Fenghua 0.2 mm Nozzle Double-Action Airbrush BD-180

[Guest]

It says in the spec "Teflon gasket resistant to solvents" now there are a few seals in an airbrush and this says gasket singular so I am not sure which one is or if more than one is. I have to say though that I used cellulose and Alclad in my first unbranded airbrush that would not have had Teflon seals and I cannot say it came to any harm because of it.


I used to spray Alclad and flush through with Celulose thinners followed by normal airbrush cleaner. I have no doubt that over a length of time in contact with hot thinners, the seals may suffer but in normal use they shouldn't be in contact for that long.


I also used the same, and enamel paints thinned with Celulose through my low cost Iwata and that didn't have Teflon seals either. Again, I personally found no issue with it.

[Guest]

I once asked the airbrush company the same question about the Neo which doesn't have a Teflon seal, they told me that because of where the seal is it should affect it

Should that be should not affect it John?

[John]

.
Should that be should not affect it John?

Yes it should

[Guest]

This is a really great review.


And something for beginner's to think about.

[Robert1968]

This is a really great review.
And something for beginner's to think about.

Always good to have a good review of a product, not just the flannel from the sales pitch point of view.


I'm thinking here though if the airbrushed are getting better and..... Cheaper won't this affect the big brands like Hand S or Badger etc

[Guest]

Always good to have a good review of a product, not just the flannel from the sales pitch point of view.
I'm thinking here though if the airbrushed are getting better and..... Cheaper won't this affect the big brands like Hand S or Badger etc

Nope, they still sell a Range Rovers, Porche, Ferrari, Bently and Rolls Royce. They didn't go out of business when Skoda started selling good cheap cars.

[Guest]

Nope, they still sell a Range Rovers, Porche, Ferrari, Bently and Rolls Royce. They didn't go out of business when Skoda started selling good cheap cars.

Only advantage is if they start to notice a dent in their market share they might start to rethink their profit margin when pricing their newest brushes.

[yak face]

It says in the spec "Teflon gasket resistant to solvents" now there are a few seals in an airbrush and this says gasket singular so I am not sure which one is or if more than one is. I have to say though that I used cellulose and Alclad in my first unbranded airbrush that would not have had Teflon seals and I cannot say it came to any harm because of it.
I used to spray Alclad and flush through with Celulose thinners followed by normal airbrush cleaner. I have no doubt that over a length of time in contact with hot thinners, the seals may suffer but in normal use they shouldn't be in contact for that long.


I also used the same, and enamel paints thinned with Celulose through my low cost Iwata and that didn't have Teflon seals either. Again, I personally found no issue with it.

I would always advise caution when using cellulose (laquer )thinners through an airbrush if youre not sure of the nature of the seals . Even though if at first it may seem to not have affected them , if they are plain rubber the solvent will have softened and swelled them slightly , causing the needle to become sticky in its action and can even stop it moving altogether if left for a while. This is fairly easily solved by fitting another rubber seal (if you can get one that is!) or replacing the seal with a ptfe one ( the' T 'word) . Im considering replacing the seals on one of my chinese cheapies with these and seeing if it works using cellulose , If it does i'll post up the results , cheers tony

[Guest]

I confess that I'm often confused about the notion of seals being affected by the use of cellulose thinners.


The reason for my confusion is... what seals?! On the cheapo Chinese airbrushes I've used before, I can only identify 2 of them. One is an o ring twixt the nozzle cap & airbrush body, and the other is in the air valve assembly that the trigger sits in.


In normal use neither of these should come into contact with paint or thinner. Am I missing something? Help!!

[yak face]

The one that can cause issues patrick is the one that the needle goes through behind the mixing chamber but in front of the trigger assembly

part no 6 on this diagram. this seal prevents the paint/medium from going back into the workings of the trigger /air valve etc . if this swells or becomes sticky then the needle wont operate properly cheers tony

[Guest]

Never had a needle packing seal on any of my airbrushes Tony! Clearly I've been diddled or more likely I've inadvertently lost it the first time I cleaned it

[yak face]

It'll have been there patrick , perhaps it stayed in place when you took out the needle guide , without it paint and thinners would be free to pass back into the trigger mechanism and air valve causing a bit of a mess , so if this isnt happening its still there doing its job , tony

[stona]

All airbrushes have some kind of needle packing arrangement, though they go by different names, for the reason Tony mentioned. They don't all have a separate seal like that part. On my Iwata brushes it is one part and it is PTFE.


Cheers


Steve

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

Great review and very helpful, I was going to buy yet another tip for my Neo but as this A/B is the same price I think I'll get this for use now with a view to a higher priced one at a later date.


Adrian

[Gern]

I would always advise caution when using cellulose (laquer )thinners through an airbrush if youre not sure of the nature of the seals . Even though if at first it may seem to not have affected them , if they are plain rubber the solvent will have softened and swelled them slightly , causing the needle to become sticky in its action and can even stop it moving altogether if left for a while. This is fairly easily solved by fitting another rubber seal (if you can get one that is!) or replacing the seal with a ptfe one ( the' T 'word) . Im considering replacing the seals on one of my chinese cheapies with these and seeing if it works using cellulose , If it does i'll post up the results , cheers tony

That's exactly what happened to my old cheapo brush. One of the seals swelled up and stopped the air trigger working. No real cause for complaint though, I used it for about 4 years - but then I don't do lots of painting 'cos my build rate is so slow.


I've just bought a H&S Ultra from John but I might give this one a try as the trigger stop seems a useful feature for me. I don't do anything at all fancy, I just want my A/B to put down paint on large areas so this could be advantageous.