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502 Abteilung oil paints. First impressions

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  • Guest

    #1

    502 Abteilung oil paints. First impressions

    As someone who has worked with paints on a daily and professional basis, I occasionally come across a product that is genuinely exciting and full of potential. I say occasionally, these paints are the fourth such discovery, in 43 years! I bought a few tubes of this paint on the back of a couple of reviews from modellers in a magazine, and in Michael Rinaldi's book "TankArt 2", where he describes his "oil paint rendering" techniques in detail. I had tried this technique using Winsor & Newton's "Winton" oil paints, with some success, but it was counter-intuitive and became streaky very easily unless I applied an unreasonably light touch. When I read the reviews, they all stressed that the combination of these paints and their matching odourless thinner, really made a difference, so I took the plunge and sent off my postal order to John!


    Firstly, the cost - John sells them for £3.50 odd for 20ml, which is around the same price as a Winton tube, but for that you get 35ml. So they are more expensive, but it has to be borne in mind that you tend to use a tiny amount each time, so they really will last for a lot of paint jobs.


    Now the quality - the paints are really creamy and smooth, uncannily so! They have almost no smell at all, unless you put your nose close up to the nozzle, same goes for the thinner too. And here's why I love them so much already, they blend with the thinner really, really easily, so filters can be mixed in seconds, and separation is so much less of an issue, so, in laying a filter on my Tiger this afternoon, I only had to give the mix a little tickle with the brush once. this was an hour ago, and the tank is dry as a bone now, and the mixture is still pretty well mixed, so I can give it another coat when I've finished this.


    I have also played around on an abandoned T62 kit, using Rinaldi's method for fading and weathering, mostly using a single Umber type brown, to break up the overall surface colour, and add wear and tear, plus faded areas, and this is a doddle compared with using Artists paints. I'm not claiming or saying that you can't do this with artists paints, you can, and many modellers do - very successfully - but I do claim that they are SO much more forgiving, and much more likely to encourage other modellers to experiment with this (IMHO) awesome technique. It is a slow and multi layered approach, but I love doing it, and the results thus far have completely convinced me that I want to master the technique.






    Here's my first effort, which was really enjoyable to do, safe in the knowledge that when I look at it in the cold light of day the next day, I can adjust any glaring errors with a brush and a drop of thinner. I'm not putting this up as a "Great Build" Tank, by ant means, just a quick example of how effective the technique is to create a realistic worn surface.


    All of this is, of course, work in progress, but I'll keep you posted as to how it pans out.


    I'm hooked!
  • rickoshea52
    SMF Supporters
    • Dec 2011
    • 4076
    • Rick

    #2
    I use these for weathering too, particularly for streaking effects. With rust colours they are very effective but with dark mud, for example, dirty streaks can be created that look great. I have also dabbled with dirty white thinned to fade the yellow warning panels on locomotives and the dark blue bodywork.


    Recommended from me too.
    On the bench: Airfix 1/48 Sea King HC4, Revell 1/24 Trabant.
    Coming soon: Airfix 1/72 Phantom FGR2.
    Just finished: Airfix 1/48 Stuka & Airfix 1/72 Sea King HC4.

    Comment

    • matto21
      • Apr 2014
      • 182

      #3
      Looks great! I've got a couple of tubes - Wash Brown and Faded Grey if I remember correctly - that I've used a few times and I like them.


      I've also used the Faded Grey for drybrushing and it's worked well.

      Comment

      • Guest

        #4
        Thanks for sharing this info John.

        Comment

        • Guest

          #5
          I've managed three filters today, since writing that piece, I doubt that I will ever use anything else for filters, my Tiger is getting near the right base colour now! What's also nice is that they don't demand expensive brushes, those cheap Boldmere ones from the Range, or The Works, are absolutely fine. I'm always a little loathe to use fine sables with oils, I just know that I'll forget one some day, and go in the next morning and weep!

          Comment

          • Guest

            #6
            Sounds good enough for me I will have to get some.

            Comment

            • Guest

              #7
              I'm sure you won't regret it, I made a filter today from field grey, Snow White and blue, great way to sneak some blue into the grey. I do believe the thinner is part of the equation, only for mixing and working it, ordinary white spirit is fine for cleaning up! So much potential.

              Comment

              • Robert1968
                • Mar 2015
                • 3596

                #8
                I've had a wash brown for about two years and I've hardly used it as you only need minute amounts and mixes well with w/s


                Good value for money


                Regards


                Robert

                Comment

                • aaron
                  • Oct 2011
                  • 2019

                  #9
                  I use abteilung oil paints over a Matt base coat and they dry blend beautifully to achieve a faded look in panels and raised details. The only setback is drying time. Great review of an awesome product John.

                  Comment

                  • Guest

                    #10
                    Originally posted by \
                    I use abteilung oil paints over a Matt base coat and they dry blend beautifully to achieve a faded look in panels and raised details. The only setback is drying time. Great review of an awesome product John.
                    Thanks Aaron, as you can tell, I'm really excited about these paints! I am gonna buy more next month

                    Comment

                    • Guest

                      #11
                      Maybe I should get a set.

                      Comment

                      • Guest

                        #12
                        Originally posted by \
                        I'm sure you won't regret it, I made a filter today from field grey, Snow White and blue, great way to sneak some blue into the grey. I do believe the thinner is part of the equation, only for mixing and working it, ordinary white spirit is fine for cleaning up! So much potential.
                        Hi John,


                        I still can't get what is a filter. You might be able to enlighten me on this one. Thanks a bunch

                        Comment

                        • Guest

                          #13
                          Originally posted by \
                          Hi John,
                          I still can't get what is a filter. You might be able to enlighten me on this one. Thanks a bunch
                          Put simply, a filter is a very thin wash, but one used to adjust/alter/enhance the colour. It differs (in model making terms) from a wash, in that it is usually brushed out and not allowed to "pool" into recesses. It can, of course, also be sprayed on. As an example, my new Tiger is at a point where I'm applying filters. It is too grey at the moment, and I need to get it to that bluey-grey that some German armour was painted in, so I will mix a warmish blue, in with some grey and brush that out on the model until the colour has been achieved, which will take 2-3 very thin coats (we are talking dirty thinners here, rather than paint).


                          This technique has been used for centuries by artists, and in oil painting, is called "glazing" and in watercolours "washes". A colour made from many thin layers of variants of that colour, always looks deeper and richer than just mixing it up in a pot and giving it one coat!

                          Comment

                          • Guest

                            #14
                            Originally posted by \
                            Maybe I should get a set.
                            Well, if you use oils for anything in model making Ken, these are as good as they get. If you bought a brown and a black and play around with them if for no other reason than making super cheap washes and filters. By which time you will be hooked!

                            Comment

                            • Guest

                              #15
                              Originally posted by \
                              Hi John,
                              I still can't get what is a filter. You might be able to enlighten me on this one. Thanks a bunch
                              This is my Tiger in progress, the grey on the left is too simple, too cold and needing attention. The one on the right has had about 4 very thin coats of differing coloured filters, and is now approaching the shade I am after - not there yet! The next (final) filter coats will be a raw umber (Brown) to warm the colour up a tad, but, as I said before, we are talking 95-98% thinner, and a tiny scrape of oil paint.






                              This process is painstakingly slow, but totally absorbing and controllable. Once the filters are finished, I'll give it a thin coat of varnish, apply the decals, another coat of varnish, then the real fun begins,


                              fading, wear, and a tiny bit of chipping - all with the new oil paints.

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