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Ok thanks for the observations, you were all right and it’s supposed to be the other way round. Were I was confused, there should be a protrusion that has snapped off somewhere, so I’ll need to scratch something there which shouldn’t be too difficult, although I was going to paint and weather the slide separately…my need to rethink that now.
And with the guns made up (I have seen less complicated stand alone kits), that is construction complete. Next step is painting.
The AA gun was a pain in the arse. I could not get that mesh to fit at all….so some more ‘tactical damage’ has been added.
Started painting the torpedo, not a single picture seems to show a consistent colour scheme.
Waiting for some paint from John, so been painting a couple of the figures. Not sure about them if I'm honest. Primed in black, sprayed white from above and then went with a glaze in the respective colours. I don't think it's worked. Found it hard to get the glaze consistency right, it was either 'bubbly' and blotchy, or too think and lost it's transparency. Was not as easy as youtube suggested (as per).
Figures look ok to me Jack.
I’m guessing you diluted with water? The blotchy effect occurs because you have over diluted the paint. This is worse with lighter colours because of the white component of the pigment.
Regarding glazes, it’s best to dilute with glaze medium, and use darker colour’s because they work more effectively. If you want to glaze with lighter colours inks are more reliable, but still not great. My hint would be to paint the piece with the lighter colour then glaze it to add the shadows.
Painted figure looks fine. I find a drop of flow enhancer and some retarder helps acrylic glazes to cover evenly.
Thanks Jim...had another go using flow improver instead of water. Worked much better!
Originally posted by Tim Marlow
Figures look ok to me Jack.
I’m guessing you diluted with water? The blotchy effect occurs because you have over diluted the paint. This is worse with lighter colours because of the white component of the pigment.
Regarding glazes, it’s best to dilute with glaze medium, and use darker colour’s because they work more effectively. If you want to glaze with lighter colours inks are more reliable, but still not great. My hint would be to paint the piece with the lighter colour then glaze it to add the shadows.
Yes diluted with water (as per nightshift). The main colour I'm going with is a German Grey, mixed with a tiny bit of tan. Have gone again with some flow improver instead of water and it's definitely worked better. Thank you.
Now comes the battle with skin tones. I want them pretty pale looking, but may have gone a bit too pale with the skipper. The fellow far tight is a better shade. The other two have only had a first coat.
Just caught up with this - what a fabulous build! The scratch building is fantastic - attacking a kit like this must take a great at deal of courage, and plenty of skill to not muck it all up.
Don't sweat the paleness of the flesh tones, I think it's a valid idea.
If you're happy with the actual painting side, leave well alone and just bear it in mind for next time.
Not all that uniform, but not sure that will be noticed when in place. May need a couple more when I see what will and won't be seen.[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1190946[/ATTACH]
Well done Jack. I did the same for my 1/72 Walrus catapult leveling handles...saves time and money. Haven't been on your post lately but had I, would have edged you to do it this way.
To make same size circles I would wrap the wire a couple of times round the dowel and snip along one side.
I bet it was more satisfying making em.
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