Filler Putty

[Vaughan]

MMD Green Putty

Hi all I've bought some MMD fast drying green Putty has anybody used it? I haven't tried it yet but reading the warnings on it I don't know if I want to!!. It says it contains toluene which produce harmful vapours and goes on to mention about chemicals known to the State of California that can cause birth defects!!

Vaughan

[Guest]

Cannot be certain andygh it is different only that my experience was not the same. As Steve has pointed out we all have our likes etc.

According to the Vallejo website the stuff in the bottle is exactly the same as your tube filler, maybe I got one from a dodgy batch:sobbing:

Hi all I've bought some MMD fast drying green Putty has anybody used it? I haven't tried it yet but reading the warnings on it I don't know if I want to!!. It says it contains toluene which produce harmful vapours and goes on to mention about chemicals known to the State of California that can cause birth defects!!

It's fine, just don't eat it or stuff it up your nose, especially if you're pregnant :lala:

Seriously, many of us have been using fillers containing toluene for decades. Don't forget safety warnings are far more stringent in the U.S.

Personally I like Revell Plasto

[Guest]

I'm watching some revell plasto on eBay, the cheapest of them all to get hold of at the moment via eBay so I might be trying that first - I haven't tried fillers yet!

I wonder if bog standard decorators caulk would do the trick.....

[Guest]

I'm watching some revell plasto on eBay, the cheapest of them all to get hold of at the moment via eBay so I might be trying that first - I haven't tried fillers yet!I wonder if bog standard decorators caulk would do the trick.....

I'm using some leftover coving adhesive. I think it must be a PVA glue with some grainy stuff added.

It works very well, and is water based, so no harmful fumes.

Tony

[Guest]

No More Nails works as a pretty good filler. It cleans up with water & if you've got an old Revell Contacta pot with the needle-tube, you can apply it very precisely.

It does shrink a little as it cures though, but at a £1, I'm prepared to put up with that!

Cheers

Patrick

[Guest]

My thoughts are try it Curtis. In the 18 months I have been constructing models I think I have tried most things but none which are not original to making models. I assume that we are talking plastic models.

Like to think that most fillers are designed & for the purpose they are intended. Builders caulk is for plaster & wood although they may work for other materials.

Also I have found that you need more fillers to your bow for a variety of reasons. Thin gaps to horribly wide gaps where perhaps a stretched plastic sprue would be used. I use Mr Surfacer for thin joints but only usable on the original plastic. Seems to have a similar hardness to plastic & sticks to plastic plus it sands exactly like plastic without breaking away. Doubt if the builders fillers do this but are first class for wood & plaster. Also caulking or decorators filler in the tube is a one chance get it right first time as you cannot sand it.

I was a great fan of Vallejo filler which I still am but I use that now for difficult filling around curves & difficult areas to get into then use B & Q decorators wipes to clean & smooth the joint before it dries. Then there is no requirement for sanding as it does not sand all that well but with this method gives a good clean filled joint. Also use Vallejo on primed areas. Some fillers I have found will act as paint strippers. Fillers I have found are very personal to the way you build & the materials you use to finish your model. One persons magic is another persons poison. I have a couple of fillers I have only used once & never again.

One thing I have learnt is to give more attention to fitting as this can remove a problem or make it a very minor one. Have a look on Flory models where he has a demonstration of using fillers which is first class but then adapt to your own needs & methods.

Laurie

[Guest]

I've got a tube of decorators caulk in the cupboard so I might attempt using that before I try more expensive model fillers!

Squirt some on a piece of card and apply with a cocktail stick perhaps for the smallers gaps?

[Guest]

Curtis I would try putting in more than you need into the gap. I would then, as I do when home decorating, wet my finger & carefully drag it down the joint. Then get a piece of soft cotton fluff free. Wet it & drag it over the filler & joint to clean it up & smooth.

Hope it works. Problem is once it goes off you cannot sand it as it will be plasticy. As mentioned I use the B & Q decorators wipes which do a first class job as they are coated with some water based liquid. If the filler shrinks you have a problem as you have to fill again.

Laurie

[Guest]

I've got some stuff from work called Siroflex trade strength mighty strength, and it will bond to pretty much anything, even when wet so that definitely worth a try too I think, will be fairly hard to sand down though because of the plasticity as you mentioned before Laurie, so itll be one of them things that need perfecting whilst still wet.