Help with painting a ship!

[BattleshipBob]

Hi Bob, I’m no expert and have only made one boat so far but my experience was one of trial & error and despite asking many questions myself about how to go about painting I think it’s a very subjective topic. Everyone has there own preference so probably there isn’t a right or wrong way of doing it. I think the main consideration is lots of planning, e.g, study the instructions
In detail many times before you actually start the model. Get an idea of what goes where. You will find some parts of the assembly will be mostly the same colour so you can build that part in one go, air brush in one piece and then adhere at a later stage. Even instructions are not always the best order to do things as they rarely take account of the painting of parts. As a general rule of thumb painting dark colours over light is probably easier-as the other way around usually means a lot
More coats of paint to achieve the colour. Sometimes this cannot be avoided though so again it’s about planning the order of things.
On my particular boat which was the RMS Queen Mary 1, I sprayed the main hull and also all the decking as I wanted the best possible wood effect but that meant painting the white main body parts afterwards by brush. Again, masking I’m sure is possible if you are willing to spend months doing it which was far more than my own patience would allow. I found in practice glueing onto paint although not ideal practice did work none the less. If you can just sand carefully the surface to be glued, rough it a little and you will be fine.
As I say, this was my experience and there are many in this forum far more experienced than myself who
May contradict what I have said.
Good luck.
Ps- what boat/ship are you building?
Carl

Thank you Carl, much food or plastic for thought, much appreciated.

Got a few in the stash, might go for 1 400 Heller Graf Spee, not many parts and i think a ideal first time build, have a few other Hellers

I use both enamel paints and or acrylic. I spray the subassembies befor attaching them to the hull any glue that has left a mark can be touched in later if needed. I find if left alone and if not swimming in glue, it dries almost perfect. I use liquid cement and a glupper applicator.
I have a conversion sheet some place that gives good colour matches with Vallejo acrylics. Failing that Sovereign hobbies colour coats.

Hi Ian

Much appreciated advice, ta very much!

Bob

[boatman]

WELL :thinking: Bob there you have your advice when are we goin to see some action then ?lol:rolling::smiling:
chris the boatman

[adt70hk]

sadly a Stug will not float

Now that's an idea for a 'what if'. A 'duplex drive' Stug or some other flotation device..... :smiling5:

[rtfoe]

Hi Bob, I just came across your post so I'll give my two cents of advise.

I use both the airbrush and hand painting with a brush for my builds.

It all depends on how the hull, body structures and other pieces are attached to the deck. If they are not molded to the deck then painting the sub assemblies separately will be the way to go. If they are molded to the deck then it's either masking or freehand brush painting. I normally would use the airbrush at a very low psi to lessen any over spray and won't bother masking any of the molded protrusions on the deck. Those I would pick out with a paint brush so, do have a lot of paint left over for touch ups.

There will always be re-paints over areas that paint has spilled over or glue marks to be hidden. Here are two tips I use...dark washes often help to keep the structure and deck joints neat and a dab of Testors matt varnish hides glue marks.

Thin liquid cement is best to glue structures down to the deck...hold it down firmly and just touch one end with a loaded sharp tipped brush and let capillary action do the rest. Don't press down just after you have added the glue risking pressed glue from creeping out and ruining the paint work.

PE railings and other parts can be attached before or after painting depending on your preference or the construction steps. Either white glue or CA can be used to attached these fiddly things. Apply a little glue at both ends to fix it down, once secure just run your applicator along the length to strengthen the bond. Apply it sparingly as it holds quite well.

Another thing is breath when you do the rigging...you can easily pass out if you don't. CA glues this best and an accelerator will make sure you don't hold your breath too long.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Richard

[BattleshipBob]

WELL :thinking: Bob there you have your advice when are we goin to see some action then ?lol:rolling::smiling:
chris the boatman

Wait for it sir, the slipway is frozen and the steel for the ship is stuck at the docks lol

Now that's an idea for a 'what if'. A 'duplex drive' Stug or some other flotation device..... :smiling5:

Stop it!!

Hi Bob, I just came across your post so I'll give my two cents of advise.

I use both the airbrush and hand painting with a brush for my builds.

It all depends on how the hull, body structures and other pieces are attached to the deck. If they are not molded to the deck then painting the sub assemblies separately will be the way to go. If they are molded to the deck then it's either masking or freehand brush painting. I normally would use the airbrush at a very low psi to lessen any over spray and won't bother masking any of the molded protrusions on the deck. Those I would pick out with a paint brush so, do have a lot of paint left over for touch ups.

There will always be re-paints over areas that paint has spilled over or glue marks to be hidden. Here are two tips I use...dark washes often help to keep the structure and deck joints neat and a dab of Testors matt varnish hides glue marks.

Thin liquid cement is best to glue structures down to the deck...hold it down firmly and just touch one end with a loaded sharp tipped brush and let capillary action do the rest. Don't press down just after you have added the glue risking pressed glue from creeping out and ruining the paint work.

PE railings and other parts can be attached before or after painting depending on your preference or the construction steps. Either white glue or CA can be used to attached these fiddly things. Apply a little glue at both ends to fix it down, once secure just run your applicator along the length to strengthen the bond. Apply it sparingly as it holds quite well.

Another thing is breath when you do the rigging...you can easily pass out if you don't. CA glues this best and an accelerator will make sure you don't hold your breath too long.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Richard

Hi Richard

Many thanks for the excellent advice, very much appreciated!!

[BattleshipBob]

Still not 100% on what to sink first lol

Might do a poll?? Anybody interested out there on a cold winters night:thinking:

[boatman]

well boyo put up a list so we can vote on this
chris

[BattleshipBob]

Ok Chris

Will do Wednesday:thumb2:

[Tim Marlow]

Kurfürst .... love the first war dreadnoughts

[rtfoe]

Hi Richard

Many thanks for the excellent advice, very much appreciated!!

No problem Bob. There are no fast rules just simple logic and a bit more studying on the approach to the build steps.

Cheers,
Richard

[boatman]

No problem Bob. There are no fast rules just simple logic and a bit more studying on the approach to the build steps.

Cheers,
Richard

Very well put Richard thats what i said to Bob in a email an he's got to be confident an not think its gonna turn out rubbish
chris

[BattleshipBob]

Can someone help with setting up a poll???

[boatman]

Can someone help with setting up a poll???

Well cant help there boyo but i think if i remember right dave ward knows as he done a poll with this voteing if im right that is
chris

[Guest]

Bob, just list out the models may be give each one a letter and ask us to vote.

[BattleshipBob]

Bob, just list out the models may be give each one a letter and ask us to vote.

Thanks John, will post a poll on a new.thread in ships

Bob