Revell 1/96 Spanish Galleon

[boatman]

Eye bolts are these thingies to thread rope through. It's the name they use in the destructions, although I prefer 'ropey holdey things'. In this case, each cannon has two ropes to put through the ropey holdey things. There's 20 cannons. Going to take a while.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1147081[/ATTACH]

Blimey this needs a hoover.

AN THANK YOU for the eye bolts answer as yes i now understand that how they pull the cannons throurgh the hull cut out to fire an no answers to my qeustion on wirein ?
chris

[Bobby Conkers]

EXCELLENT WORK there MR ConKers with the wirein but what are eye bolts ? an with all this wirein what lights are you havin working eg. how many ? an wires in the hull are they all just postitive an negative from each led ?
chris

So, yes, having gone to all the effort this requires a little more info!

So, I went through the instructions and marked where I wanted lighting. Decided on 1 in the fore deck, 1 in the mid deck, 2 in the half-deck 'room', two in the quarter deck room, replacing the plastic lanterns at the top of aft, 1 in the hull. Also, I've wired for a light in each of the three large crows nests and will see how it looks - not an authentic idea, but as it's a display model it might look odd having lighting only on the bottom 2/5, the model is very tall.

Once decided, I marked my holes on the pieces working backwards through the instructions. This took some care! I then measured the wire lengths needed plus 2 inches. All wires are loose, red for positive, except the mast wires which are the white ones - this is because it will be easier to make the wire look part of the mast if they won't conceal inside the mast (tbc).

I then tied each wire pair and labelled them, drilled the base of the hull and fed them through, as below.



They're obviously in order front to aft.

Then drilled the deck to feed these through, naturally in place where they can be concealed by subsequent pieces.



Those which are concealed (most of them) I will maximise the light with foil, but soften with diffused light from semi-transparent straws. For the aft lanterns and possibly the masts, I've created them from a mould from a single model railway streetlight.

Once lights are wired up, I can push the excess wire back through the deck into the hull. I'll be soldering or using connectors. Similarly, once all are wired, I will connect them all to the battery pack and feed the excess back through the hull.

The nameplate will disguise the wiring anyway, so I should just be left with a switch and hidden battery pack outside the hull.

I'll test each light as they're done with dry fitting to get the best effect.

Only thing I need to find is a glue which will hold tin foil! CA doesn't seem to hold foil, and obviously PVA won't bond to plastic...

[Bobby Conkers]

Just so I don't ignore the normal bits, a couple of deck furniture. As ever, I'm not just painting things black, so broke out the brass for no particular reason. Artistic license, that's the ticket.



Another point, am already regretting not opening some of the hinged windows on the hull. I was too fearful of doing damage I couldn't repair, but it would have looked better if successful. To be honest, not sure why they weren't optional pieces out of the box.

[boatman]

So, yes, having gone to all the effort this requires a little more info!

So, I went through the instructions and marked where I wanted lighting. Decided on 1 in the fore deck, 1 in the mid deck, 2 in the half-deck 'room', two in the quarter deck room, replacing the plastic lanterns at the top of aft, 1 in the hull. Also, I've wired for a light in each of the three large crows nests and will see how it looks - not an authentic idea, but as it's a display model it might look odd having lighting only on the bottom 2/5, the model is very tall.

Once decided, I marked my holes on the pieces working backwards through the instructions. This took some care! I then measured the wire lengths needed plus 2 inches. All wires are loose, red for positive, except the mast wires which are the white ones - this is because it will be easier to make the wire look part of the mast if they won't conceal inside the mast (tbc).

I then tied each wire pair and labelled them, drilled the base of the hull and fed them through, as below.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1147082[/ATTACH]

They're obviously in order front to aft.

Then drilled the deck to feed these through, naturally in place where they can be concealed by subsequent pieces.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1147083[/ATTACH]

Those which are concealed (most of them) I will maximise the light with foil, but soften with diffused light from semi-transparent straws. For the aft lanterns and possibly the masts, I've created them from a mould from a single model railway streetlight.

Once lights are wired up, I can push the excess wire back through the deck into the hull. I'll be soldering or using connectors. Similarly, once all are wired, I will connect them all to the battery pack and feed the excess back through the hull.

The nameplate will disguise the wiring anyway, so I should just be left with a switch and hidden battery pack outside the hull.

I'll test each light as they're done with dry fitting to get the best effect.

Only thing I need to find is a glue which will hold tin foil! CA doesn't seem to hold foil, and obviously PVA won't bond to plastic...

WELL THANK YOU MR ConKers for your wirein exsplanination an yes i think you have thought it all through an very well done on planning ahead on this wirein as you say when done any wire whats too long you can just push them back into the hull as plenty of space in there carry on i'll be watchin very good
chris

[wotan]

Andy

That is a thing of wonder. You seem to have everything well in hand. Blackpool will be put to shame.

John

[Bobby Conkers]

Thank you both. My experience in project management has certainly helped. I think it's my (comparative) inexperience in model making which makes me paranoid - just having the sense I've made a mistake somewhere or other. This is several levels of ambitious above anything I've done before.

Next job is to stick the cannons on, then we're onto the half decking and first set of lights. I think the cannons will take several hours alone as the ropes will be hyper fiddly.

[Bobby Conkers]

Cannons on. Not too bad, just strained my eyes a bit.

[Bobby Conkers]

Rear deck lights in. I've not bothered making a fancy lantern with these as they're just not visible. Used straws over the lights to diffuse them a bit. I will do some tidying, this is just unacceptable at the moment! This camera doesn't do them any favours, so just to show that I haven't cocked it up yet...

[boatman]

WELL done MR ConKers lookin good on the lights it will really set the model off an bring it to life very well done indeed
chris

[Jim R]

Hi Andy
I reckon your planning and organising all the electrics is just as interesting as the model making :smiling2: It is progessing very well and will make a stunning model - a real talking point.
Jim

[Bobby Conkers]

Hi Andy
I reckon your planning and organising all the electrics is just as interesting as the model making :smiling2: It is progessing very well and will make a stunning model - a real talking point.
Jim

Thank you both.

The planning is half the fun of this one, albeit a Tom Baker Dr Who from behind the sofa fun. Am hoping it will either be a salutory lesson in planning success, or a salutory lesson in failure! Either way, it's a win.

It's the next decks which will be more interesting, as from now on all the wires and lights need to be fed in an accurate position a deck ahead, as there's no way of relocating and hiding.

[scottie3158]

Andy,
This is looking mighty fine mate

[boatman]

HI MR ConKers what happening on this fine build ?
chris

[Bobby Conkers]

HI MR ConKers what happening on this fine build ?
chris

Thanks for the interest Chris. Not a lot the last couple of days, just working out a few other things. The half decks should be on this evening once I've done some strategic drilling - got to be very careful now as everything will be visible.

[Strenko J]

Cracking good work Andy.. can’t wait for the next update