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Good news Chris and I hope all goes well, would you mind telling me the soloution your mate came up with as I am interested in all that multi motor wiring.
Good news Chris and I hope all goes well, would you mind telling me the soloution your mate came up with as I am interested in all that multi motor wiring.
Andy.
HI Andy no i dont mind an the solution what richard came up with was something that i hadnt thought of as im to fussy to do what he did an yes like all good idea's it was simple all he did was he took one of the first motors that i was moaning about havin a short drive shaft only quarter on an inch for the universal brass allen key mounting to clamp to to drive the prop shaft as he said to me grind a flat bit on the shaft so the allen key mounting has got something to clamp onto an i said ive treid that an as there is no shaft comin out of the back of the motor there is no way to hold the shaft from turning to grind a flat edge on the motor shaft well without causeing damage to the motor but all richard done was useing a bit of balsa wood as its soft he pushed the wood inside the air cooling vent in the motor to jam the the motor shaft from turning ( which something i would never do ) but as its soft balsa it wont cause any damage to the armitcha motor shaft an then as the shaft is jammed an cannot move he then grinded off the shaft to a flat area
an then he went to work on the brass universal allen connection an ground that down by about a 1 mm an then finished it off with it in the vice with a file so that the mounting would go on the motor shaft another 1mm an the just slid the brass mounting on to the motor shaft an then useing the allen key tightened the allen grub screw down onto the flat part of the motor shaft an then gave it to me an i could not pull it off the motor shaft so a good fix an then he carryyied on till all 4 were done an that was the solution which i could have done had i thought of it but my m8 is more wise in the ways of getting things done than me so now untill i can fit the motors all back in an then redo all the wireing as ive got to alter all the wirein terminals as they wont fit on the motors ive now put back to usein so more new wirein harness to be made up but then ive got to hope the idea will stand up to turning
thounds of RPM BUT AT LEAST NOW IVE A CHANCE
AN SORRY TO RAMBLE ON ABOUT IT BUT BEST I COULD EXSPLAIN HIS IDEA
chris
HI ALL well i was up at 4am an was carefull not to wake up her ladyship the missus had a shower an a shave an brekkie an a cuppa char an got right up to the man cave at 5am to get an early start on them motors an ESC 's an the wireing which took a few hrs but i had it already to go by about 2pm
an ive got all the motors goin but then i had the same thing happen the motors stared to cut off an on again an i thought not again but i let them run at a slower speed an gradully they began to settle but i think its these bloomin ESC what are the cause as lookin at them when the motors cut out the led lights when out an came back on again but i think they may not be able to handle the power current that goin innto the system
an they are shuttin down in the self proteckion mode as it says in the instrukions that they have this built into them but later they ran for a fair while before any probs so it maybe that they need running in but i will test them again tomorrow an see how they go
chris an here some pics of it all back togeather again
BUT THE R/C runs fab it did all i asked of it an it shut down the back motors like i said i was goin to do with the knock on switch so at least one thing is goin properly an a pic of it goin an it lights up in a nice relaxin blue
chris
Just out of interest Chris, have you run the motors in yet? I know these are bigger and more powerful, and consequently much more robust, but I used to give my railway motors about twelve hours total, six in each direction. To start with I ran them at quarter power for an hour, checking temperature all the time. I then ran them at half power for three to four hours, then three quarter power for the remainder. I also used to put a meter across the inputs to see what was happening. It is amazing how much the power requirements drop as the motor runs in. I would never run a motor at full power until I’d done this as they could be fragile and very easy to burn out. A bonus was that the loco was much more smooth running afterwards, and would slow run far easier.
Just out of interest Chris, have you run the motors in yet? I know these are bigger and more powerful, and consequently much more robust, but I used to give my railway motors about twelve hours total, six in each direction. To start with I ran them at quarter power for an hour, checking temperature all the time. I then ran them at half power for three to four hours, then three quarter power for the remainder. I also used to put a meter across the inputs to see what was happening. It is amazing how much the power requirements drop as the motor runs in. I would never run a motor at full power until I’d done this as they could be fragile and very easy to burn out. A bonus was that the loco was much more smooth running afterwards, and would slow run far easier.
OH HI Tim yes thanks for the info but these motors are the small johnsons that i started with as the big motors took to much power an when all four were put into play they just stalled an some guys on mayhem told me when he looked up the motors number that these motors are high touge an high current drain so i took them back to the shop where i bought them an got a refund for them but i think its not the motors but the viper ESC that are the trouble but running them today at a slower rate they got better as they ran so the vote is out on which way to go on these as i'll try them again tomorrow an see how they go but thanks for your info an very nice of you for your help
ATB chris
Just a thought Chris, but looking at your pictures I dont see any suppressors on the motors unless they are built in. If not then perhaps that is causing electrical interference causing the ESC's to fluctuate.
Just a thought Chris, but looking at your pictures I dont see any suppressors on the motors unless they are built in. If not then perhaps that is causing electrical interference causing the ESC's to fluctuate.
Andy.
HI Andy ive got them already to fit but in my instruckion book for my carson R/C THEY SAY THERE IS NO NEED TO FIT THEM AS THIS SYSTEM IS 2.4 GIG AN BECC
SO I HAVNT FITTED THEM ANDY but if it keeps doin the cut outs i'll solder them on to the motors as its gonna be a proccess of elelimination isnt it but thank you for riminding me as the suppressors layin their packs in the motor box cheers
ATB chris
Just a thought Chris, but looking at your pictures I dont see any suppressors on the motors unless they are built in. If not then perhaps that is causing electrical interference causing the ESC's to fluctuate.
Andy.
HI Andy well i thought about what you have said as ive always fitted suppressors on my mottors but as this is that BECC system they say no need well i bought some today to fit an i treid the mottors again an its cutting out again so ive taken it all out again for the third time an now im gonna go to town on it for a start im goin to with draw all 4 prop shafts an regrease them an then im moveing the ESC away from the motors an them supperesserors on the motors to stop interfairance an start again for the 4th time
chris
Poor you Chris, it's come all this way with some brilliant modelling to be stopped like this. Most frustrating I bet, but have every confidence in you to sort it out.
Keep at it please and don't give in.
Poor you Chris, it's come all this way with some brilliant modelling to be stopped like this. Most frustrating I bet, but have every confidence in you to sort it out.
Keep at it please and don't give in.
MANY THANKS John yea im that confused i feel like jumpin on the ship but that would gain me nothing except a lot on money wasted lol an all that work
but i think ive got a small 4 x AA batt PACK to try on the R/X an i'll remove the two red wires an do away with the BECC IF NOT I'LL BUY ONE as u say take my time an with any luck i'll snuff it then before i get to try it then no worryies LOL BUT SERIOUSLY yes i'll try SOME NEW IDEAS SOME BOATY FREINDS have come up with many thanks an see how i go an any way its only cutting out for a second or so then restarts so may have to just put up with it an sailing time is 2 to 3 yrs away still
SO ATB john AN IF I CAN GET IT TO GO I'LL LET YOU all KNOW LOL
CHRIS
Hang tough Chris........I'm sure you will get it sorted out. :thumb2: Rick H.
well hi Rick yes as i said to John above i'll give it the good ole collage try but dont bet anthing on this lol but ive also got another idea ive just thought up an thats havin one batt to work the back set of motors an ESC an another to do the same on the OTHER SET OF FRONT MOTORS AN ESC that might work ? but getting it to all work from the same trasmitter is goin to be the trick ?
chris
well hi Rick yes as i said to John above i'll give it the good ole collage try but dont bet anthing on this lol but ive also got another idea ive just thought up an thats havin one batt to work the back set of motors an ESC an another to do the same on the OTHER SET OF FRONT MOTORS AN ESC that might work ? but getting it to all work from the same trasmitter is goin to be the trick ?
chris
That sounds like a good idea Chris and with a computer TX you should be able to mix 2 channels to handle it. I don't know the TX you are using but with the 2.4 gig Spektrum TX I had you could mix all sorts for flying planes and helicopters.
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