boatman's 1/72 HMS Tiger C20 build
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OK Chris, so your multimeter is 10 amp max.
You could take out any of the fuses in your power system and connect your meter instead of the fuse - move the red lead to that empty red socket marked 10ADC first. By doing this you can measure the current in each of the fused circuits without risking much - most of those multimeters will withstand an overload for at least a few seconds.
PeteComment
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Strange Chris. The lead acid shouldn't cause a problem, even under load, if they were weak and not holding a charge properly I would expect a drop out without much heat.
I remember the fused PCB, rogot about that, sorry. Stumped to be honest, only difference to your other boats is the PCB, maybe you need more heavy gauge wiring or the board is goosed.
Hope you manage to figure it out.
CHEERS Si for your help much appreacited as all you guys thank you but when i do cure it i'll let you all know
chrisComment
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Might be the voltage reducer, though the byproduct of dropping voltage is heat - simple way of dropping the voltage is by fitting a 6v light bulb in series (the wire comes from the positive side of the battery, and then carries on, but not to the negative terminal) also acts as a fuse
chrisComment
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chrisComment
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hope jen can keep me goin with tea an biccies lol
chrisComment
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OK Chris, so your multimeter is 10 amp max.
You could take out any of the fuses in your power system and connect your meter instead of the fuse - move the red lead to that empty red socket marked 10ADC first. By doing this you can measure the current in each of the fused circuits without risking much - most of those multimeters will withstand an overload for at least a few seconds.
Pete
chris ( phew guys im pooped) BUT ALL OF YOU MANY THANKS FOR YOUR HELPComment
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Well the only advice I can give when it comes to electrics is don't use the toaster in the bath!
Looking at what you've achieved so far Chris it's another setback that I'm sure you'll get to the bottom of just like you have everything else. Let's face it, you obviously relish a challenge or you wouldn't have started this build. :thumb2:Comment
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Well the only advice I can give when it comes to electrics is don't use the toaster in the bath!
Looking at what you've achieved so far Chris it's another setback that I'm sure you'll get to the bottom of just like you have everything else. Let's face it, you obviously relish a challenge or you wouldn't have started this build. :thumb2:
cheers
chrisComment
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HI Pete do you mean take the fuse out in the PDB BOARD ? as its a very exspensive bit of kit so i dont want to mess about any where near it but thank you for your info but i think i'll cocentrate first on that ole power reducucer bein replaced with a new one an see what happens as if it still get hot then i'll know that its not that as these are very good units as ived used several of these on my other ships an they all ok
chris ( phew guys im pooped) BUT ALL OF YOU MANY THANKS FOR YOUR HELP
PeteComment
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YEA you are right Si but i dont really want to mess about with this as its very costly
but first i'll try that voltage reducer replacement an if still a problem i will remove this board an just fit some in line fuses an then see if that make a difference
CHEERS GUYS BUT JEN is doin my tea soon so i'll leave it till tomorrow as no harm in getting as much info as poss before i start is there as there is plenty of time an i have to cut down the new voltage reducers as they are meant for use in a car ciggy lighter plug
chrisComment
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