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Looking great Carl.
As to bleed through on spraying, there are several things that may help.
The best tape I’ve used is the yellow kabuki tape from Tamiya. Nothing else comes close.
When spraying I find it best to spray away from the tape if at all possible. Spraying into the tape edge just pushes paint into any void it can find.
As Bob says, over spraying the masking first with the previously masked colour can seal the tape edge. On clear parts, using gloss varnish is a good idea. You have to be careful not to build up too much paint at the tape edge though.
Cheers
Tim
Carl are you usein tamyia maskin tape as i find thats very good but when you are fittin the tape on an over the small rideges on the hull i find you must use a very thin instrement or like me my finger nail to push the tape in each sides of the ridge an that will stop over spill hope this helps
chris
I did use the Tamiya white 2mm wide tape which is quite stretchy but despite using a cocktail stick to try to push it down either side I find the tape eventually lifts and in effect is sat 45 degrees across the gap.
maybe there is a better solution as this is a common occurrence.
OK,
the way I stop bleed is, after applying the masking tape - I use a fine brush, and run a thin bead of varnish over the edge of the tape. Use varnish the same finish as the masked area. The varnish should seal the edge of the tape and prevent any colour bleed - any varnish bleed will not show on the masked area ( ie matt, or gloss ).
I use acrylics only, but should work with enamels.
Dave
OK,
the way I stop bleed is, after applying the masking tape - I use a fine brush, and run a thin bead of varnish over the edge of the tape. Use varnish the same finish as the masked area. The varnish should seal the edge of the tape and prevent any colour bleed - any varnish bleed will not show on the masked area ( ie matt, or gloss ).
I use acrylics only, but should work with enamels.
Dave
Hi Dave, so I’m clear on this, you varnish over the edge of the tape onto the part your about to spray so in affect when you spray your spraying over a small edge of varnish as well?
Carl,
It's clear varnish, I'm talking about.
I apply the masking tape, pressing it down at the edges as normal
I then brush apply clear varnish over the edge of the masking tape. overlapping onto the clean non-taped surface.
Allow to dry.
Spray main colour - overlapping onto the masking tape.
Remove Tape
The clear varnish should seal any gaps & prevent colour bleed. I thin the varnish as lot, then feather the edge on the clean surface, so it fades out..................
Dave
Carl,
It's clear varnish, I'm talking about.
I apply the masking tape, pressing it down at the edges as normal
I then brush apply clear varnish over the edge of the masking tape. overlapping onto the clean non-taped surface.
Allow to dry.
Spray main colour - overlapping onto the masking tape.
Remove Tape
The clear varnish should seal any gaps & prevent colour bleed. I thin the varnish as lot, then feather the edge on the clean surface, so it fades out..................
Dave
I could try some of my humbrol clear Matt varnish then
Yep, rubbed down as best I could and re sprayed the hull red and black pin stripe. Next will be the final grey again and well
See if I have the same issues again.
LOOKIN very good Carl an hope you crack it an the same with Bob as if you do then hopefully it will work on Bob's mojo TO HAVE ANOTHER GO
KEEP UP THE GOOD MODDELERILING you are doin great
chris
Ok, so after some
Perseverance I have managed to get all three colours back on the hull and this time without bleeds. It’s come up surprisingly well considering it was not looking promising the other day. At least now I can start to move on to the Super structure which I’m sure will have its own challenges.
Progress so far.
Carl,
that's looking really good - have you any thoughts on the base - or will you use the Trumpeter one? I always think that two simple turned brass columns into a nice piece of stained wood really show off a full-hull model.
Dave
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