HMS King George V - 1/350 Tamiya

[spanner570]

Derek, that's interesting. I did think how on earth I was going to fix my rails. I'll come to that when I have to!

I note your post about your rails having a kicking flat. If you take a look at Stuart's earlier big KG5 photo, it shows the railing back from the kicking flat by quite some few inches - almost a foot.

It also shows the rail stanchions fixed direct to the deck fittings, not the flats......Interesting eh?

You can always count on me to choose the hard option!

Cheers, Ron

[Guest]

That's a good idea i will do that myself as i have all the eduard pe parts for the pow kit so being the same class ship i will be watching this build closely

[Guest]

Hi Ron, I guess the difference re kick flat position is modelling license and practicality. Was looking at the MK 1 handrails for my future 1/350 Dragon Scharnhorst just now and they are as my Gold Medal, also I think Pontos do the same i.e. 4 Rail.

I may be wrong but the only option I can see for you would be to drill small holes so the stanchions slot in and give the CA glue a chance. Bear in mind the wooden deck positional requirements.

Maybe someone in this Forum has already had experience of this and can contribute. Derek

p.s. Welcome aboard Dave, feel free to contribute.

p.p.s Just found a photo of the Pontos handrail, it is 4 Rail.

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[spanner570]

I may be wrong but the only option I can see for you would be to drill small holes so the stations slot in and give the CA glue a chance. Bear in mind the wooden deck positional requirements.

[spanner570]

I don't think I could even see the drill bit, let alone drill holes with it. Such an undertaking is well beyond my skill level. I'm going to have to re-think this whole P.E. business.

[Guest]

Ron, have a look at this website, they do the 4 Rail Handrail. Have used them a few times. Used to be able to obtain them through White Ensign. They have a lot of interesting stuff.

http://northstarmodels.com/product-category/1350/page/11/

Derek

[Guest]

can i ask how did you get your main guns to move individually please ?

[Guest]

how do you get the main guns to move individually please on the pow they are moulded together ???

[Guest]

By chance today, we had some calm weather this afternoon and sunshine, so used a new technique for priming. I warmed up the aerosol primer cans, and dashed outside and sprayed the Ship and components individually. Gave each batch three light coats, leaving about 10 minutes in a warm room to dry. Seemed to work fine. Will leave the primer for at least 24 hours to cure.

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Funny how you don't spot small blemishes (on the hull) until you prime. Will repair after the curing period. Derek

[Guest]

how do you get the main guns to move individually please on the pow they are moulded together ???

Depends what you want.

If you want them raised at different elevations and static, then you can cut off the existing barrels and cement them at different radial locations around the original circular core, the same applies if you are using substitute metal ones, see below.

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If you want to be able to move them at different positions on the finished model, then you would need to drill a central hole along the circular section, insert a metal shaft or tubing and slice the four barrel hinges with a photo etch saw.

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Derek

[Guest]

thanks derek i will try that method as i have already glued all the metal barrels in place

[Guest]

Regarding fixing the rails, I use a medium cyno and put spots along the length of the rail, just to hold it in place, then I either use thinned PVA with a brush so that it 'wicks' along the deck/rail join or I use thin cyno so that it also 'wicks' into the joint. The PVA does take longer to dry and isn't quite as strong, but I find it is easier to use than thin cyno.

[Guest]

Regarding fixing the rails, I use a medium cyno and put spots along the length of the rail, just to hold it in place, then I either use thinned PVA with a brush so that it 'wicks' along the deck/rail join or I use thin cyno so that it also 'wicks' into the joint. The PVA does take longer to dry and isn't quite as strong, but I find it is easier to use than thin cyno.

Problem Ron has is that his Handrails rest on the posts, and does not have a fourth rail to glue, hence wicking action is not possible. Derek

[Guest]

i have drilled a hole on the double main guns and im tying a metal rod and other material like cocktail stick plastruct one will work i'm sure.

i have another question to ask. can you remember what colour you painted the deck hatches as the colour that tamiya suggest bottom hull colour does not look right so i was thinking tamiya acrylic XF20 medium grey ?

[Guest]

Problem Ron has is that his Handrails rest on the posts, and does not have a fourth rail to glue, hence wicking action is not possible. Derek

Ok, I missed that bit. Teach me to read a post properly!