boatman's 1/72 HMS Tiger C20 build
Collapse
X
-
AN YES Doug the british way is just plain stupid an i think they cant do their sums these ship costin a 100 an 80 millon quid then they flog it for 3 millon something wrong there
AN YES Doug i certainly hope so but only time will tell
chisbComment
-
HELLO GUYS
well ive fitted in just the front two X MFA 540 motors an gave them a run on there own an well im quite dissapointed NOT VERY POWERFULL an so i ran all 4 motors thats the 2X MFA MOTORS AN 2 X JOHNSONS MOTORS that are already fitted in an too me the JOHNSONS MOTORS seemed more powerfull so im not goin to take out the JOHNSONS MOTORS but i will get the other 2 x MFA 540 MOTORS READY to just be fitted in an i cant send them back as the chap wont give me much as i paid as he said they will have been used an he is quite right so i will have too keep them an 2 pics the MFA ones are the ones with the yellow sticker on them an johnsons towards the rudder OH DEAR I THINK ill have to look at some bigger motors an props but yes Andy i know they will draw more current but so far the motors an props i have i dont think are up to the job
chrisbComment
-
Well that sucks like a sucky thing. This Ship is not being kind to you is she.
So the new motors seem weak compared to the Johnsons. What voltage are they getting? If the Johnsons are 12v and are getting 12v they are running full tilt. If the MFA's are set to run 15v and are only getting 12v then they will seem weaker.
I think the lack of power to propel the ship through the water, lies not so much in the speed the motor is turning But the useable power. Torque at the shaft/screw.
The best comparison I can think of right now is the good old Electric drill Verses an electric screw driver.
I have a mains power Black and decker that can turn very fast and a 10mm drill eats into wood quick as you like. However If I hold the chuck of the drill I can stop it quite easy.
I also have a little Black and Decker ixos screwdriver. About 1/8 the size of the big mains power job and runs at around 20v on a re-chargeable battery. It is very slow But impossible to stop with a hand. Its not fast but has huge torque.
Try to find out more about low rpm motors for R/C lorries and rock crawlers. I think I sent you a link to one such a while back. Slower motor = less draw on the battery but more umpff at the screws. The screws have a better chance of taking hold in the water and not thrashing it to foam. (cavitation). and can turn a good size screw which will add propulsion.
There is a video on YouTube of an R/C tugboat pulling a 'fully grown' man in a wooden row boat across a lake. Two 12 v low speed motors with large screws.
I read in the post when you purchased the new motors he said you could return them...It would be worth a try, and you have only used two of them. So you'll get most of your money. Was he a shop or was it a private sale?Comment
-
Well that sucks like a sucky thing. This Ship is not being kind to you is she.
So the new motors seem weak compared to the Johnsons. What voltage are they getting? If the Johnsons are 12v and are getting 12v they are running full tilt. If the MFA's are set to run 15v and are only getting 12v then they will seem weaker.
I think the lack of power to propel the ship through the water, lies not so much in the speed the motor is turning But the useable power. Torque at the shaft/screw.
The best comparison I can think of right now is the good old Electric drill Verses an electric screw driver.
I have a mains power Black and decker that can turn very fast and a 10mm drill eats into wood quick as you like. However If I hold the chuck of the drill I can stop it quite easy.
I also have a little Black and Decker ixos screwdriver. About 1/8 the size of the big mains power job and runs at around 20v on a re-chargeable battery. It is very slow But impossible to stop with a hand. Its not fast but has huge torque.
Try to find out more about low rpm motors for R/C lorries and rock crawlers. I think I sent you a link to one such a while back. Slower motor = less draw on the battery but more umpff at the screws. The screws have a better chance of taking hold in the water and not thrashing it to foam. (cavitation). and can turn a good size screw which will add propulsion.
There is a video on YouTube of an R/C tugboat pulling a 'fully grown' man in a wooden row boat across a lake. Two 12 v low speed motors with large screws.
I read in the post when you purchased the new motors he said you could return them...It would be worth a try, and you have only used two of them. So you'll get most of your money. Was he a shop or was it a private sale?
chrisbComment
-
AN JUST had another thought i wonder if i would be better off with them cam belt drive for tourge to props as i have two up in model room an i could take the two out of my norfolk so i would have 4 cam belt drive unit where it 3 to i ratio so if the motors are doin 3000 rpm then the prop shaft will be spinning at a 1000 rpm so i could try that as norfolk may not need these cam belt drive an fit just direck drive for norfolks motors as she does go to fast anyway im thinkin lol
chrisbComment
-
Well that sucks like a sucky thing. This Ship is not being kind to you is she.
So the new motors seem weak compared to the Johnsons. What voltage are they getting? If the Johnsons are 12v and are getting 12v they are running full tilt. If the MFA's are set to run 15v and are only getting 12v then they will seem weaker.
I think the lack of power to propel the ship through the water, lies not so much in the speed the motor is turning But the useable power. Torque at the shaft/screw.
The best comparison I can think of right now is the good old Electric drill Verses an electric screw driver.
I have a mains power Black and decker that can turn very fast and a 10mm drill eats into wood quick as you like. However If I hold the chuck of the drill I can stop it quite easy.
I also have a little Black and Decker ixos screwdriver. About 1/8 the size of the big mains power job and runs at around 20v on a re-chargeable battery. It is very slow But impossible to stop with a hand. Its not fast but has huge torque.
Try to find out more about low rpm motors for R/C lorries and rock crawlers. I think I sent you a link to one such a while back. Slower motor = less draw on the battery but more umpff at the screws. The screws have a better chance of taking hold in the water and not thrashing it to foam. (cavitation). and can turn a good size screw which will add propulsion.
There is a video on YouTube of an R/C tugboat pulling a 'fully grown' man in a wooden row boat across a lake. Two 12 v low speed motors with large screws.
I read in the post when you purchased the new motors he said you could return them...It would be worth a try, and you have only used two of them. So you'll get most of your money. Was he a shop or was it a private sale?
Years ago a friend changed the motor on his motor yacht. Great he thought, bigger engine more speed!!! Nah. An old boy in the shipyard told him needed to 'match' the prop to the motors output. A year or so later he changed the prop in Greece after smashing it up a tad. The Greek fitter got him a different prop that matched the yachts power/torque!!!! Overnight he went from 3-4 knots to just over 8kts!!
I think it may be worth a few hour researching torque, power out and propeller, pitch and diameter.
Mate, you have done wonders, the end post is in site. Before spending more dosh - try and establish what is causing the mismatch before you chase your self in circles.
If I'm talking round spherical things then please ignore me!!!Comment
-
HI Doug yes you also maybe right but i must admit this is the heaviest ship ive ever built an the first direct motor drive as all my other ships had cambelt drive an ive never had these probs before so i may do as i last said an fit her out with cambelt drives an see how that goes an a bit bigger props if they are needed but i hope not as these props are 35 quid each thats times 4
ATB
CHRISBComment
-
HI Doug yes you also maybe right but i must admit this is the heaviest ship ive ever built an the first direct motor drive as all my other ships had cambelt drive an ive never had these probs before so i may do as i last said an fit her out with cambelt drives an see how that goes an a bit bigger props if they are needed but i hope not as these props are 35 quid each thats times 4
ATB
CHRISB
Try the new motors separately and see what if anything you get in the form of movement. What the big boys do, they Med moor the ships, (Tie up stern to the dockyard wall), they start applying power to check out the propulsion systems. That would also mean you wouldn't have to swim/wade out into your water to retrieve Tiger in the event of a failure.
Also, on your control console, is power applied gradually or is it motors on or off?
I don't envy you your problems Chris. To get this far and start hitting snags. But stick with it dude - you'll get there.Comment
-
AN JUST had another thought i wonder if i would be better off with them cam belt drive for tourge to props as i have two up in model room an i could take the two out of my norfolk so i would have 4 cam belt drive unit where it 3 to i ratio so if the motors are doin 3000 rpm then the prop shaft will be spinning at a 1000 rpm so i could try that as norfolk may not need these cam belt drive an fit just direck drive for norfolks motors as she does go to fast anyway im thinkin lol
chrisb
Dont start pulling bits out of Norfolk.!
Try with the four new motors that are all the same. You have those so you might as well use them.
Is your test tank large enough to do a pull test. If you have a 7 foot boat a 10 foot tank is plenty. Just tie the boat up with bungy cord/elastic!
If you can reply to these questions I can have a chat with a mate here that is really into R/C boats.
If you had to guess the sailing weight of the boat what would you say.
The size of the screws: diameter pitch and number of blades. Photo?
Motors used volts and amps and all that
ESCs max output
Batteries 12v? Amps....
You probably think I'm a pain in the butt, but I really want to help you sort thisComment
-
I take it by your comment the motors are direct drive? To my simple mind, remember I have no experience of building these beasts. Loads of speed being fed directly to the prop! Maybe they spin but don't actually 'bite' into the water. Bit like my lads milk frother!!!!
Try the new motors separately and see what if anything you get in the form of movement. What the big boys do, they Med moor the ships, (Tie up stern to the dockyard wall), they start applying power to check out the propulsion systems. That would also mean you wouldn't have to swim/wade out into your water to retrieve Tiger in the event of a failure.
Also, on your control console, is power applied gradually or is it motors on or off?
I don't envy you your problems Chris. To get this far and start hitting snags. But stick with it dude - you'll get there.
so i can take the power up a few steps at a time an because no ratchet its very easy to give the power flat out instead of a bit at a time an ive been askin around on model boat mayhem if Carsons do a ratchet set for my T/X but so far no luck an if i was a bit braver i could do it myself as i have the ratchet an i was goin to try an fit it into the T/X an i took all the main screws out the back of the T/X
but there was still two inset screws right inside the casein an to me it looks like they are holdin in place some parts of the PCB BOARD an so dint dare undo them in case as when i pull off the back casein there might be bits spring everywhere so i aborted the attempt as i have done this before on cheap R/C T/X 's but this carsons cost nr £200 an i dont want to take that chance ON BUGGERIN IT UP
if you see what i mean an yes i think i will put her in the test tank an see how much thrust these props an motors give but there is a problem there as she cant hardly move as tiger is an inch under 8ft long an the test tank is 8ft in tolal so she cant move more than an inch which is not a lot off good as had the same prob with my nimitz carrier as she was about 8ft 6" but i was lucky as with a big carrier there is so much overhang on the bow so she just scraped in an yes i hope i will get there
ATB cheers for the info an help much apprecaited
chrisbComment
-
HI Doug cheers for the info on how they check real ships on propushlion an to ansewer your question on the R/C control T/X THE power can be applaied gently or sharply as its just pushin a controll stick that is the throttel like on the real ships BUT on my new carsons R/C T/X THERE IS NO RATCHET controll
so i can take the power up a few steps at a time an because no ratchet its very easy to give the power flat out instead of a bit at a time an ive been askin around on model boat mayhem if Carsons do a ratchet set for my T/X but so far no luck an if i was a bit braver i could do it myself as i have the ratchet an i was goin to try an fit it into the T/X an i took all the main screws out the back of the T/X
but there was still two inset screws right inside the casein an to me it looks like they are holdin in place some parts of the PCB BOARD an so dint dare undo them in case as when i pull off the back casein there might be bits spring everywhere so i aborted the attempt as i have done this before on cheap R/C T/X 's but this carsons cost nr £200 an i dont want to take that chance ON BUGGERIN IT UP
if you see what i mean an yes i think i will put her in the test tank an see how much thrust these props an motors give but there is a problem there as she cant hardly move as tiger is an inch under 8ft long an the test tank is 8ft in tolal so she cant move more than an inch which is not a lot off good as had the same prob with my nimitz carrier as she was about 8ft 6" but i was lucky as with a big carrier there is so much overhang on the bow so she just scraped in an yes i hope i will get there
ATB cheers for the info an help much apprecaited
chrisbComment
-
What is a Cam belt drive please?
Dont start pulling bits out of Norfolk.!
Try with the four new motors that are all the same. You have those so you might as well use them.
Is your test tank large enough to do a pull test. If you have a 7 foot boat a 10 foot tank is plenty. Just tie the boat up with bungy cord/elastic!
If you can reply to these questions I can have a chat with a mate here that is really into R/C boats.
If you had to guess the sailing weight of the boat what would you say.
The size of the screws: diameter pitch and number of blades. Photo?
Motors used volts and amps and all that
ESCs max output
Batteries 12v? Amps....
You probably think I'm a pain in the butt, but I really want to help you sort this
chrisbComment
-
cheers
chrisbComment
Comment