Problem with decal silvering:used Vallejo Decal Fix

[Guest]

Seems as if Vallejo Decal Fix is a far better product than the Humbrol Decal Fix as I like the way you say the decal actually molds it's self to the aircraft or any thing which has decals on it, I have just ordered a bottle form the Scale Model Shop....now I must close my Pay Pal account as I have spent enough this week Ha Ha Ha

Unless your wife gets there first.


Laurie

[Guest]

Seems as if Vallejo Decal Fix is a far better product than the Humbrol Decal Fix as I like the way you say the decal actually molds it's self to the aircraft or any thing which has decals on it, I have just ordered a bottle form the Scale Model Shop....now I must close my Pay Pal account as I have spent enough this week Ha Ha Ha

The Humbrol is quite good but it is really only a fixative if that's even a word. Let's the decal slid about. Nice where a less aggressive product isn't required

[stona]

You can only make a meaningful comparison between various decal fixing/setting agents using the same decals on the same surface. Anything else is just opinion as decals vary so much.


Cheers


Steve (with his old lab coat on!)

[Guest]

You can only make a meaningful comparison between various decal fixing/setting agents using the same decals on the same surface. Anything else is just opinion as decals vary so much.
Cheers


Steve (with his old lab coat on!)

Agree Steve that is what am doing. Plus in various ways as I have now received the missing solution. With my butchers apron on


Laurie

[stona]

Not really Laurie. You've tried various solutions on one set of decals on one model. What works for one set of decals may not work for another. The greatest variation is in the decal films, not the model surfaces, though these too vary. One of the things a decent gloss coat will do is make the surfaces more similar but it does nothing for the decal film.


You need to apply decals from various decal sheets, printed on different decal films, to the same surface and then apply the different products. You will inevitably find that some work better than others on different films.


Cheers


Steve

[john i am]

Oh nooooooooo Laurie that's your theory blown out the water by the man with the lab coat. Here I was thinking you'd stumbled across the miracle cure for decal silvering guess now the jury's out.


But just for the hell of it I'll get some anyways and I can always cuss and curse you if it doesn't work.

[Guest]

Actually so far I have tried two decals Hasawega and Revell Steve. Both on varnished and matt paint.


With the Decal medium added next time. I will try as many decals possible until my patience is tried.


At the moment I am looking on the optimistic side but like all things the proof is in the eating.


But the interesting thing here is that the two Micros have failed. What is interesting is that Decal Fix has


worked and the seeming fact , to be proved, that you can apply decals on matt paint with out silvering.


laurie

[stona]

It's also worth remembering that different brand solutions vary considerably in strength. Some decals will be destroyed by an average solution (like Microsol) whilst others will be impervious to it.


I always experiment with an unwanted decal before applying any solution to the decals on a model. It's easy to dilute a solution if it is too strong. If it doesn't work on a particular set of decals, then you'll need to find a stronger one.


I tend to take Microsol, which I generally use, as a benchmark to estimate other solutions. I use the red (heavy) Daco softener for really recalcitrant decals but you need to be careful with it! It is definitely a stronger solution than Microsol. I've also got some Mr Mark Softener which seems (unscientifically) stronger than Microsol whilst not quite as fierce as the Daco product. Daco to produce three different strengths but I've only used the strongest.


Another trick is to use really hot (as hot as you can stand) water to remove the decals from the backing. The hot water will soften the decals somewhat before you add any solutions. You can also use a softener (like Microsol) as a setting solution, but you need to work quickly as the average decal will start softening and be risky to move in about 15-20 seconds!


After that a hair dryer and careful application of pressure can work wonders after the decals are applied. Again you need to be careful to soften the decal and not melt the model


Cheers


Steve

[Guest]

I have now got hold of both Vallejo Decal Fixer and Decal Medium. Vallejo say use Decal medium


as the base before applying the decal. Fixer after. There are an number of tutorials which seem to


mix up these ie vice versa. Vallejo instructions. http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/applying-decals/blog/1/35


To recap I had trouble with all the Revell (British Decals) on the Hasewaga Apache. I had sprayed two coat of


Humbrol Clear. Then applied the decals with just water. Some silvering but the main problem was the clear part


of the decal stood out and looked not very nice. Applied Vallejo Decal Fix and the clear decal disappeared. The


decal fix area dried matt.


The white rivets are not silvered bits they have just caught the light.


[ATTACH]124510.IPB[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]124511.IPB[/ATTACH]



I then tried the medium and fixer on just the matt finish of the Vallejo paint. This was as per the Vallejo instructions above.


I used about 6 different manufacturers decals. Out of the 6 there were two with minor silvering which I left with out trying


to rectify. The results especially considering that the decals were applied direct to the paint with out varnishing are good.


[ATTACH]124512.IPB[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]124513.IPB[/ATTACH]



75036 is partly silvered on the 6. Bottom of the R on R9125. What may look silvered elsewhere is the photo lights giving glare.


Other than those mentioned all turned out perfectly. But edges of the clear decals were seen if looked at very closely.


However I think on balance that I will still coat with two coats of Humbrol Clear then use the method the Vallejo instructions


above detail. The finish I achieved on the first two photos above were as good as perfect.


For small bits and pieces for which applying two coats of Humbrol Clear would be a chore the Vallejo way would be perfect.


Not saying this is better or worse in most circumstances than the Micros. In my case with the Revell Decals the Micros did


not work the Vallejo did. And so the Vallejo product, for me, is another thing on the shelf in case.


Laurie

[Guest]

I have now got hold of both Vallejo Decal Fixer and Decal Medium. Vallejo say use Decal medium
as the base before applying the decal. Fixer after. There are an number of tutorials which seem to


mix up these ie vice versa. Vallejo instructions. http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/applying-decals/blog/1/35


To recap I had trouble with all the Revell (British Decals) on the Hasewaga Apache. I had sprayed two coat of


Humbrol Clear. Then applied the decals with just water. Some silvering but the main problem was the clear part


of the decal stood out and looked not very nice. Applied Vallejo Decal Fix and the clear decal disappeared. The


decal fix area dried matt.


The white rivets are not silvered bits they have just caught the light.


[ATTACH]136568[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]136569[/ATTACH]


I then tried the medium and fixer on just the matt finish of the Vallejo paint. This was as per the Vallejo instructions above.


I used about 6 different manufacturers decals. Out of the 6 there were two with minor silvering which I left with out trying


to rectify. The results especially considering that the decals were applied direct to the paint with out varnishing are good.


[ATTACH]136570[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]136571[/ATTACH]


75036 is partly silvered on the 6. Bottom of the R on R9125. What may look silvered elsewhere is the photo lights giving glare.


Other than those mentioned all turned out perfectly. But edges of the clear decals were seen if looked at very closely.


However I think on balance that I will still coat with two coats of Humbrol Clear then use the method the Vallejo instructions


above detail. The finish I achieved on the first two photos above were as good as perfect.


For small bits and pieces for which applying two coats of Humbrol Clear would be a chore the Vallejo way would be perfect.


Not saying this is better or worse in most circumstances than the Micros. In my case with the Revell Decals the Micros did


not work the Vallejo did. And so the Vallejo product, for me, is another thing on the shelf in case.


Laurie

Thanks for this post matey