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Vinyl Masking Sucess

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  • Guest

    #1

    Vinyl Masking Sucess

    I had a difficult job trying to mask the bomber’s nose on a Mosquito 1/48 which is oval. Had to be right as it is the first thing you see, the nose of the model. One problem is that the masking line is oval but also the nose piece is rounded as a marble. IE you are negotiating the tape on differing planes.

    Tried Tamiya Tape cut to a very thin width of .5mm. Tried stretching as I applied the tape but always got crinkles at intervals around inside edge (the paint edge) This is the oval shape of the frame separating the flat piece from the rounded oval area. Cut the crinkled parts so they overlapped & burnished down but the paint result was horrible. Washed the whole lot off.

    Eventually used some vinyl tape

    Vinyl Masking - Model Boats

    Negotiated the oval shape with a piece of this vinyl tape on each side of the oval. Slightly stretching as applying. Used the .5mm width tape & the tape is very thin which is probably why it can negotiate curves well. No crinkly bits as the Tamiya Tape. Burnished although I doubt it needed it. Applied 2 coats of acrylic paint by hand brush & removed vinyl tape after 30 mins & the result was perfect . Not a sign of any paint creep at all or the paint pulling away with the tape. No need for any remedial attention.

    Think that perhaps the paint sticks in the minute pores of the Tamiya tape whereas it cannot with the vinyl. Also the vinyl tape stuck fast where already fixed when stretching but find the Tamiya tape moves. The vinyl is much easier to cut.

    The vinyl being transparent has advantages & disadvantages. You can see if you have overlapped a frame line. But it is more difficult to see the vinyl edge compared to Tamiya Tape. You do need a magnifier of some sort & good lighting. But the disadvantages do outway the results which is what counts.

    Widths sizes in the pack I have - 0.5mm , 1mm , 1.5mm , 2mm , 2.5mm , 3mm , 4mm & 5mm. More than 4 metres of each width so just about a life times use for canopies etc.

    Laurie
  • Guest

    #2
    Hi Laurie,

    I just joined today, and already you have shown me a potential solution to the dreaded masking of cockpit glass ! I am just starting the Revell 1:32 Ju88, so the timing was perfect.

    Thanks

    Graham

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    • papa 695
      Moderator
      • May 2011
      • 22770

      #3
      Will get me some of that thanks Laurie

      Comment

      • AlanG
        • Dec 2008
        • 6296

        #4
        Is that the same sort of thing as Frisket?

        Frisket Masking Film Rolls - Airbrush Accessories - ArtiFolk for Discount Art Materials, Art Supplies, Graphics Supplies and Crafts

        Comment

        • BarryW
          SMF Supporters
          • Jul 2011
          • 6012

          #5
          Twice now I have used canopy masks and both times an utter failure.


          No problems masking up at all, worked well but removing the masks is another matter.



          Both times the paint on the frames came away as well.



          The first time I thought I had sprayed the paint too thick, with gloss and matt varnish as well as two coats of paint and did not prime.



          Second time I cleaned the canopies with alcohol to remove any grease, primed with Vallejo primer (mixed with a little dark green to get a colour approx to cockpit green) then the camo top coat (two coats). All the paint was Vallejo Air. It was left to dry for several days before I tried removing the masks and yet the paint came away from the transparencies. I even tried running a sharp blade around the inside of the frames (a bit gingerly I admit!).



          So what is the secret? What am I doing wrong?



          Help please. I have bought masks for all my stash and at the moment I can only see wasted cash!!!

          Comment

          • Guest

            #6
            Allyne "Is that the same sort of thing as Frisket". My instant answer was no. But then I cut a narrow piece of Frisket & tried it. Works quite well & very similar to the one I mention above. But the Frisket seems thicker & does not negotiate around curves as well also Frisket does not seem to be as sticky. The vinyl masking is also cut into the strips & all you have to do is pick up the end with a sharp knife.

            Barry I have only so far used a brush & also painted off model. But after reading Steve's (Stona) advice this is the first model I have painted (airbrushed) with the canopy fixed.

            I think that perhaps to many coats of paint Barry. Until now I have only used two coats hand brushed & using Vallejo Model not air & with out primer. Think probably the more coats the thicker the film which makes it difficult to release. Also I have taken off the tape within 24 hours. A bit of paint drag in a couple of places but easily removed. After saying this certainly not an expert but slowly improving. Hoping the present canopy on the model will look better airbrushed but stupidly I primed the whole model & left the canopy, which is all masked up, frames exposed which are now primed. Hoping the edges will not show this when exposed.

            Laurie

            Comment

            • AlanG
              • Dec 2008
              • 6296

              #7
              Many thanks for the reply Laurie. Might have to get myself some of this to try out

              Comment

              • Guest

                #8
                Spray a thin 'hot mix' of mostly lacquer thinner and primer or interior color ,this will bite into the plastic.
                Practise on sprue until you get the hottest mix possible.
                Spray as thin color coats as possible , but not too many.
                Pull the tape off 'back' on itself if that makes sense.
                Pulling 'up' allows the paint removal problem to happen.

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