,must be like a tank in the water,very rugged construction,I thought that we only got the idiots in the aircraft clubs,hovering over the strip with their 3-d models.
Fast electric boats are supposed to stay in a seperate arera on our pond from the scale models and the yachts. Only a couple of weeks ago a fast electric model went shooting across the wrong area and hit a yacht so hard it mounted it, tangled itself in the sails and started to slowly drag it under. It was only when a couple of tugs pushed it to the bank quickly was it prevented from actually sinking. The yacht was a scratch built plank on frame model, the fast electric boat was an off the shelf toy.
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