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[HEADING=2]Dear Guys![/HEADING]
[HEADING=2]Today we tested the card payment on the site, there is only one more step before the open again.[/HEADING]
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In fairness that could be said of anything that we use from PE and all the potions and lotions. Some people avoid them and others love them. It's a great part of the hobby watching people achieve excellent results in their own way.
Thanks for posting that Dave, as you beat me to it. It is a hobby and we all have our ways of utilizing what is or isn't available out there or whether you like it or not. Jakko also hit the nail on the head...It's a personal choice...
It seems that his post was directed towards my previous posts in this thread, a bit harsh, but that's okay with me. I am just a bit puzzled over one thing,
Originally posted by Magneto
so no need for metal anything except one for thing on German armour - which definitely justifies its use.
What might that be? Pry bar, tool clamps, intake screens, Schürzen???...Inquiring minds want to know...
Thanks for posting that Dave, as you beat me to it. It is a hobby and we all have our ways of utilizing what is or isn't available out there or whether you like it or not. Jakko also hit the nail on the head...It's a personal choice...
It seems that his post was directed towards my previous posts in this thread, a bit harsh, but that's okay with me. I am just a bit puzzled over one thing,
What might that be? Pry bar, tool clamps, intake screens, Schürzen???...Inquiring minds want to know...
Prost
Allen
Hi Allen
The Schürzen seems to be best replicated by PE - the real thickness was 5mm which means about 0.15mm at 35 scale. Only PE can get that close but at least they are nice large solid plates. They can be battle damaged and missing as single plates whereas the plastic ones are typically one complete piece
0.15mm is pretty thin for etch stock Paul. It is also pretty flimsy after etching so is difficult to handle. I have experience of this as I used to build etch brass locos and half etch stock was what was usually supplied for smoke box wrappers. Soft as tissue. If you were unlucky you could leave fingerprints on it.
Most etch is made using 15 - 20 thou stock, which is about 0.35 - 0.50mm thick if you are using new money. This means that if you are after absolute fidelity of scale you need to cut your own from 5 thou sheet stock.
The nearest you can get in plastic is probably 0.13 mm sheet, but that’s a bit too flexible. A better choice is 0.25 mm, though that would be too thick for scale thickness, it’s much less likely to warp. Over on Missing-Lynx the other week, someone recommended using clear plastic card for Schürzen because it’s much stiffer than the same thickness in white:
The nearest you can get in plastic is probably 0.13 mm sheet, but that’s a bit too flexible. A better choice is 0.25 mm, though that would be too thick for scale thickness, it’s much less likely to warp. Over on Missing-Lynx the other week, someone recommended using clear plastic card for Schürzen because it’s much stiffer than the same thickness in white:
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Excellent call, my dear Jakko! I shall be having a closer look at this:smiling3:
0.15mm is pretty thin for etch stock Paul. It is also pretty flimsy after etching so is difficult to handle. I have experience of this as I used to build etch brass locos and half etch stock was what was usually supplied for smoke box wrappers. Soft as tissue. If you were unlucky you could leave fingerprints on it.
Most etch is made using 15 - 20 thou stock, which is about 0.35 - 0.50mm thick if you are using new money. This means that if you are after absolute fidelity of scale you need to cut your own from 5 thou sheet stock.
It is very thin - and to be honest I was kind of guessing as to how thick (or thin) the etched panels can get. Well, much thinner than the all in one ’frontal armour’ side skirts of most supplied kits.:smiling3:
Any way I’ve made the most of the kit skirts - by scribing, thinning down edges and cutting, etc. Its quite a bit of work but rather satisfying - if you can succeed.
If scale thickness is a real issue I’d cut my own from 10 thou nickel silver sheet. Not difficult at all with the right tools and techniques. It handles better than brass and is much easier to solder when you build up the supporting framework. The extra thickness will not be noticeabl.
Regardless of what some people think Friuls have been a Godsend to those of us that have trouble with single tracks.
Supposed this post will be removed as my earlier reply was.
Well, since I was last on site prior to yesterday, Friul has gone out of business . But thankfully resurfaced again almost immediately , that is great news in my view, I find using them improves the model kit a great deal , also I find cleaning and building them very therapeutic. Glad they are still going to be around,
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