Dealing with the hull seams, a question?

[Tim Marlow]

Treat it like a fuselage seam on an aircraft and you won’t go far wrong Bob. Ian and Ron’s advice is sound!

[Dave Ward]

I find that edge preparation before touching the cement, such as scraping with a knife, even removing location pegs to ensure correct alignment go a long way to reducing gaps & the need for filler. In bad cases, sanding the surfaces on a big sheet of wet & dry can work wonders. If I do use filler, I use Perfect Plastic Putty thinned with water and applied with a brush, cloth, or finger! I only use sufficient to deal with a problem the more you slap on, the longer it takes to sand off. Masking can counter overspill.
Dave

[Guest]

If the fit is ok I just use thicker glue and go for a moderat squeeze out and once that has hardened scrape it carefully with a sharp blade.
Gappy seams get the same followed by filler. Really bad gaps get filled with sprue sanded to fit. All smoothed to shape once hard.
I find setting it ablaze distorts the shape to much.

Just as I have with my Bristol Freighter Ian. After tacking with Mr Cement S squeezing with finger & thumb to tighten the joint. Then drenched seam with Tamiya Thin Cement which soften twice that of S.

If the joint is worse Tamiya Cement which softens more but takes longer to cure.

After the above no need to worry about the filler being used as glue.

Best fillers I have found as they cure quickly, roughly same softness/hardness as most plastics. They also sand to a feather edge with out breaking away.
Mr White putty wider fill. Mr White Putty R (smoother) smaller gaps (& where My White has not completely filled. To finish Mr Surfacer 500 (may need more than one application).

Laurie

I find setting it ablaze distorts the shape to much. Mmm :hungry: but sorts the problem quickly & heals the mind