Alu Baionet Locking System For Robbe U47

[Guest]

Hello out there. I was wondering if anyone has obtained Norbet Brugggen's alu baionet locking system for the Robbe u47 pressure container and if so does it eliminate having to use the Robbe front locking assembly unit? and how does it work. I will be using the standard Robbe dynamic system Can anyone shed any light on his product and how does it work?

Has anyone ordered via Dream Arts of Germany 1/40 scale conning tower - is it a complete set ie conning tower gun periscopes detailed conning tower deck etc... ? Can you speak via telephone, speaking in in English and have good service from them? I understand they accept paypal?

Has anyone tried to order original replacement Robbe spares ie conning towers/ lead keels etc,, (hard to get parts) and if so can you recommend a UK supplier? who has taken care of you?

Is Accurate Armour (even though only do 1/35 scale Ok for a Robbe replacment conning tower replacement?

Has anyone buit the Engel u177? and if so has documented the building process (I have this kit but unmade at this stage)

I thank anyone for their time and experience/ knowledge, I am not a RC Sub dreamer. I have a Robbe U47 in North Atlantic Scheme colours (95% complete) Also a generic Robbe U47 (60% Complete but missing parts) and a Robbe U47 kit unmade.. I will be honest with everyone I obtained the North Atlantic version U47 and the generic U47 for a swap. I have built the Robbe Seawolf and have some modeling experience - So basically a half virgin to this area of expertise. I will take everyones knowledge on board - please help!! Also Is the Robbe pressure container locking mehanism OK? I have read that over time it stretches the internal tray - possibly weaking the glue joint to the rear pressure cap? Has any one documented that specific assembly with pics?

Many thanks for anyones reply

ROBBE U47

margandy@yahoo.co.uk

[Guest]

Hello out there. I was wondering if anyone has obtained Norbet Brugggen's alu baionet locking system for the Robbe u47 pressure container and if so does it eliminate having to use the Robbe front locking assembly unit? and how does it work. I will be using the standard Robbe dynamic system Can anyone shed any light on his product and how does it work?Has anyone ordered via Dream Arts of Germany 1/40 scale conning tower - is it a complete set ie conning tower gun periscopes detailed conning tower deck etc... ? Can you speak via telephone, speaking in in English and have good service from them? I understand they accept paypal?

Has anyone tried to order original replacement Robbe spares ie conning towers/ lead keels etc,, (hard to get parts) and if so can you recommend a UK supplier? who has taken care of you?

Is Accurate Armour (even though only do 1/35 scale Ok for a Robbe replacment conning tower replacement?

Has anyone buit the Engel u177? and if so has documented the building process (I have this kit but unmade at this stage)

I thank anyone for their time and experience/ knowledge, I am not a RC Sub dreamer. I have a Robbe U47 in North Atlantic Scheme colours (95% complete) Also a generic Robbe U47 (60% Complete but missing parts) and a Robbe U47 kit unmade.. I will be honest with everyone I obtained the North Atlantic version U47 and the generic U47 for a swap. I have built the Robbe Seawolf and have some modeling experience - So basically a half virgin to this area of expertise. I will take everyones knowledge on board - please help!! Also Is the Robbe pressure container locking mehanism OK? I have read that over time it stretches the internal tray - possibly weaking the glue joint to the rear pressure cap? Has any one documented that specific assembly with pics?

Many thanks for anyones reply

ROBBE U47

margandy@yahoo.co.uk

Wow... a lot of questions there..well, ive built the U-47 and the XX1 both modded to static dive with Engel internals, the U-47 is highly modified to be U-69 a type V11c. The Accurate Armour tower is exactly the right size for the U-47, you have to replace the white metal parts with brass as the white metal is too soft, the quality is superb, its resin so you have to lighten it up a bit by removing excess thickeness on the underside. The bayonet fitting replaces the Robbe means of fastening the hull together, it works by having interlocking lugs and an O-Ring as you put the rear end on at an angle and then turn it through 90 degrees to the upright inline position it pulls the two parts of the bayonet ring together squashing the O-ring and its done. If you build the central screw joiner I would reccomend you silver solder the parts together rather than soft solder it , this makes it a lot stronger.

I think it only stretches the tray IF you overtighten it , i have a Sea wolf that has been in constant use for about 5 yrs and its still fine, you only nip up the O-Ring and not clamp it to death !. If you build it as a dynamic diver you will have to ballast it to decks awash to get it to dive and you will need a big pond.

Some pic of my U-69 with Accurate Armour tower etc hope they are of use.

P.S. try Sub Tech / Pandan model boats for any spares, Dave is a good chap and a sub modeller too.. he is on the web

Regards Sub.

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[Guest]

hI subzero - many thanks for all your time /advice - I wil now go out and multiply!!

[Guest]

PS SUBZERO - YOU HAVE MADE A FANATASTIC U BOAT!!

Robbe U47

[Guest]

hI subzero - many thanks for all your time /advice - I wil now go out and multiply!!

No probs there, you are welcome, We all learn something new every day, and we only learn by asking questions.

Hopefully I have attached a pic which should show you a close up of the Aluminium Bayonet ring you were enquiring about, should make it a bit easier to understand:grinball2:

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[Guest]

Thank you sub zero for your time once again Most appreciated. I think that that is a well thought out product for the Robbe U4 - Just twist and turn. I have had a reply from Norbert Bruggen today via email - He was very helpful and when I am ready he will ship one to me.

I also spoke to Accurate Armour - No probs with them I just do it on line!!

Any chance of some advice - If I cant source my additional lead keel weights designed for the Robbe U47 How would you tackle the problem of adding ballest to these subs (for dynamic diving only). Also the A BRACKET located just behind the props - How would you scratch build that I was thinking either brass or aluminum strip or diecut leftovers form the kit its just the rectangular braces. I had to rob one from my unmade kit to replace on the North Atlantic version.

Cheers for now

Robbe U47

[Guest]

Your welcome,

The more people we can get interested in the hobby the longer it will last. if you mean the bracket for the rudder support then I modified the piece you are enquiring about too , made it out of flat brass plate, you can use the plastic one as a template then cut it out of brass and bend it to shape, I have added a couple of pics of mine, the central support is brass tube soldered together with a central bolt holding it all in place, 3 pieces I think. hope the pics show you enough.

If you mean the prop shaft support infront of the prop, then brass tube to the size of the shaft about 4 mm long one for each end to act as abearing and a piece of brass tube to go over the two then solder them in then solder two pieces of brass tube of the correct diameter at the right angles to it for the supports long enough to go into the hull, then glue the supports in place into the hull with the prop shaft in place to hold it at the right angle , I would use stabbilitt express for this job it is an excellent glue for bonding dissimilar materials. Hope it all of use ??

:regards: Sub.

Ps you can make a wood mould the same size as the weights you need then melt some lead pieces and fill the mould and let cool

PLEASE MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS NO WATER / MOISTURE IN THE MOULD WHEN YOU POUR THE LEAD IN OR IT WILL EXPLODE...AND ALWAYS ..ALWAYS.. WEAR GLOVES / OVERALLS AND EYE PROTECTION..

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[Guest]

Thank you subzero for that information/ advice and pics. I will give it a try as I have nothing to lose. I will take some pics of my North Atlantic (just fininshing off some cosmetic at rear of stern as the chap who had built her sanded too much away form the rear deck hull so when you clamp together it is approx 3 mill below the bow and middle decking. Also I will show works in progress for my 2nd U47. All subs are in France at our holiday home so I will post at end of June. I will try and get the bracket support fabricated and sorted before I return. I have found a lovely port not to far away from us which has a a perfect boating area as it has a locK holding back the water to the port. Perhaps If I ask Moisseur harbor master nicely enough in French He might give me some sailing rights. Saltwater is all I can find at present but will be adventuring out for source of freshwater lake. I kow that saltwater has different bouyancy effects than fresh and also you have to clean out and regrease yousr shafts after a daily use so I will have to take that into consideration. Also I do not know what the French will think of sailing a scaled down version of a German u boat?

Cheer for now

Robbe U47

[Guest]

Careful as salt water also reduces radio range significantly, though as I dynamic diver you may want to have your failsafe set to stop the motors, so your sub pops back up.

[Guest]

Careful as salt water also reduces radio range significantly, though as I dynamic diver you may want to have your failsafe set to stop the motors, so your sub pops back up.

Hi Mankster Thanks for that The l saltwater lock space is very very deep!! - Almost forgot about the salt water rc signal thereom!!, I personally hate running rc boats/ subs in saltwater ie cleaning out the shafts every after every use use but its the only space big enough to run them so far. I will try and source a freshwater lake nearby - I will have to ask the locals! We will have a pool soon but at 8x4 just enough space to float and take pictures of!

Just got my Accurate Armour conning tower kit - Those guys up in Scotland sure know how to give good service - Ordered it yesterday and received today Wow!! Please note they have advised me that all Accurate Armour conning tower kits are in resin and plastic now. I will have a little peek inside the box in the next couple of days and give a little review/ Pics for all you Thinking of converting the Robbe U47 conning tower

-Robbe U47

[Guest]

Norbert Bruggen Bayonet Fittings

Your welcome,The more people we can get interested in the hobby the longer it will last. if you mean the bracket for the rudder support then I modified the piece you are enquiring about too , made it out of flat brass plate, you can use the plastic one as a template then cut it out of brass and bend it to shape, I have added a couple of pics of mine, the central support is brass tube soldered together with a central bolt holding it all in place, 3 pieces I think. hope the pics show you enough.

If you mean the prop shaft support infront of the prop, then brass tube to the size of the shaft about 4 mm long one for each end to act as abearing and a piece of brass tube to go over the two then solder them in then solder two pieces of brass tube of the correct diameter at the right angles to it for the supports long enough to go into the hull, then glue the supports in place into the hull with the prop shaft in place to hold it at the right angle , I would use stabbilitt express for this job it is an excellent glue for bonding dissimilar materials. Hope it all of use ??

:regards: Sub.

Ps you can make a wood mould the same size as the weights you need then melt some lead pieces and fill the mould and let cool

PLEASE MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS NO WATER / MOISTURE IN THE MOULD WHEN YOU POUR THE LEAD IN OR IT WILL EXPLODE...AND ALWAYS ..ALWAYS.. WEAR GLOVES / OVERALLS AND EYE PROTECTION..

Trying to find out if I can use a clear pipe sized in 114.30mm O.D. X 101.55mm I.D. or a pipe with the same 114.30mm O.D. X 96.16 I.D.

I can lathe the I.D. or O.D. to match the bayonet rings if needed but hope the rings are close in size.

[Guest]

Hi there. Have received the tech rack and the Bayonet ring set (like you have). Lots to do on my retro fit. This will ensure all my bits and pieces are better installed, and the opportunity to position lower (heavy parts). The bayonet systems requires the use of silicon grease. Trying to see how it works (not in situ), it's almost impossible. Been assured from the supplier once fited and with grease is very easy.

No probs there, you are welcome, We all learn something new every day, and we only learn by asking questions.Hopefully I have attached a pic which should show you a close up of the Aluminium Bayonet ring you were enquiring about, should make it a bit easier to understand:grinball2: