About MRP Paint:
These are solvent based acrylic paints designed for the airbrush. It should be noted that they are soon to launch a water based version under the Aqua label. This review is only for the solvent based paints.
These paints are compatable with Gunze Mr Color range and Tamiya paints using a laquer/alcohol based solvent. The colour range is extensive and growing fast and 50 colours are apparently being released in September 2017 and their plans include the release of WW2 Italian and Japanese (IJN/IJA) colours.
The colour range currently includes:
Clears, metalisers and primers
AFV colours for Germany, Israel, Syria, Czech, USSR vehicles
Aircraft colours for all the above countries plus the RAF, Sweden and Ukraine
Included are comprehensive ranges for WW2 combatents, RAF, Luftwaffe, USAAF/USN, USSR plus WW1 aircraft colours.
The paints are airbrush ready - very thin with an almost ink-like consistency and a very fine pigment, much finer than Model Air. They clean up with Mr Levelling Thinner or Mr Tool Cleaner, or i.p.a. or their own thinner.
I recommend that if you need to thin them that you use the Mr Levelling Thinner (MLT) but clean up with i.p.a. because, if you buy it in a large quantity, several litres at a time, from Amazon, you can get it a lot cheaper than MLT. Be careful about storage though and I suggest syphoning it out into 2 litre water bottles for use. https://www.amazon.co.uk/ISOPROPANOL...7KSZ0DKPWG019N
Packaging:
They are in 30ml glass bottles with steel agitators. The agitators are needed as the pigments do settle and need a lot of shaking. Thanks to the glass bottles you can see if the pigment is fully dissolved and also see how much paint is left. The neck of the bottles is quite narrow making pouring easy(ish), I do recommend using disposable pipettes though.
Another tip: I recently obtained 500 pipettes through Amazon at a cost of less than £10, under 2p each. A lot cheaper than buying in smaller quantities, for me a 90% saving on buying small packs.
Another tip: Consider getting, again from Amazon, a bottle shaker to mix the paint. It is well worth the cost as a bottle can be mixed thoroughly while you get on with something else. There is a brand designed for modellers but if you cannot find that then get a 'nail varnish shaker' off Amazon. It works well, yes it costs a few bob and it does have a pink label, but it works and is well worth the cost and getting your leg pulled by the missus....
All colours are clearly labelled and are quite specific to subject which is a great help when deciding what paint to use. Examples include 'red chassis cover for SU27, SU35 and SU37' - yes they are THAT specific.... No confusion with this range.
They are also labelled with RLM, RAL, FS and BS number among others where appropriate.
How do they spray?
I have been using Vallejo Model Air for nearly 6 years now and more recently I have used AKI water based acrylics as well. When I first tried VMA it was a revelation having previously struggled with Humbrol enamels and acrylics. I loved them and they helped me to master the airbrush. But these water based paints do have their problems that are well known.
I am just completing my first build using MRP and from now on I will be using only these. These paints are as big an advance in my airbrushing as it was when I changed to VMA. My confidence with the airbrush has grown and I now feel I can do so much more than I could with VMA.
All the colours I used in my build, RAF Dark Green, Medium Sea Grey, Interior Green, Signal Red, RAF Marking Yellow dried in minutes to a glossy, hard, robust finish. I also used the Black and Yellow primers and these too behaved beautifully, with a 'satin' finish. I also used their Semi Matt, Matt, Gloss and Semi Gloss varnishes.
I sprayed at about 12-15 psi but I recommend that you experiment with your own airbrush to see how best to use them.
They work best if laid down in thin multiple coats with the airbrush relatively close to the model.
If you make a mistake - nil desperandum.... this paint forgives you.
I had no tip drying, no splatter, even after 45 minutes spraying. Even after 8 colour changes....
I cannot wait to do a Luftwaffe mottle - I think I could even manage that night fighter squiggle camo that I could not even consider attempting with VMA.
I once forget to adjust the air pressure and sprayed at 30psi - no problem. Another time I sprayed from too far away so the pigment hit the model dry. Sandpaper finish, not not with these the pigment is just too gine for that, it in fact felt smooth to the touch and I could only see what happened due to it having a matt finish. Tip: if that happens, just spray a light coat, or two if necessary, of Mr Levelling Thinner, it reactivates the paint, smooths and levels it to the glossy finish it should be.
Speaking if finishes - I was astonished at just how smooth this paint felt to the touch. Indeed try that MLT trick and you can get an even smoother, shinier finish.....
In fact the finish is perfect for applying enamel ot water based washes to which it is resistent. No need to gloss varnish for that, or for the decalling. I only gloss varnished to seal in the decals and using the MRP varnish it is very thin and has all the other benefits of this paint.
One thing - try not to flood the surface of a model when you are painting over another colour. The solvent can lift the base colour and ruin the finish. Always use light coats.
What I love about this paint is how thin it is. So much thinner than VMA. It really enhances the detail of a model and it also etches into the surface creating that robust finish. If a paint brings out the detail that means it also bring out imperfections in your build....... Speaking of which:
You can actually see the paint etching the plastic through the paint. This is no problem and not noticable on the inside of a model but on the outer surfaces it is best to lay down a primer coat. Its good practise to do so anyway and you really need to deal with the imperfections in the build before painting. I recommend treating the build as is you are doing a NMF finish.
What about brush painting?
No good at all..... But, you can touch up with a brush if you need to but take care and do this......
Place a drop of the paint into a dish and leave it for a few minutes for most of the solvent to evaporate thickening the paint. Apply it with a small brush, delicately, I do it with a dabbing motion. Do not risk lifting the base coat. Ideally use the airbush to touch up if you can, with localised masking, but for very small touch-ups this method does work.
So what about the cost, they are expensive to buy after all?
There is a big difference between cost and value and we need to look at the cost carefully to judge value.
To purchase I obtained my supply at a cost of £4.89 per bottle and this compares to £2.21 for Vallejo, £2 for Mr Color, £1.75 for Tamiya. But I believe MRP offers significantly better value and a lower long term cost. How come?
MRP bottles are 30 ml, Vallejo 17 ml and Mr Color/Tamiya 10 ml.
This works out at a cost comparision for 30 mls as follows:
MRP £4.89
Vallejo £3.90
Mr Color £6.00
Tamiya £5.26
On that basis only Vallejo is cheaper - but Mr Color and Tamiya need thinning to be airbrush ready so lets do another calculation. Assuming Mr Color is thinned with Mr Levelling Thinner at £10.95 for 400 mls and Tamiya with X20A at £5.39 for 250 mls at a ratio of 50:50 the figures work out as follows.
Airbrush Ready - per 30 mils
Tamiya £2.95
Mr Color £3.41
Vallejo MA £3.90
MRP £4.89
So - that is a fairer comparison and MRP still looks expensive - but what about value...
I do not have experience of Tamiya and Mr Color but I have seen builds with them and I have seen one or two coats of varnish being used prior to washes and decalling. I have used VMA and I know that you really need to lay down two varnish coats before these operations.
You do not need to lay down these gloss varnish coats with MRP. You only need a single sealing coat over the decals.
I will add though that MRP may react to decal softener, this is something I am checking out and will post more about later.
Not needing to apply these varnish coats is a 'hidden' cost saving that I cannot quantify.
In additon, spraying MRP at a low psi in thin coats I found that I am getting better coverage than with VMA, I estimate that I used between 30% and 40% less paint. Another saving that I cannot quantify. In addition, of course, this is very much about the airbrusher as it is the paint. I also do not have the experience with Tamiya or Gunze to compare on this basis.
I am confident, however, that MRP represents a long term cost saving for me compared to VMA.
I therefore would suggest that MRP offers the best value for money.
These are solvent based acrylic paints designed for the airbrush. It should be noted that they are soon to launch a water based version under the Aqua label. This review is only for the solvent based paints.
These paints are compatable with Gunze Mr Color range and Tamiya paints using a laquer/alcohol based solvent. The colour range is extensive and growing fast and 50 colours are apparently being released in September 2017 and their plans include the release of WW2 Italian and Japanese (IJN/IJA) colours.
The colour range currently includes:
Clears, metalisers and primers
AFV colours for Germany, Israel, Syria, Czech, USSR vehicles
Aircraft colours for all the above countries plus the RAF, Sweden and Ukraine
Included are comprehensive ranges for WW2 combatents, RAF, Luftwaffe, USAAF/USN, USSR plus WW1 aircraft colours.
The paints are airbrush ready - very thin with an almost ink-like consistency and a very fine pigment, much finer than Model Air. They clean up with Mr Levelling Thinner or Mr Tool Cleaner, or i.p.a. or their own thinner.
I recommend that if you need to thin them that you use the Mr Levelling Thinner (MLT) but clean up with i.p.a. because, if you buy it in a large quantity, several litres at a time, from Amazon, you can get it a lot cheaper than MLT. Be careful about storage though and I suggest syphoning it out into 2 litre water bottles for use. https://www.amazon.co.uk/ISOPROPANOL...7KSZ0DKPWG019N
Packaging:
They are in 30ml glass bottles with steel agitators. The agitators are needed as the pigments do settle and need a lot of shaking. Thanks to the glass bottles you can see if the pigment is fully dissolved and also see how much paint is left. The neck of the bottles is quite narrow making pouring easy(ish), I do recommend using disposable pipettes though.
Another tip: I recently obtained 500 pipettes through Amazon at a cost of less than £10, under 2p each. A lot cheaper than buying in smaller quantities, for me a 90% saving on buying small packs.
Another tip: Consider getting, again from Amazon, a bottle shaker to mix the paint. It is well worth the cost as a bottle can be mixed thoroughly while you get on with something else. There is a brand designed for modellers but if you cannot find that then get a 'nail varnish shaker' off Amazon. It works well, yes it costs a few bob and it does have a pink label, but it works and is well worth the cost and getting your leg pulled by the missus....
All colours are clearly labelled and are quite specific to subject which is a great help when deciding what paint to use. Examples include 'red chassis cover for SU27, SU35 and SU37' - yes they are THAT specific.... No confusion with this range.
They are also labelled with RLM, RAL, FS and BS number among others where appropriate.
How do they spray?
I have been using Vallejo Model Air for nearly 6 years now and more recently I have used AKI water based acrylics as well. When I first tried VMA it was a revelation having previously struggled with Humbrol enamels and acrylics. I loved them and they helped me to master the airbrush. But these water based paints do have their problems that are well known.
I am just completing my first build using MRP and from now on I will be using only these. These paints are as big an advance in my airbrushing as it was when I changed to VMA. My confidence with the airbrush has grown and I now feel I can do so much more than I could with VMA.
All the colours I used in my build, RAF Dark Green, Medium Sea Grey, Interior Green, Signal Red, RAF Marking Yellow dried in minutes to a glossy, hard, robust finish. I also used the Black and Yellow primers and these too behaved beautifully, with a 'satin' finish. I also used their Semi Matt, Matt, Gloss and Semi Gloss varnishes.
I sprayed at about 12-15 psi but I recommend that you experiment with your own airbrush to see how best to use them.
They work best if laid down in thin multiple coats with the airbrush relatively close to the model.
If you make a mistake - nil desperandum.... this paint forgives you.
I had no tip drying, no splatter, even after 45 minutes spraying. Even after 8 colour changes....
I cannot wait to do a Luftwaffe mottle - I think I could even manage that night fighter squiggle camo that I could not even consider attempting with VMA.
I once forget to adjust the air pressure and sprayed at 30psi - no problem. Another time I sprayed from too far away so the pigment hit the model dry. Sandpaper finish, not not with these the pigment is just too gine for that, it in fact felt smooth to the touch and I could only see what happened due to it having a matt finish. Tip: if that happens, just spray a light coat, or two if necessary, of Mr Levelling Thinner, it reactivates the paint, smooths and levels it to the glossy finish it should be.
Speaking if finishes - I was astonished at just how smooth this paint felt to the touch. Indeed try that MLT trick and you can get an even smoother, shinier finish.....
In fact the finish is perfect for applying enamel ot water based washes to which it is resistent. No need to gloss varnish for that, or for the decalling. I only gloss varnished to seal in the decals and using the MRP varnish it is very thin and has all the other benefits of this paint.
One thing - try not to flood the surface of a model when you are painting over another colour. The solvent can lift the base colour and ruin the finish. Always use light coats.
What I love about this paint is how thin it is. So much thinner than VMA. It really enhances the detail of a model and it also etches into the surface creating that robust finish. If a paint brings out the detail that means it also bring out imperfections in your build....... Speaking of which:
You can actually see the paint etching the plastic through the paint. This is no problem and not noticable on the inside of a model but on the outer surfaces it is best to lay down a primer coat. Its good practise to do so anyway and you really need to deal with the imperfections in the build before painting. I recommend treating the build as is you are doing a NMF finish.
What about brush painting?
No good at all..... But, you can touch up with a brush if you need to but take care and do this......
Place a drop of the paint into a dish and leave it for a few minutes for most of the solvent to evaporate thickening the paint. Apply it with a small brush, delicately, I do it with a dabbing motion. Do not risk lifting the base coat. Ideally use the airbush to touch up if you can, with localised masking, but for very small touch-ups this method does work.
So what about the cost, they are expensive to buy after all?
There is a big difference between cost and value and we need to look at the cost carefully to judge value.
To purchase I obtained my supply at a cost of £4.89 per bottle and this compares to £2.21 for Vallejo, £2 for Mr Color, £1.75 for Tamiya. But I believe MRP offers significantly better value and a lower long term cost. How come?
MRP bottles are 30 ml, Vallejo 17 ml and Mr Color/Tamiya 10 ml.
This works out at a cost comparision for 30 mls as follows:
MRP £4.89
Vallejo £3.90
Mr Color £6.00
Tamiya £5.26
On that basis only Vallejo is cheaper - but Mr Color and Tamiya need thinning to be airbrush ready so lets do another calculation. Assuming Mr Color is thinned with Mr Levelling Thinner at £10.95 for 400 mls and Tamiya with X20A at £5.39 for 250 mls at a ratio of 50:50 the figures work out as follows.
Airbrush Ready - per 30 mils
Tamiya £2.95
Mr Color £3.41
Vallejo MA £3.90
MRP £4.89
So - that is a fairer comparison and MRP still looks expensive - but what about value...
I do not have experience of Tamiya and Mr Color but I have seen builds with them and I have seen one or two coats of varnish being used prior to washes and decalling. I have used VMA and I know that you really need to lay down two varnish coats before these operations.
You do not need to lay down these gloss varnish coats with MRP. You only need a single sealing coat over the decals.
I will add though that MRP may react to decal softener, this is something I am checking out and will post more about later.
Not needing to apply these varnish coats is a 'hidden' cost saving that I cannot quantify.
In additon, spraying MRP at a low psi in thin coats I found that I am getting better coverage than with VMA, I estimate that I used between 30% and 40% less paint. Another saving that I cannot quantify. In addition, of course, this is very much about the airbrusher as it is the paint. I also do not have the experience with Tamiya or Gunze to compare on this basis.
I am confident, however, that MRP represents a long term cost saving for me compared to VMA.
I therefore would suggest that MRP offers the best value for money.
. I noticed in the Flory Rreview, that he mentioned this, which piqued my attention (being an unashamed paint geek!). It's a similar paradox to Tamiya paints, which (the irritating pedant in me) I don't consider acrylic. I'm wondering if there are H&S regs someone is trying to ride above with this nomenclature. Did you get a technical sheet with thes paints? I'm certaily going to get a couple of bottles and have a play, but I worry about the fumes, and as a beardy bloke, most respirators are all but useless
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