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Harder & Steenbeck Infinity CR plus 2 in 1 + Tamiya paint.

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  • Guest

    #1

    Harder & Steenbeck Infinity CR plus 2 in 1 + Tamiya paint.

    Having used a diverse range of airbrushes over the years, I've had a mixed relationship with them! 5 years of making art with a brace of Badger 200 single action brushes - which never gave me any grief, ever - and then, more recently, various airbrushes for modelling - which have given me a fair bit of grief!! This situation was considerably eased, when I bought an SMS single action 0.4mm brush from John earlier this year (review elsewhere on this site). This was all fine and dandy for AFV modelling, but I've recently built a 1/48 Tamiya P47D, and felt the need to lay very thin coats of paint on it, and also free-hand spray the wavy line between olive drab upper and grey underside. Cue lots of watching YouTube videos and reading loads of reviews...
    So, I bought the above, far more than I wanted to spend at the outcome, but as you'll read, it was worth every penny. I've included Tamiya paint in the title, as I feel it is a significant element in my own new-found confidence in spraying. Having watched a fair few vids from Andy's Hobby Headquarters, I was amazed at how he was painting tank wheels and other small elements without masking and free hand. Also, how he never primed a model, and clearly said he's never needed to with Tamiya paints. My P47 was already primed (Stynylrez) when the new brush arrived, but as I was getting to the stage where it was finishing details, I bought a cheap 1/48 Zero to limber up on! Using Andy's thinning technique (adding 20-30% X20a thinners to the new bottle of Tamiya paint), I sprayed the Zeke with IJN Green, straight onto bare plastic, cleaned with X20a, using the 0.15 needl/nozzle set. The first thing to appreciate with this airbrush, is the lack of any drama! Totally well behaved, so, so easy to use, and a perfect finish, and I mean perfect. I used the quick-fix needle stop - which is an adjustable nut at the back, to prevent the needle going any further back than you want it to, whilst still being dual action. Just simply stunning performance, and with this needle plus thinned Tamiya paint, picking stuff out on the sprues becomes a doddle, going back to a bit you might have missed, also a doddle, no drama.
    I've tried the 0.4 nozzle/needle and doubt I'll use it much, unless I gravitate to 1/32 kits, and suspect I'll be buying an 0.2 set before to long, for base coating. Cleaning up afterwards couldn't be easier, no paint gets behind the trigger stage, and using a cleaning pot and a bit of thinners, it's soon squeaky clean and ready for the next colour. At the end of the session, I stripped it down, to make sure, and all it took was a wipe with a cotton bud, and a probe with an inter-dental brush in the nozzle, all clean as a cat's butt!
    Conclusion:
    I love this bit of kit already! Even though it is pricey, once you use it, it all makes sense, and I genuinely believe it'll bolster anyone's confidence in airbrushing, using these paints or, from what Barry W reports, the laquer paints from MRP, it just gets on with the job and is total pleasure to use. I also love Tamiya Paints much more now. I never used to enjoy airbrushing before, just a means to an end, and a shag to clear up afterwards. Not any more!
  • Guest

    #2
    John

    Great review of your new airbrush .

    As you already have the .15mm set up moving to the .2mm is fairly cheap because you only need needle and nozzle. The aircap you are using on the .15mm works with the .2mm nozzle and needle.

    So an upgrade of around £25 rather than £47 depending on were you shop.

    Comment

    • Guest

      #3
      Originally posted by Tony
      John

      Great review of your new airbrush .

      As you already have the .15mm set up moving to the .2mm is fairly cheap because you only need needle and nozzle. The aircap you are using on the .15mm works with the .2mm nozzle and needle.

      So an upgrade of around £25 rather than £47 depending on were you shop.

      https://www.everythingairbrush.com/a...ty-crplus.html
      Thanks Tony, I just had to share! It's not often these days, when something exceeds one's expectations, but this is a true exception. Having painted with it for a few days, I'd even go as far as saying it is a real bargain!

      Comment

      • colin m
        Moderator
        • Dec 2008
        • 8741
        • Colin
        • Stafford, UK

        #4
        And would you believe it, this is the exact AB I'm thinking of buying. I have a Evolution Silverline fPc two in one at the moment which has been great, but it's time to move up a level or two.
        Interesting to read about the Tamiya paints. I'm still using (mainly) Vallejo, but becoming a little less impressed as time goes by.

        Comment

        • Guest

          #5
          Originally posted by colin m
          And would you believe it, this is the exact AB I'm thinking of buying. I have a Evolution Silverline fPc two in one at the moment which has been great, but it's time to move up a level or two.
          Interesting to read about the Tamiya paints. I'm still using (mainly) Vallejo, but becoming a little less impressed as time goes by.
          Well, in truth, I'm not intending to use Vallejo for airbrushing anymore, and if I did, I'd thin them considerably. They don't work well with my H&S Ultra, too much tip drying and clogging. Great for brush panting though, so any AFVs I build will still get brushed!

          Comment

          • Guest

            #6
            Originally posted by John Rixon
            Having used a diverse range of airbrushes over the years, I've had a mixed relationship with them! 5 years of making art with a brace of Badger 200 single action brushes - which never gave me any grief, ever - and then, more recently, various airbrushes for modelling - which have given me a fair bit of grief!! This situation was considerably eased, when I bought an SMS single action 0.4mm brush from John earlier this year (review elsewhere on this site). This was all fine and dandy for AFV modelling, but I've recently built a 1/48 Tamiya P47D, and felt the need to lay very thin coats of paint on it, and also free-hand spray the wavy line between olive drab upper and grey underside. Cue lots of watching YouTube videos and reading loads of reviews...
            So, I bought the above, far more than I wanted to spend at the outcome, but as you'll read, it was worth every penny. I've included Tamiya paint in the title, as I feel it is a significant element in my own new-found confidence in spraying. Having watched a fair few vids from Andy's Hobby Headquarters, I was amazed at how he was painting tank wheels and other small elements without masking and free hand. Also, how he never primed a model, and clearly said he's never needed to with Tamiya paints. My P47 was already primed (Stynylrez) when the new brush arrived, but as I was getting to the stage where it was finishing details, I bought a cheap 1/48 Zero to limber up on! Using Andy's thinning technique (adding 20-30% X20a thinners to the new bottle of Tamiya paint), I sprayed the Zeke with IJN Green, straight onto bare plastic, cleaned with X20a, using the 0.15 needl/nozzle set. The first thing to appreciate with this airbrush, is the lack of any drama! Totally well behaved, so, so easy to use, and a perfect finish, and I mean perfect. I used the quick-fix needle stop - which is an adjustable nut at the back, to prevent the needle going any further back than you want it to, whilst still being dual action. Just simply stunning performance, and with this needle plus thinned Tamiya paint, picking stuff out on the sprues becomes a doddle, going back to a bit you might have missed, also a doddle, no drama.
            I've tried the 0.4 nozzle/needle and doubt I'll use it much, unless I gravitate to 1/32 kits, and suspect I'll be buying an 0.2 set before to long, for base coating. Cleaning up afterwards couldn't be easier, no paint gets behind the trigger stage, and using a cleaning pot and a bit of thinners, it's soon squeaky clean and ready for the next colour. At the end of the session, I stripped it down, to make sure, and all it took was a wipe with a cotton bud, and a probe with an inter-dental brush in the nozzle, all clean as a cat's butt!
            Conclusion:
            I love this bit of kit already! Even though it is pricey, once you use it, it all makes sense, and I genuinely believe it'll bolster anyone's confidence in airbrushing, using these paints or, from what Barry W reports, the laquer paints from MRP, it just gets on with the job and is total pleasure to use. I also love Tamiya Paints much more now. I never used to enjoy airbrushing before, just a means to an end, and a shag to clear up afterwards. Not any more!
            Excellent review John I too recently bought one of these specially for doing fine work.John,what is your preferred spray pressure?

            Comment

            • Guest

              #7
              Well, I used to use about 20-25 for Vallejo, but with the thinned Tamiya, I'm working my way down! The less pressure, the whole process seems easier, the finish is to die for at about 15!

              Comment

              • Guest

                #8
                John, if you want a 0.2mm nozzle and needle for your new Infinity you can use the one from your Ultra as far as I know?! Most H&S bits work in all their airbrushes. (this is what I've read anyway)
                I don't use primer on my models either because all I've tried so far has only given me problems... I'm using black Tamiya as primer instead and then use white for preshading, and then the final coat(s).
                Some colours I add as much thinner as paint and it works great. Tamiya with isopropanol is the easiest paint you can use in my opinion because you can pour it on with a spoon and still the finished model looks great - compared to the overly complex AMMO of Mig I decided to try, or Vallejo which clogs the nozzle...
                I would love to buy an Infinity, and I almost did a couple of weeks ago, but I decided to continue with my Ultra for the time and do the upgrade in the spring perhaps.

                I'd say the only problem I have with using Tamiya XF-69 (Nato Black) as "primer" is that I'm going through 10ml jars in a very rapid pace and I seem to have an almost standing order on those jars... I'm almost ready to try MRP (Mr. Paint) instead only because of the larger bottles they have.
                Currently I'm using a mixer bottle where I add 4x10ml jars of Tamiya XF-69 and 40ml of isopropanol and use that for my ready mixed primer. There's not a lot left after priming my Haunebu II and the MiniArt European Street kit, but it works much better than the primers I've tried - including Tamiyas grey primer, which is too thick for using as common primer imho.
                The biggest benefit of using Tamiya paint as thinner is that it bites into the plastic and it won't scrape off like all the primers I've tried, and the fact that it fully dries in three minutes regardless of humidity, and then you're ready for the next layer - unlike AMMO where I have to wait sometimes up to three days before it's dried... I want to paint when I feel like it and the creativity flows and having to stop for 24h or more has killed the paintjob on some of my models. I honestly don't understand why Mig Jimenez is making his paint so cumbersome to use but perhaps it dries faster in Spain than it does here further up north?

                Comment

                • Guest

                  #9
                  Yes, I'd heard that they were the same nozzles and needles too, found it a bit hard to believe at first, as I had loads of clog action with the Ultra, but that was using Model Air! I guess it stands to reason that thinner paint is gonna be better for airbrushes, but they can't really make Model Air any thinner, as it would have very poor coverage. Keeping my lungs healthy is a big issue for me, as I said in the first thread on "new acquisitions", I feel I've used up my quota of lung abuse already. However, with a tiny nozzle and 15 psi, there's nowhere near as much overspray, and I'm using so much less paint per run! Pre-shading is going to be a breeze, hey, I may even try a mottle camo now!!

                  Comment

                  • Guest

                    #10
                    Often I just spray into a big cardboard box and not a proper, filtered and fan assisted one, and as long as the paint has something to "land" on I don't notice anything from the paint at all, and since I do all of my modelling in bed - including painting - I don't worry about Tamiya paint. (as long as I've got some sort of box to spray into.
                    Initially I was using cellulose thinner instead of iso and it gave me headaches similar to when breathing in too much MEK, but iso smells even less than proper acrylics - which I think smells worse.

                    I think (and this is thinks, not knows) Tamiya paint is less dangerous to the lunges because it sticks to surfaces much better than pure acrylics due to it being iso based. There's zero paint dust after using Tamiya paint and I can promise there's a fair bit of paint dust after using AMMO.

                    I'm using the cheapest of the cheapest plastic compressor from Sparmax wich hardly pushes 15 psi although it says 20 on the box and sometimes I actually wish I could turn the pressure down, so you using 15 psi is just a proof that this is the way to go. Spraying base coat/primer is a different thing though and I wish I had a 0.6mm or larger nozzle for this, but it works with a 0.2mm too - just takes a lot longer time...

                    Since you can limit/set both air pressure and paint volume with your new H&S Infinity you should be able to do a mottle camo with little to no effort now!

                    Comment

                    • Guest

                      #11
                      Hah! I've just found something the Infinity doesn't like...
                      Vallejo "Metal Varnish" acrylic gloss coat for their new Metal acrylics - grrrrrr. (Reason I even tried it was because I've just had my first ever problem with Humbrol Clear, post-decal stage). The airbrush sprayed it fine for about 20 seconds, then I detected a slow down of paint flow, so I quickly stripped it and cleaned the dirty stuff out. I accept its a small nozzle, but the varnish is pretty watery. That's it, no more Vallejo!
                      This, of course leaves me with a quest for some foolproof gloss coat for pre and post-decal stages. bugger!

                      Comment

                      • Guest

                        #12
                        0.15mm nozzle is a wee bit small for metal acrylics I think... Try your 0.4mm nozzle instead.
                        That is if the "metal varnish" has any metallic compounds in it?
                        You can try Tamiya X-22 or X-35 for glossy/half-glossy varnish and XF-86 for flat.

                        I'm using Vallejo varnish in my airbrush but it's a bit temperamental, that I'd admit, with my 0.2mm nozzle.

                        Comment

                        • Mr Bowcat
                          SMF OG
                          • Dec 2016
                          • 4600
                          • Bob
                          • London

                          #13
                          Originally posted by John Rixon

                          This, of course leaves me with a quest for some foolproof gloss coat for pre and post-decal stages. bugger!
                          Winsor & Newton Galeria.
                          Si vis pacem, para bellum.

                          Comment

                          • Guest

                            #14
                            How do you thin that Bob?

                            Comment

                            • Mr Bowcat
                              SMF OG
                              • Dec 2016
                              • 4600
                              • Bob
                              • London

                              #15
                              I don't.

                              Give it a good shake and straight into the colour cup. Admittedly I do tend to use the .4 needle, but have used it with the .2 as well.
                              Si vis pacem, para bellum.

                              Comment

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