Foreart (Fore Hobby) Schnellboot S38

[andy55]

Well not quite sure what I've taken on here. It's Forearts latest, S38, but there's an awful lot of it. Seemed like a good idea after doing Revells S100. To give you an idea, the white sheet in the middle of the pile of sprues is the wire for the hand rails, you have to clean out the stantions with a 0.3mm drill.
Plus 5 sheets of PE and brass gun barrels.
think it could be a very long build.

[Waspie]

Ooooo, we like a good FAC. They make loverly targets!!!

[Airborne01]

Rarver yew than me Guv!
Steve

[Ian M]

Fancy one of those, I'm watching.

[andy55]

Ooooo, we like a good FAC. They make loverly targets!!!

Sorry I know I'm being thick here but FAC. Know it will be obvious when you say.

Fancy one of those, I'm watching.

Don't hold your breath that's all.
Have found that the two hull halves are the same as the S100. Got to trim down the sides where the walkway is at side of bridge.

Fancy one of those, I'm watching.

Modelsforsale.com, Dave Ward suggested them. Will let you know if I'm thanking Dave or cursing him in a few days. lol

[Waspie]

MTB's etc all come under the banner of Fast Attack Craft!! It covers missile attack boats, Gunboats et al!

[Dave Ward]

Will let you know if I'm thanking Dave or cursing him

Awwww - does that mean I don't get my commission? :disappointed:
Dave

[andy55]

MTB's etc all come under the banner of Fast Attack Craft!! It covers missile attack boats, Gunboats et al!

Knew it would be obvious.

Awwww - does that mean I don't get my commission? :disappointed:
Dave

I'll let you know, but for now, thanks.

[Ian M]

Don't hold your breath that's all.
Have found that the two hull halves are the same as the S100. Got to trim down the sides where the walkway is at side of bridge.

That's just sound engineering. Why make two tools when one can be used for both. From what I have seen, the Fore kits are well detailed.

[andy55]

Update.
Got the hull joined, will have some slight filling and sanding. Think it's me rather than the moulding. There's two bars going across as per pic, so as well as taping the keel you've to put the deck in as spacer and tape the top.
Decided after a lot of cursing (Dave) to have a go at the bofors, even more cursing. Ian M said about the detail, below is a pic of the unfinished Bofors and the Revell kit.

[andy55]

Knew there was something else. Never used PE before. What do you use to glue it together. Hoping it's not soldered.

[Jim R]

Looks a very comprehensive kit Andy. Just needs time and patience. Guns look good.
PE, brass photo etch, has it's own set of 'rules'. Firstly PE in a kit either replaces a plastic part or is added to the plastic parts. If it replaces a part you often have to cut away part of the plastic and replace it with PE. If it is an addition to the plastic it is just fixed in place. Often PE can be not worth using. Sometimes it's too small to be manageable, sometimes it is no better or even less good that the plastic part and sometimes it is simply wrong - grab handles are round not flat like a PE part for example. Clean the PE with a fibre glass pen or fine sanding. Cut from the fret using a semi hard surface like plastic or perspex with a curved blade with a rocking motion. Clean the nib that's left with a fine file. Bend as required - try to get the bending right first time as the brass can break if folded again. You can solder PE but usually it is stuck with CA glue, super glue.
Have fun :smiling:

[andy55]

Looks a very comprehensive kit Andy. Just needs time and patience. Guns look good.
PE, brass photo etch, has it's own set of 'rules'. Firstly PE in a kit either replaces a plastic part or is added to the plastic parts. If it replaces a part you often have to cut away part of the plastic and replace it with PE. If it is an addition to the plastic it is just fixed in place. Often PE can be not worth using. Sometimes it's too small to be manageable, sometimes it is no better or even less good that the plastic part and sometimes it is simply wrong - grab handles are round not flat like a PE part for example. Clean the PE with a fibre glass pen or fine sanding. Cut from the fret using a semi hard surface like plastic or perspex with a curved blade with a rocking motion. Clean the nib that's left with a fine file. Bend as required - try to get the bending right first time as the brass can break if folded again. You can solder PE but usually it is stuck with CA glue, super glue.
Have fun :smiling:

Thanks for that Jim. More or less come to same conclusion, not worth using...
Obviously using the brass barrels. When I come to the hatches, will have to see what I can sort as they are either PE or clear plastic and there's 21 of the little buggers.

[Ian M]

PE ain't that bad. You just need to start with something you can see. That Bofors looks rather good.

[andy55]

PE ain't that bad. You just need to start with something you can see. That Bofors looks rather good.

There are some parts which are only PE so will have to use them. Had to buy a magnifying headset to see where I'm glueing parts.
Yep, the bofors does look pretty good (think I've done it justice) 25 parts for gun and controls...